Took off the valve covers...oh boy...

Whats the best way to clean out the lifters? I need to clean the where the push rod and the lifter meet. Any ideas? There is just some dirty oil and crap in them. I tried using a vacum but that didnt work. Im trying to get a picture up but something is up with my camera. Thanks

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One at a time, remove and invert the lifter and shoot it off with carb or brake cleaner till hte crap is washed off. Don't blast the little hole on the side if possible..

Check the cam and wear face for any obvious damage while you have it out.

Blow off with air, reoil and replace into its respective bore. If you have any grease, grease the lifter face too.
 
I use a strong telescoping magnet (1/2 diameter). They sell a lifter extraction tool and most autoparts stores but I don't own one.. Can't tell you why but I have always gotten by without.
You can sometimes hook the retainer groove/undercut with a right angle pick or similar..
 
sr2dude said:
nice, thanks. Whats the best way ot get the lifter out? Is there a special tool I need to get?
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If the lifters won't pull straight up using a strong magnet, then slather 'em with berryman's chemtool or walmart house brand carb cleaner. That will help break down the varnish, it takes much patience and working with 'em continuously to get 'em free. That motor is a worst case situation for varnish!

Even with continuous soaking in solvent, I bet you will end up having to use a "lifter popper" tool to extract more than one! I don't waste time trying to do the solvent extraction multiple times, I do it once and then go for the tool!
 

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I have noticed that when I blow the lifters with compressed air, oil sometimes sprays our of the little hole on the side. Do I need to put more oil back in somehow or will that take care of itself when the engine is running? Or should I not worry about it?
 
sr2dude said:
I have noticed that when I blow the lifters with compressed air, oil sometimes sprays our of the little hole on the side. Do I need to put more oil back in somehow or will that take care of itself when the engine is running? Or should I not worry about it?
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From Robert kenney's reply above:

one at a time, remove and invert the lifter and shoot it off with carb or brake cleaner till hte crap is washed off. Don't blast the little hole on the side if possible..

Blow off with air,

reoil

and replace into its respective bore. If you have any grease, grease the lifter face too.
........

place the (one) lifter in a pan of oil (standing up / covered with oil) -- it May help to push down on the lifter with a push rod a few times though I do not know if that is recommended for IH lifters .

I think michael / Robert have posted the "technique" somewhere here in this sub forum .

you need to keep your (used) lifters in order, so that they go back in the same place / bore in the block that they came out of -- iirc ...

with a new cam / lifters, you could put them all in the same pan at the same time.
 
Pre pumping lifters in not necessary but not forbiden either. Many builders do it. I for one do not. I oil the outside with engine oil and grease the face with a moly cam lube/grease.

Before you start the engine again you will have gone through the prelubing routine and that will take care of any needed oiling.
 
Thank you to everyone who has helped me with my project thus far! Now for my re assembly questions!

Do the rocker arms have a specific side they go on or does it not matter? I feel like that is a stupid question but I cant really tell.

And how much do I torque down the 4 bolts on the exhaust manifold?

Thanks in advance guys!
 
sr2dude said:
thank you to everyone who has helped me with my project thus far! Now for my re assembly questions!

Do the rocker arms have a specific side they go on or does it not matter? I feel like that is a stupid question but I cant really tell.

And how much do I torque down the 4 bolts on the exhaust manifold?

Thanks in advance guys!
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If the rocker assembly is correctly assembled in parts-order, and the oiler stands are in the correct position on the shaft to align with the oil ports on each cylinder head, then they are completely interchangeable side-to-side. That means that an appropriate oiler stand is in proper sequence in relation to all the other stands/variations.

Only one single rocker stand serves as to direct oil to the rocker shaft on each side, the rocker stand then floods with oil to supply each rocker arm, valve tip, and pushrod socket on the entire assembly.

Exhaust manifold bolt torque for all positions is the standard callout for a "lubricated" (with anti-seize), grade 8 fastener is 14>16ft./lbs.
 
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