Travelall fuel tanks and fuel manifold switch

That Guy

That Guy

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I just got around to rebuilding the carb on my Travelall so it wouldn't spray gas all over the engine when it ran.

As I was running it and checking for leaks, it ran out of gas. I checked the right tank and it's so full it was coming out of the fill hose when I disconnected it from the fill tube. I couldn't get to the rear tank because of the crap in the back. I'm assuming that's the one that's empty.

It seems that the switch on the dash just switches which tank the gauge is reading. Left tank shows empty and right tank shows less than 1/4.

I remember seeing a pic of the fuel manifold behind the right front tire here but my searches came up empty.
Anyone know how that switch is supposed to work what could be the cause of emptying one tank and not drawing from the other?

And who has replacement parts for it (o rings, gaskets)?
 
The fuel selector valve is located on the rear of the front inner pass fender ("d" series 69 & up). It May be "behind" a "bakelite" cover though it is doubtful that it is still there.

Pull the knob on the dash (cable) out to run off the pass side (front) tank. Push it in to run off the rear tank.

Assuming that the cable is not broken / still connected to the valve.

Turn the knob to the left for the rear tank / right for the front tank - gas gauge - as you have found out.

Ihon sells / stocks refurbished selector valves.

For whatever reason, the owner's manual states to use the pass side / front tank first.
 
Yup you need to rebuild your valve when they fail on t-alls the rear tank will drain into the front tank since it is mounted higher.
 
We have a new stock of reconditioned tank selector valves on the shelf now. The same valve fits all pickall applications all the way back into the earliest models though the brass transition fittings screwed into the ports on the valve did change over the years which includes the specials used for the nylon fuel plumbing tubing used on some applications.

So...a reconditioned valve does not include the three transition fittings, you simply move your oem fittings (after cleaning) to the replacement valve keeping the fittings/ports in the correct order as marked on the valve body. Either teflon tape or teflon-base pipe dope is used on threads as they are tapered pipe thread form.

This is a "before" shot of a typical selector valve that has been in service (and internally bypassing) for many years and is the basis for the reconditioned items we offer. These items are not shown in the online store at this time, ya have to call us to order.
 

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    Pickall selector valve.jpg
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Thanks eric, that's good to know. Does that mean it's definitely bad/leaking or will it do that if the lever is left in the middle or some other reason?

Can I rebuild this one? Are the o-rings common sizes?
 
I use a proprietary metric "o" ring (two different diameters and cross-sections) to recondition the valves we have available. Those are sourced in large quantities and the material used is certainly resistant to the fuel used today.

The gaskets are hand-cut from the proper material in batches of twenty at a time.

We don't sell the individual parts for diy at this time.

A major amount of cleaning/prep work goes along with this process.
 
What's the charge to recondition mine then? Or do you only sell the ones you have and take mine as a core?
 
that guy said:
what's the charge to recondition mine then? Or do you only sell the ones you have and take mine as a core?
Click to expand...

The "exchange" price is $45 with a $45 core charge. Outright purchase for the reconditioned valve (no core return) would be $90.

Cost to recondition your existing valve would thus be the same as for an exchange part, $45.

Shipping would be about $12.

Call ihon at 530.268.0864 to order, he's standing by! More reconditioned valves will be shipped down in two weeks. I always carry a spare in each of my rigs, they are good for about ten years between rebuilds, I had two of 'em at the rallye last weekend!
 
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