Suspension woes

[tonyp]

I just got the 5 shackle kit and we spent Friday night putting it on the truck and it looks great. Gave me the little lift I needed. Problem was I waited for a "friend with more knowledge" to help me put in the 4 degree shims, needless to say my questions are:
"they go on the front axle with the fat end to the back ?" truck feels a bit loose.
Secondly SOA or spring for a suspension lift ?

Pro's and cons of each, figured I would ask here as I get several different answers from non Scout owners and suspension is not my thing. Thanks in advance.... By the way its a 72 Scout 2 bone stock so far... 345 engine and automatic. http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/images/smilies/idea.gif

 

[Michael Mayben]

I'd say it feels loose!!!

Kinda hard ta keep it pointed straight huh tony??

The fat end of the tapered shim/wedge goes forward. Idea is to roll the top of the ball joint/axle/yoke "kingpin inclination" rearward at the top. That provides a decent amount of "effective" positive caster which vastly improves straight ahead stability and will now cause the steering wheel to have a "self-centering" action when recovering from a turn...just like a "normal" vehicle!

This suspension/steering stuff is all about geometry.

I run the 5 degree wedges with five inch shackles on my s80 with a closed knuckle front axle that also is set up at zero degree kingpin inclination/caster oem... Idea behind that was to make the steering feel "light" without incorporating power steering back in the day. Makes a tremendous difference in straight ahead stability on the road.

The only other way to effect significant steering and alignment changes is to dismantle the front axle, and either cut and trun the "c" ends on the axle in an accurate manner, and or/ use offset ball joint cams in the top location along with camber wedges behind the spindles. That means ya gotta have the front wheel alignment checked/recorded before starting the work, then make a plan for the alignment numbers ya wanna end up with, and then perform the various service operations to achieve the numbers.

For a mostly street-driven rig with a mild lift, what you have done along with a set of "lift springs", and keeping it spring under/stock position will be the least amount of work/expense.

Here's a nice little primer regarding suspension/steering alignment and terminology that is an easy read:

caster, camber, toe

 

[tonyp]

Thanks alot , I am going to pass this on to my friend as well. Looks like I got a little more rework to do. Thanks again.