steering arms
- Thread starter 1hc72
- Start date
Mark Ashford
Member
Those draglinks (proper name) on the pickups are one piece. Without replaceable ends.
I *think* you might still be able to get them new, but I have not looked. Try some decent parts houses/truck supply houses in your area and see what they can come up with. Navistar dealer in your area May be a lost cause, or a big help.
Light line might still have them nos. A call to IH only or IH Parts America and Jeff or Mike should be able to tell you what they know. Or a call to super Scout specialties, the head of the light line.
Or you can make a replacement. Drill and tap some dom tubing (or weld-in inserts) and some correct sized tie-rod-ends (tre). Iirc the trucks used the same diameter taper as scouts, so you could use the es150r and es150l tre's available at just about any parts house.
I *think* you might still be able to get them new, but I have not looked. Try some decent parts houses/truck supply houses in your area and see what they can come up with. Navistar dealer in your area May be a lost cause, or a big help.
Light line might still have them nos. A call to IH only or IH Parts America and Jeff or Mike should be able to tell you what they know. Or a call to super Scout specialties, the head of the light line.
Or you can make a replacement. Drill and tap some dom tubing (or weld-in inserts) and some correct sized tie-rod-ends (tre). Iirc the trucks used the same diameter taper as scouts, so you could use the es150r and es150l tre's available at just about any parts house.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
That part is referred to as a "drag link".
What is "broken" about it?
It is a one-piece forged component with a tapered stud ball joint swedged into each end in order to allow it to self-align as it moves through it's range of motion.
It must be greased with a grease gun periodically, some of those are sealed though and have no grease port. The ball ends on the oem part are not replaceable, the entire drag link must be replaced if it fails.
What you see in the gap there is the rubber seal boot with the drag link itself moved down.
When that item fails, either the connection ball/stud becomes extremely loose in it's socket (allowing much steering slop), the stud actually shears, or the ball comes out of the socket indicating extreme wear/lack of maintenance.
What is "broken" about it?
It is a one-piece forged component with a tapered stud ball joint swedged into each end in order to allow it to self-align as it moves through it's range of motion.
It must be greased with a grease gun periodically, some of those are sealed though and have no grease port. The ball ends on the oem part are not replaceable, the entire drag link must be replaced if it fails.
What you see in the gap there is the rubber seal boot with the drag link itself moved down.
When that item fails, either the connection ball/stud becomes extremely loose in it's socket (allowing much steering slop), the stud actually shears, or the ball comes out of the socket indicating extreme wear/lack of maintenance.
As popped out, do you mean the ball / stud broke out of the "housing"?
If so, you are going to have to get someone to make one for you -- suspension / spring shop? Probably using the correct strength metal tube with tie rod ends.
According to rock auto, the moog ds916 you refer to is for a
fa-46 (4wd) / axle code 02046 (on the LST) -- not your 2wd (another reason to have a copy of your LST.)
for IH, you need to pay attention to the "details" -- there are many "variations" of axles / steering between 2wd / 4wd; 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, 1 ton; and "standard" / heavy duty... Not to mention all the "swap-outs" over the years...
If so, you are going to have to get someone to make one for you -- suspension / spring shop? Probably using the correct strength metal tube with tie rod ends.
According to rock auto, the moog ds916 you refer to is for a
fa-46 (4wd) / axle code 02046 (on the LST) -- not your 2wd (another reason to have a copy of your LST.)
for IH, you need to pay attention to the "details" -- there are many "variations" of axles / steering between 2wd / 4wd; 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton, 1 ton; and "standard" / heavy duty... Not to mention all the "swap-outs" over the years...
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Replace it with a new service part!
The actual aftermarket part number depends upon the "brand" of the part (such as moog, delco, etc.). You will also need to know the steering axle IH code.
I have this tierod available under the CPT label. It is not listed on our website but retails for $125. It is made from threaded dom so its extra heavy duty compared to stock and adjustable which also means the ends are replaceable.
It should. Can you post a picture of the entire draglink just to make sure? Also I need a measurement from center of tre to center of tre.
You have me confused as to what you want. Is it a pitman arm that you need or a draglink? If it's the draglink I need a picture of it and a measurement on how long it is from center of tre to center of tre.
Attached are a picture of the draglink and pitman arm on my 1210 t/a.
Jeff want the measurement between the "arrows" (zirc fittings) of your drag link.
Since the parts book shows a different draglink for the two front (2wd) axles - standard (fa-1) and hd (fa-12); you should measure your own draglink.
If the ball stud is broken, I hope you are not driving the vehicle.
Hth
Jeff want the measurement between the "arrows" (zirc fittings) of your drag link.
Since the parts book shows a different draglink for the two front (2wd) axles - standard (fa-1) and hd (fa-12); you should measure your own draglink.
If the ball stud is broken, I hope you are not driving the vehicle.
Hth
Attachments
Mark Ashford
Member
Something not right.
None of your pictures show a failed part.
If you can still turn one way, but not the other, you don't have a broken draglink or rod-end, if they were broken you would have no connection between the pitman arm and the steering arm on the knuckle.
Even if it was bent/bending, that would be oposite of the condition you are reporting. We are all missing something here.
Wait, I thought about it again, had to think on the pick-up push/pull steering. To turn left the pitman arm would be pulling on the dl, to turn right the dl would be in compression. I suspect the dl is bending, so when you turn left it straitens, when you turn right it bends. If the rod-end joints were failing, they would pop out in both directions.
Call Jeff, talk with him in person. Buy the dl he offered above. Sounds like you need it either way.
None of your pictures show a failed part.
If you can still turn one way, but not the other, you don't have a broken draglink or rod-end, if they were broken you would have no connection between the pitman arm and the steering arm on the knuckle.
Even if it was bent/bending, that would be oposite of the condition you are reporting. We are all missing something here.
Wait, I thought about it again, had to think on the pick-up push/pull steering. To turn left the pitman arm would be pulling on the dl, to turn right the dl would be in compression. I suspect the dl is bending, so when you turn left it straitens, when you turn right it bends. If the rod-end joints were failing, they would pop out in both directions.
Call Jeff, talk with him in person. Buy the dl he offered above. Sounds like you need it either way.