WTB leaf springs for a 73' 1210 4 door 2X4 pickup

That would be great...the leaf I need measures 46" center of hole to center of hole...& 2.5" wide according to m.m.
 
the length should be the same and you could add a leaf or two if needed but I would think you should be alright without any added I could measure them up tomorrow if you like.ed

Based on visuals, I believe the main leaf to be the same spring "rate" for the 1110 and 1210. The key visual is the cross-section of the leaf (comparison) and any "taper" (and where the taper begins) of the thickness of the spring material. The spring "rate" for the entire assembly (spring pack) is determined then by the same material properties of each additional leaf and how they are stepped.

And... Because there were several "option" spring sets for each model vehicle (1110 vs.1210), an 1110 could easily be found that has a much higher spring rate than a 1210. That is why having a lineset for this old shit is so important to "know" what the equipment is. Major different in that regard compared with GM/dodge/Ford stuff of that era.

And spring rate (as called out in the lineset) has nothing to do with the axle weight rating which is also a great variable in the IH world.

The 4x4 spring sets for the front are also an "offset" design. That means the center pin hole is not equidistant between the eyes. I believe the 2x4 springs are symmetrical. And that center pin location determines how the axle is "centered" between the hangers.

I know this is alotta verbage just for a dam main leaf...but since it's not a simple matter to just say "I need a leaf for a 3/4 ton", if all the parameters are not exactly the same as the spring that is still mounted, then the trickledown after paying big shipping bucks can be a bitch! Re-drilling the center hole position is not a big deal (sometimes), but many times a crack will be seen in the original center hole of a main leaf but it's been hidden.
 
Sorry got super busy today and totally spaced measuring the springs I will do it for sure tomorrow ed
 
based on visuals, I believe the main leaf to be the same spring "rate" for the 1110 and 1210. The key visual is the cross-section of the leaf (comparison) and any "taper" (and where the taper begins) of the thickness of the spring material. The spring "rate" for the entire assembly (spring pack) is determined then by the same material properties of each additional leaf and how they are stepped.

And... Because there were several "option" spring sets for each model vehicle (1110 vs.1210), an 1110 could easily be found that has a much higher spring rate than a 1210. That is why having a lineset for this old shit is so important to "know" what the equipment is. Major different in that regard compared with GM/dodge/Ford stuff of that era.

And spring rate (as called out in the lineset) has nothing to do with the axle weight rating which is also a great variable in the IH world.

The 4x4 spring sets for the front are also an "offset" design. That means the center pin hole is not equidistant between the eyes. I believe the 2x4 springs are symmetrical. And that center pin location determines how the axle is "centered" between the hangers.

I know this is alotta verbage just for a dam main leaf...but since it's not a simple matter to just say "I need a leaf for a 3/4 ton", if all the parameters are not exactly the same as the spring that is still mounted, then the trickledown after paying big shipping bucks can be a bitch! Re-drilling the center hole position is not a big deal (sometimes), but many times a crack will be seen in the original center hole of a main leaf but it's been hidden.

That is quite a mouthful...but leave it to IH to cause all this...just for a main leaf...lol.

So if ed's Travelall is 4x4 then you are saying it is pointless for him to bother with measuring?

What if his was a 2x4??? Then I could just change all 4 main leafs and keep the existing spring pack on the new mains & all should be well in spring rate conformity?

I think I'm beginning to lose myself amongst all this...:out:
 
sorry got super busy today and totally spaced measuring the springs I will do it for sure tomorrow ed

Not a problem sir...seeing as how I am gettin a good schoolin on leaf spring technology in the IH world of the 70's...learn something new everyday.

Thanks,

jarrett
 
To use any ihc 4x4 front spring set, your axle will shift "forward" due to the non-centered pin location, and the spring is shorter eye-to-eye. Also, you will have to remove and relocate the spring mounts at the swing-shackle end (rear) to the other mount location. There are two positions punched into the frame rail on each side, the front hole set is for 4x4, the rear hole set is for 2x4.

The shackle-end bushing mount is riveted into the frame, the rivets must be removed and then the mount moved and bolted in using grade 8 hardware.

The easiest deal would be...simply go back to your original idea, find a boneyard/donor 1210 2x4 front spring and either use the entire assembly or rob the main leaf and use it to build up a spring that is identical to the other side. This would all be bolt-on stuff though ti's not a fun type of project!

Our club meeting is tomorrow night, I'll see what I can do about finding a spring amongst the vast unwashed group of members that will be there!
 
to use any ihc 4x4 front spring set, your axle will shift "forward" due to the non-centered pin location, and the spring is shorter eye-to-eye. Also, you will have to remove and relocate the spring mounts at the swing-shackle end (rear) to the other mount location. There are two positions punched into the frame rail on each side, the front hole set is for 4x4, the rear hole set is for 2x4.

The shackle-end bushing mount is riveted into the frame, the rivets must be removed and then the mount moved and bolted in using grade 8 hardware.

The easiest deal would be...simply go back to your original idea, find a boneyard/donor 1210 2x4 front spring and either use the entire assembly or rob the main leaf and use it to build up a spring that is identical to the other side. This would all be bolt-on stuff though ti's not a fun type of project!

Our club meeting is tomorrow night, I'll see what I can do about finding a spring amongst the vast unwashed group of members that will be there!

Wow...I guess my original plan does sound like the best plan @ this point in time...although im not above buying some 3/4 ton 2.5" wide main leafs and just cutting and rewelding some new perches.

But now it sounds like I May have a buyer for the truck so I am not in dire need of a main leaf asap....but buyers do regularly back out of car deals...and if it doesnt sell I definately want to fix it up. So feel free to keep digging in the dirt for a leaf for me but don't drop everything to find one right now...

Thanks
 
Just got home late night doin family things but measuring these unsprung they are about 44 3/4 but trying to measure around the arch as close as I can tell they look like about 46 so they should work perfect if you decide you need them let me know we can work out something in the mean time I'm pretty sure their not going anywhere ed
 
just got home late night doin family things but measuring these unsprung they are about 44 3/4 but trying to measure around the arch as close as I can tell they look like about 46 so they should work perfect if you decide you need them let me know we can work out something in the mean time I'm pretty sure their not going anywhere ed

Thanks for the update...as soon as I figure out what this guy is going to do I will let you know either way.
 
J,
I'm picking up a 68 travelette this Sunday and it's a 1200 2x4. Should fit as it's the same frame up through '73. It's got an fa-10 front axle in it. Not sure what shipping to tx from norcal would be on them. $150 plus shipping fair for a matching set of fronts? I'll be on a tight schedule next week while I'm visiting from hawaii and working on these rigs so let me know or shoot me an offer as soon as you can. Planning to pull the axles out of it Monday.

John
 
Back
Top