To inject...or not?

T

Tracy72RN

Member
I've posted on a couple places about getting the timing and fueling right on our '74 Scout II 345.

This was going to be a fun toy/weekend warrior for the wife but her new car (literally 15 days old) was totaled last Saturday. She and our daughter are fine. Honda builds a fine machine.

Anyway...the Scout will be her back and forth rig to work as well as if/when I am away for work she will use it to take the kids to school. Chances are it will only amount to around 100 miles a week on a busy week.

It has a new (remanned) carb on it but I am not sure yet if it is the right one. So I know I have to time it, check/adjust/or maybe swap the carb and do a full tune up on it.

So I am wondering if going ahead and just buying a full TBI setup would be in our best interest or should I try to get it running better as is and see how well it does?

The engine has a bottom end rebuild less than 2 years ago and was not used for daily driving since. It runs strong and at above idle rpm's runs smooth and quiet and seems to have plenty of power. It just doesn't idle right and stutters at lower rpm's while accelerating.

We do plan to add ac before next summer rolls around but can wait as we're gradually getting into milder weather here in fl. I only went through one shirt with sweat today instead of 4.

Any input is appreciated.

1974 Scout II 345/t-18/d20/d-30/44 with ~4" of lift and 33's.
 
Efi turns the standard IH into more of a modern vehicle like the honda you lost.
Put the key in no matter what time of year, tuen the key, start and drive. No choke, no warm up required except to heat the seat.

I've been running it and teaching others to convert for the last 12+ years.
The carb I will run is if the value of the vehicle would decrease by converting it. But since I can convert without harming the original vehicle...I convert all mine.

I also provide the efi systems for Jeff now so I'm just a little biased.

I figure if you are asking the question then you have probably already made up your mind and just want someone to confirm it for you.
You obviously have decided your tired of the current carb issues and are looking for something better....well this is it.
 
That's pretty much where I'm at.

I'm not worried about the value of the vehicle so much so as the day to day reliability and more so the ease of use. We really don't have much in it and once it's 'done' (they're never done are they? ) we probably won't have more than $6k in it including what we paid for it.

My cj5 is carb'd but it runs well enough that for 3 years I've just let it alone...but I plan to inject it at some point as well.

I just don't want to put $500+ into the Scout and then end up spending another $1500 to buy a kit to inject it anyway. I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I am guessing the installation would not be that tough...my only real concern would be getting the distributor in right and then of course the initial timing/tuning.
 
I think there is a sticky about getting started.

Fwiw, going FI means you need to take the time to learn a bit about the whole process. It takes a couple hours to install a complete system, but it could take a couple weeks to get your chip dialed in. Most that run FI, also burn there own chips as its just easier then asking somebody else to do it. The burner, software, chips, cable, etc will cost about $150
I have mine setup so I can swap a chip in 2 seconds, as its installed in a zif socket, like a cpu chip is. This made it super simple to swap a chip. I ran 2 chips, one in the truck and one on the burner. The only cost $5 a chip. This made it easy to dial in the tuning.

But there is plenty of help, when you have questions:thumbsup:
 
That's normally what I point out to people, by the time you upgrade the carb and the ignition to something better than stock you might as well update both with the efi for just a little more.

My kits come with a 26 page installation manual with pictures. It also includes the data logging cable and the software to log data. The computer is alread set up for your engine so it will start and run fine right from the start. But I like to fine tune the computer to your engine and your location so the computer does not have to make very much adjustment to the baseline tune. That way when you head to 14k ft in co the system can still adjust for it.

You will need to run at least one new fuel line since the system uses a feed and a return line for the fuel system. It's all in the installation manual.

A 3/8" steel brake line and some hose and clamps to connect it to the pump and the throttle body is about all you will need that is not in the kit.


The system only has 4 wires to connect. The rest is bolt-on and plug and play.

Once installed and running you will need to have the o2 sensor bung(included) welded on the exhaust pipe so the system can adjust itself.

It's as simple as I could make it for the avg Joe/jane.

Then when you decide how much you like it, I can fix you up with a system for your cj.
 
The carbs on both my '71 with the 2300 series and '74 2210 series will do this if there is any water in the gas. A shot of carb cleaner down each bore while running will quickly tell you which one is running lean. Usually an italian tune up will fix them (wide open throttle up a steep hill) unless there is a lot of water in the fuel. A bit of denatured alcohol down the vent into the fuel bowl can help too. The 2210 on my Scout is the original one and works well when in tune. But I know carbs way better than FI so I tend to stick to what I know. Kind of ironic since I'm a software developer by trade.
 
bill usn-1 said:
that's normally what I point out to people, by the time you upgrade the carb and the ignition to something better than stock you might as well update both with the efi for just a little more.

My kits come with a 26 page installation manual with pictures. It also includes the data logging cable and the software to log data. The computer is alread set up for your engine so it will start and run fine right from the start. But I like to fine tune the computer to your engine and your location so the computer does not have to make very much adjustment to the baseline tune. That way when you head to 14k ft in co the system can still adjust for it.

You will need to run at least one new fuel line since the system uses a feed and a return line for the fuel system. It's all in the installation manual.

A 3/8" steel brake line and some hose and clamps to connect it to the pump and the throttle body is about all you will need that is not in the kit.


The system only has 4 wires to connect. The rest is bolt-on and plug and play.

Once installed and running you will need to have the o2 sensor bung(included) welded on the exhaust pipe so the system can adjust itself.

It's as simple as I could make it for the avg Joe/jane.

Then when you decide how much you like it, I can fix you up with a system for your cj.
Click to expand...

Oh I know I will like it in the Scout. On the cj though...I May wait until a 401 comes my way...inject that and toss it in. It's fairly fast and scary with the 304 but the 401 would just be silly in a rig that only weighs 3000# and only has an 83" wheelbase!! :icon_biggrin:
 
I did figure out (I think) that I have the correct 2300 series carb on it...which is the remanned 'new' carb that the po put on...but never tuned.

Tuning it (which I am new to) will be a different story. I am hoping to get it tuned well enough to be driven until after Christmas and then go for the injection.

I am about 99% sure we will be putting injection on it.

I did get a timing light yesterday so if I can get it running halfway decent before TBI...without blowing a lot of money...that will be all the better.
 
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