TravelAll window motor

Geez, all this hot rod talk caused me to pull a book off the shelf and look at it -- the American hot rod by dean batchelor (an auto mag article writer for many years (decades?).

Funny, the cars do not look as purty as the pictures of the restored cars that robertk posted....
 
I been busy since last post. Both you guys reccommended that I check voltage at motor, I did and it was 8.9v
the pics showed how I corrected the voltage issue. I left the original switch and wireing, they operate 2 relays and 1 solenoid. I added a 6ga circuit to the solenoid, the solenoid supplies the field winding for the magnet at the same time it feed the 'up' relay and the 'down' relay. I made this weather resistant and mounted it on a plate that I bolted in near the rear bumper. I just now completed the connection and ...the window goes up and down like crazy. Woohoo. You guys are the best.
I included pics but not smart enough to label them. You'll figure it out. Thanks again, oj
 

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Shit man, fab two more relay sets, put a blue top optima back there too, and ya kin make the side winders go up and down like a hip-hopper!

Nice workaround, no doubt that concept is how these under-ampacity IH rolling electrical fireballs shoulda been done from the git-go!

Don't go lookin' for any more relays on these junkers...only the horn had one! But iirc, that rear winder uppee/downee switch is a 50 amp version but the wiring is only good for about 8 amps in that long a run.

"some" of the rigs with factory a/c also hadda add-on relay for the compressor...but not all.
 
Appreciate your work oj. I have the same problem with my 67. And, like you, I was thinking it was the preload on the spring. I wasn't sure how I would get any more preload on it without something snapping. I had my motor rebuilt as well.

I had spoken with mayben before about rebuilding the circuit using relays. I will copy your solution.

Thanks.
 
The entire window regulator mechanism should be cleaned and then lubricated with a grease product applied by hand to all friction points.

Then treat the window guides (the "felts") with a spray silicone lubricant product made for that purpose.
 
I am looking for a cut off switch for my 1975 Travelall rear window. They had one on travelallparts.com but then found they were sold out.
Also when we push the up and down switch it only works in the up and down position with help. Also we are looking for a motor and a regulator. It looks the same in the picture posted.
We took the cut out switch out and hot wired it and the motor gets electricity and works but the motor still doesn't allow anything to run. Anyone get this problem resolved let me know on your end. I have taken a photo of the motor and can post it if anyone is interested.
 
After talking about the tailgate window problem for a couple years here, I decided to try to just increase the voltage to the window motor by running a 8 ga wire from the 'hot' on the starter back to connect 'with' the original hot wire for the window motor, to increase the available voltage and amperage. I also changed the 'inside' rubber wiper at the top of the gate opening by turning it upside down = (l). By turning the inner rubber, most of the resistance of trying to lift or lower the metal window frame through the small gap is eliminated.
While the mechanism was accessable, I cleaned and re-lubed the gears with the white grease and where the arms slid past each other.
I didn't use relays or solenoids. Couldn't figure how to make it work that way. Other than bringing the additional power back for the tailgate motor connection, I didn't change anything.
The tailgate motor can raise and lower the glass by itself now.
Bill bennett 68 Travelall
 
An update, I recently did more work on that '67 Travelall and tried the rear window and it still works fine.
If I can figure how to draw a schemtic I'll post it here.
 
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