Anyone had problems with valve tappet noise after a complete overhaul of a 152. The cam was reground and new cam bearing installed. New lifters were soaked and put under vacuum to remove any air. Original push rods were reused as well as the rocker arm assembly. After initial startup the valve tappet noise was there. I ran it about 20 minutes and the noise was still there. Removed the valve cover and ran the motor again for another 20 minutes.The valve tappet noise was coming from the #1 cylinder intake and exhaust valves and never quit. Thought maybe I had a couple of bad lifters so bought new ones and replaced them on the #1cylinder. The lifters I took out looked good and cam lobes were fine. Also checked for oil and it appeared ok. After installing the new lifter I still had the same valve tappet noise? Has anyone experienced this problem? I have heard when you have a re ground cam you could lose some lifter preload ??? Help!
Valve tappet noise on a rebuilt 152
- Thread starter keith11
- Start date
The deck was not resurfaced. After disassembly of the head and valves it appeared that the head had been reconditioned recently in the past but not sure if the head was resurfaced. After cleaning all the valves and seats, valve guides and head surface flatness looked good. Lapped the valves and reassembled the head. A top end gasket set witch included the head gasket was purchased through NAPA.
Yes a new head gasket was installed from NAPA. Don’t understand why just a couple of valves if the base circle was changed during regrind,
Do you know if they make an adjustable push rod that may be used?
FDChappie
Well-known member
Negative on the adjustable push rods, except for measuring the length. Zaedster is probably on track, the stock steel shim gaskets are .016" and the new composite gaskets are around .040", that plus the regrind might have needed to grind more off those lobes.
Another option is a set of adjustable roller rockers. But that's expensive.
Before you spend more $$$ check to see if the lifters are pumped up by pressing down on a rocker arm. If the lifter "squishes out" it's a bad lifter.
Another option is a set of adjustable roller rockers. But that's expensive.
Before you spend more $$$ check to see if the lifters are pumped up by pressing down on a rocker arm. If the lifter "squishes out" it's a bad lifter.
The lifters are fine. What you guys have mentioned about the new head gasket thickness plus the regrind makes sense. We have decided to measure pushrod length with the proper preload and have custom pushrods made to make up lost preload.
I really appreciate all the advise!!