Cooling fans

S

SCOTT H

New member
What are you guys running for electric cooling fans??, And how did you mount them, IE, how close to the raditor?
I just installed a new Champion 3 core a few days ago. Cools really great without a clutch fan/shrould assembly right now. My 345(that I rebuilt years ago) has always ran 5/10 cooler than the t-stat.
I'm wanting to get away from the clutch fan/shroud set up. But in traffic I'll need something flowing air. Didn't like what Champion offered on the web site. I have a few 17 inch electric fans on hand.
 

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Your best to keep your mechanical fan with clutch. A electric fan will not flow as much CFM as you think that mechanical one does.
 
Zaedster said:
Your best to keep your mechanical fan with clutch. A electric fan will not flow as much CFM as you think that mechanical one does.
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While I would agree with you, the fan I'm going to use has an air flow rating the same as a 40 mph drive. My clutch fan, that that I would rather use "taps" the fan shrould at full throttle, 5700. I am using RPT engine/trans mounts, so no real flex, maybe a 16/th.
Going to go to an electric fan, see how it works.
Thanks for the input!
 
A 40mph drive isn't directly relative to engine RPM's and direct fan clutch lock up circumstances. We have heavier duty fan clutches to increase the lock up ratio for hotter climates. I hear this story 2 times a week with people talking about their over-heating problems. Nothing beats a mechanical belt-driven fan with proper shrouding.
 
Zaedster said:
A 40mph drive isn't directly relative to engine RPM's and direct fan clutch lock up circumstances. We have heavier duty fan clutches to increase the lock up ratio for hotter climates. I hear this story 2 times a week with people talking about their over-heating problems. Nothing beats a mechanical belt-driven fan with proper shrouding.
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I saw that in the parts section, (I'm in northern indiana)but the issue is not over heating, just running way hot at idle, IE 220. I've drove it a bit with no fan with the new rad, only got to to 190 after 20 minutes at idle, it was an 85 degree humid day.
As soon as I went down the road it went to 168ish at the t stat housing(160 t stat, new, old stock). The issue is it's that the fan hitting the shrould at times. Borrowed a cig butt from a friend. You can see the blade scrapes. It's super tight. Had no issues with a fan hitting with running the 4 core ever. Both rads are the same dimensions to the 16/th.
?? What am I missing here?
Can you post the length from the water pump mounting to the front of the fan clutch fins or something to that effect? What I'm running on my 73 is the same as my Traveler(79), I can put my thumb between the fan blade to the should on the Traveler?
 

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an idea... i run this fan clutch, it puts the fan back toward the water pump more then your clutch. hayden 2947
but you got to watch your belts, make sure they are tight if they flop around they nick the fan

Low Profile Fan Clutch

www.haydenauto.com www.haydenauto.com
 
I'm using this clutch with a Chevy 6 blade fan on my '74 Scout with no issues. In fact I made the hardest pull in the nation, from Death valley to the summet at 7100' pulling a 18' rv trailer with no heating issues at all. You'll need the 4 bolt water pump if you're still using the "Big Nut" pump.
Hayden® 2797 - Severe Duty Thermal Engine Cooling Fan Clutch ​
​


Chevy P-Series 1993, Severe Duty Thermal Engine Cooling Fan Clutch (2797) by Hayden®. Rotation: Standard. Hayden Automotive engineers, manufactures and supplies a wide range of products designed...​
 
int77345 said:
an idea... i run this fan clutch, it puts the fan back toward the water pump more then your clutch. hayden 2947
but you got to watch your belts, make sure they are tight if they flop around they nick the fan

Low Profile Fan Clutch

www.haydenauto.com www.haydenauto.com
Click to expand...
I looked into that. Put's the fan way too close the the belt's than I happy with, but thanks for the post/replay.
 
FDChappie said:
I'm using this clutch with a Chevy 6 blade fan on my '74 Scout with no issues. In fact I made the hardest pull in the nation, from Death valley to the summet at 7100' pulling a 18' rv trailer with no heating issues at all. You'll need the 4 bolt water pump if you're still using the "Big Nut" pump.
Hayden® 2797 - Severe Duty Thermal Engine Cooling Fan Clutch ​
​


Chevy P-Series 1993, Severe Duty Thermal Engine Cooling Fan Clutch (2797) by Hayden®. Rotation: Standard. Hayden Automotive engineers, manufactures and supplies a wide range of products designed...​
Click to expand...
I looked at this as well. It will not fit the rad I am running now, but thanks anyway.
 
I'm going to run the stock set up this week end going the IH show in Ft Wayne, ind.
I've been driving it on and off this past week without any issues, so far.
168/172 out of the t stat housing, 105 back in.
It was 89 with 90% humidy the other day, temp was as I stated above, stayed at that, at idle(600), in gear for an hour.
 
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SCOTT H said:
What are you guys running for electric cooling fans??, And how did you mount them, IE, how close to the raditor?
I just installed a new Champion 3 core a few days ago. Cools really great without a clutch fan/shrould assembly right now. My 345(that I rebuilt years ago) has always ran 5/10 cooler than the t-stat.
I'm wanting to get away from the clutch fan/shroud set up. But in traffic I'll need something flowing air. Didn't like what Champion offered on the web site. I have a few 17 inch electric fans on hand.
Click to expand...
I see this is an old post but I am having similar issues with my fan contacting the shroud when using the Champion radiator. I am not running a clutch with my mechanical fan (my scout came that way). If you run clutch, does it offset the fan back toward the water pump giving better clearance?
 
int77345 said:
the shroud can be shimmed up..... my shroud is shimmed down because of a body lift....
Click to expand...
This is probably what I need to do. As a matter of fact, I had to shim it down a bit with the old radiator as the new body bushings seem to add some lift. Same with this new radiator but I noticed the top of the new radiator is ~3" deep where the old (original) radiator is ~2 3/4" so now the fan is right up against the top part of the shroud that goes against the top of the radiator itself. I guess I am going to have to trim that out so the fan will clear? I hate cutting things up to make everything work which is why is was curious if the fan clutch somehow allows you to set the fan back some giving more clearance. I will try to get a picture and post later.
 
i can only make a guess. i see there is a spacer in-between your fan and water pump. you could take a rough measurement of that and compare it it the clutch measurements

have you ever measured your fan ? ever wonder if that is the correct fan for a scout ?

i have the same radiator and i to went years with a "fixed " fan (no clutch) and i never took a bite out of my shroud and i do a ton of 4 wheeling. once slammed a rock so hard i broke the radiator. but the fan and shroud never made contact even when that happened.
 
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