Switchable Dual Batteries

I've got it running like it's supposed to! It was actually a simple fix. The issue was that I had two white wires on the middle left post, and one white and one green on the middle right. I noticed that the diameter of two of the white wires were the same so I paired the matching white wires with the green wire on the middle right post and left the thicker white wire on the middle left post. Now everything works the way it should.

Thanks for the help guys and best of luck on your own projects!
 
Glad to here that blueblur! It's a good feeling getting it to work and you have the confidence of not needing a jump. Are you planning a winch install also?
Ron
 
Actually ron it came with an older model 6k warn winch...in fact it had electrical goodies ranging from an onboard air compressor, aux lights, power seat, sound system. I'm sure there's more that I'm not remembering. All of it along with the ignition were running off of one deep cycle marine battery, and they had used the speaker amp as a fuse box to run the accessories :mad2:

so within the first few weeks I replaced the battery to get the cold cranking amps I was looking for and removed everything else not necessary to run the truck. Now I'm picking through hoping to get all the cool accessories I hacked out wired up and running properly.

Speaking of running properly I could use some more advice. I have been driving the Scout on and off the last couple of weeks and last night I notice my alternator was smoking. After putting it out I drove home and noticed my alt gauge was bottomed out (ie no charge) and by the time I got home my headlights were getting dim. I think it's the original alternator and from what my friends figured it was just the alt not being able to handle the juice. I'm skeptical because whether it's battery 1, 2 or both the meter still reads 12v, but they were convinced this was the culprit. Either way I need a new alternator but I'm hoping to get some advice before burning up another perfectly good part.
 
Well without an alternator there is not much to test other than the batteries, charge them up and have them tested either a good parts store or gas station that still does service work. They can bring the tester right out to the Scout and test.
But when you get an alternator you can test the charging circuit, starting with batt voltage with the Scout off then again with it running and check both batteries that way.
You should see 12.5vdc without the truck running and approx. 14.5vdc with it running, again you should see it on both batts.
Also your stock amp gauge should read just like normal when you batt switch is in the stock or batt a position, but if you switch to batt b you dash amp guage will show some discharge but the stock amp guage does not work in the batt b position.
You can do amp readings also but you will need a volt meter that reads dc amps.

Now having said all that did you notice any over-charging before the alt started smoking? I have seen my system go it to an over charging situation just a couple of times since I install the dual batt system. As near as I can tell it is the batt isolator sticking (for a lack of a better term) when it happens I turn the batt switch to off and ground the posts on the isolator just for a second, turn every thing back on and its fine. Just fyi and my install was back in 2010 so this issue has not been a big concern, but I do watch my amp guage a little more than I used to.

Ron
 
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I tried testing the batteries with a multimeter when I first installed and they were running within normal vdc parameters. During the drive I noticed the alternator gauge's needle was bottomed out to the left and the battery was slowly being drained, but this was about 15-20 minutes in. I pulled the alternator and brought it to my local kragen yesterday where they bench tested it and it seems to be dead.

I didn't explicitly notice over charging but I didn't notice the problem until after I had been driving for awhile. The only thing I can think of is that I screwed up and was running both batteries the entire drive. Normally I only do that if it's having a tough start and then switch to one. While it runs around 12vdc on both batteries the amperage May have been more than the tired old alternator could handle.

Now that I know I have to replace it I May as well upgrade...hopefully my issue is the dual battery set up demanding more amperage than the alternator could handle. Of course kragen only had 37-68 amp models (which I think they had 70 from the factory?) but they were able to recommend a place in town that rebuilds alternators to better than stock specs. Thanks again for the help and I'll report back once I know more...hopefully by the time this is all squared away the electrical will the most solid feature of the truck.
 
I didn't explicitly notice over charging but I didn't notice the problem until after I had been driving for awhile. The only thing I can think of is that I screwed up and was running both batteries the entire drive. Normally I only do that if it's having a tough start and then switch to one. While it runs around 12vdc on both batteries the amperage May have been more than the tired old alternator could handle.
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Running with both batt's should not have caused the problem. With a battery isolator both batteries are always being charged. The isolator prevents the system from from drawing the charge from one batt to the other when switching.
If I were to have a starting problem and I pulled my engine batt down, then switched to both batts the dead battery can not pull power out of you winch batt. It prevents the inrush of current from one battery to the other which can cause battery damage.
As I said the alternator is always charging both batteries no matter where your batt switch is set. I have had not problems running off of the stock 63amp alternator with my system.

Ron
 
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