Stuck Disdributor

jerryinid

New member
In a previous post michael mayben described a methology that he uses to free a stuck/frozen distributor. I did a search but could not find that post. Could you please repost because me and mt pita distributor are at a stand still. In a previous life,40 plus years ago, I remember using a tool that was shaped like a fork, but it was mostly used on big block fords as alwys appreciate any and all help.
Jerry
 
Depends upon "which" distributor is stuck! The cast iron Holley and delco units usually don't end up in this condition since both the materials are cast iron!

It's the aluminum distributors (Holley, prestolite, and in some cases lucas) that seem to grow to the block due to the reactive nature of aluminum, cast iron, grunge, and water over the years.

I was visiting a wholesale engine core supplier in the portland area just today and we talked about this! They have the same problem when stripping out IH sv and mv engines they purchase in bulk from around the country for breakdown into core parts!

The supplier has the advantage of the engine being on a pallet and the distributor is easily accessible. Turns out their methodology is the same as mine...plenty of pbblaster and patience! They do not want to risk damaging any core part off these engines since that is how they generate their income...and have been doing so for over seventy years! A destroyed Holley distributor has no value as a core if it is damaged even only cosmetically.

In extreme cases, what I do is douche the entire distributor base area with your penetrant weapon of choice, then using a very light hammer, start "tapping" around the lower portion of the distributor body, the vibrations from the tapping action aid in lubricant penetration. Do this several times.

The next step (if needed), is to strip any thing flammable back from the distributor area, and then use a heat gun (preferable) to really warm the boss of the block where the distributor penetrates with the idea of expanding the cast iron just a touch to allow the penetrant to work better. If a heat gun is not handy, then I use a oxy/acetylene rig with the smallest tip I have as a heat source. And playing the heat on the distributor body below the upper portion helps also.

The last resort...I rig a bearing separator on the distributor body, with a cross arm puller attachment and a slide hammer. Sometimes the distributor will then pop right out...sometimes you will whack on it until the distributor is destroyed...it'sa 50/50 chance so be willing to deal with the consequences!

You mentioned a technique for dealing with fords...I can remember using a "rolling head" prybar on those occasionally in the old days. I haven't tried that on an IH sv...but I think the Ford (at least the fe motors) have much more room for inserting the prybar than an IH sv.
 
And here is the rest of the story. It is cast iron (magnet test) and the part number is 359221-c91. The engine is a 392 out of a donor loadstar and is currently sitting in the frame with out intake manifold and water pump. Heads will be rmoved this weekend and the engine put on a stand for clean up and evaluation. Access to the distrbutor is as good as it gets so let the fun begin. Am I correct in assuming that this is a long time consumming process? Not that it matters, but time is all we really have. Thanks again for the advice, always appreciated. As a side note, being a pack rat I probable have sone residue in my shop from "tin can beach" if you are interested. Lol. Jerry
 
If ya go to this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/642-ihc-vehicle-distributor-identification.html

And review post #3, you will most likely see your distributor, since it's a loadstar, then most likely has a governor system.

Same thread, post #5 shows the other possibility, a delco unit, identifiable by the window in the cap for access to the breaker point adjustment and the classic "oiler".

Since it's cast iron, and you have access, try a pipe wrench on the lower portion of the body to work it back and forth...or...a "chain" wrench if ya have one.
 
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