starting in cold weather

73intscout

73intscout

New member
I have a 73 Scout II with 345 v8. I have noticed that it takes much longer to start in cold weather especially in the morning. However when its warm outside or once the engine warms up, it starts right away every time.

I was wondering if this is a common problem or something I should be worried about. Thanks in advance,

-tj
 
Welcome to ihon tj!!

What you describe is not a common problem when these vehicles are properly maintained. In fact, if the ignition system, battery/starting system, and the carburetion is in good shape, a single pump of the throttle pedal will allow the choke to "set" and give it an accel pump shot. Then it should light off instantly and settle into fast idle mode, no stalling, etc.. Initial warmup should allow drive-off in under five minutes. But...these rigs a re not modern computer-control efi in that regard, they do require some warm-up time, even if the ambient temps are in the 80's and greater!

But we need much more information regarding your particular setup, complete with pics of the top of the engine with the air cleaner removed so we can id whatcha got and determine if the rig has the dreaded "po virus"!! Let's not speculate on what "could" need attention, that just confuses the issue and wastes time and effort using the shotgun approach!

We deal with stuff like this constantly around here and the vast majority of the time, the root issue is lack of maintenance over time! That is why this stuff is called a "project"!!

Post the details, we'll point ya the right direction!
 
Mm has hit the nail on the top of the head once again.

These old 'binders are not computer controlled so they need more attention to details.

If everything is the way they are supposed to be your rig should start and run the first time, every time. But if it doesn't there are so many variables that unless you can set a baseline there isn't any quick way to "solve" your problem.

Good luck.
 
As michael stated, more info is required...

Also, your definition of cold weather (where you live) -- some people do not think that 30 degrees is cold... ( I do anymore, lol)

and, your definition of a "long time" -- 10 / 20 revolutions or more?

Based on your description, my t/a starts the way your Scout does, but I live in the sf bay area...

Here, push the pedal once, turn the key and it starts.... Out in the desert / mtns when it is colder in the morning (30's), it takes a few cranks to start.

I have always thought it was the choke (some chokes used to have summer / winter "notches" / "settings")

but, since the t/a only "sees the cold" a few times a year, I leave the choke alone (I am also lazy...).
 
michael mayben said:
welcome to ihon tj!!

What you describe is not a common problem when these vehicles are properly maintained. In fact, if the ignition system, battery/starting system, and the carburetion is in good shape, a single pump of the throttle pedal will allow the choke to "set" and give it an accel pump shot. Then it should light off instantly and settle into fast idle mode, no stalling, etc.. Initial warmup should allow drive-off in under five minutes. But...these rigs a re not modern computer-control efi in that regard, they do require some warm-up time, even if the ambient temps are in the 80's and greater!

But we need much more information regarding your particular setup, complete with pics of the top of the engine with the air cleaner removed so we can id whatcha got and determine if the rig has the dreaded "po virus"!! Let's not speculate on what "could" need attention, that just confuses the issue and wastes time and effort using the shotgun approach!

We deal with stuff like this constantly around here and the vast majority of the time, the root issue is lack of maintenance over time! That is why this stuff is called a "project"!!

Post the details, we'll point ya the right direction!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, ill get some pictures up once it stops raining. Im in southern California and its supposed to rain all week. I just bought the Scout 2 weeks ago so its a work in progress. You guys seem to know alot about these trucks so I think I found the perfect sorce for my project. It runs great it just has issues when its cold.
Ill try pumping the gas a few more times.

Is there any way I can test the choke or adjust it? I am not entirely familiar with this engine yet. Its the 345 v8 with 2brl carb. Thanks again!



robertc said:
as michael stated, more info is required...

Also, your definition of cold weather (where you live) -- some people do not think that 30 degrees is cold... ( I do anymore, lol)

and, your definition of a "long time" -- 10 / 20 revolutions or more?

Based on your description, my t/a starts the way your Scout does, but I live in the sf bay area...

Here, push the pedal once, turn the key and it starts.... Out in the desert / mtns when it is colder in the morning (30's), it takes a few cranks to start.

I have always thought it was the choke (some chokes used to have summer / winter "notches" / "settings")

but, since the t/a only "sees the cold" a few times a year, I leave the choke alone (I am also lazy...).
Click to expand...

Im in southern California and its around 50 and thats cold for here. But once the engine is warm or when its warm out it starts right up. Ill have to take some pictures and post them so you guys can see what im working with. Thanks
 
Ambient temperature should have nothing to do with "cold start".

That is assuming that fresh (two week shelf-life these days) fuel with no moisture content is present throughout the fuel system,...the battery is fully charged and in serviceable condition with adequate reserve capacity for the application,...and the oil viscosity installed is appropriate for the general climatic conditions where the vehicle is being operated on a regular basis.

Engine cranking speed after cold-soak (in the industry we use a minimum cold-soak time of six hours at ambient) is critical for any engine. If anything impedes the cranking speed, the fuel pump can't supply fuel to the carb in an adequate manner without an extended cranking period. And voltage drop through the ignition system can be a deciding factor as to if the system can produce an adequate spark at the correct time, most especially in the case of oem electronic ignition systems.

"cold" starting conditions after cold-soak always involve the use of some sort of functional choke system...even at an ambient of 95*f.

That said,...for gasoline-fueled/carbureted engines such as these that are operated at continuous ambients of say 0*f and lower, they will need a somewhat lower viscosity engine oil installed, a "heater" of some sort for the battery, and a "heater" for the engine coolant. And by all means, a functional engine cooling system thermostat of the proper setpoint.

We need detail here before we can start on any analysis!
 
Well I think the problem was as simple as I wasnt setting the choke all the way. This morning, after letting it sit all night, I made sure I pushed the pedal once all the way to the floor and then cranked it and it started right up ideling at higher rpm's like it should so I think the problem was me.

I will try it again tomorrow morning as it is parked for the night and report back.

Either way ill get some pictures up as soon as the rain stops this weekend. Thanks for all your help/knowlege. I believe this is the perfect place to help me along with me project. I already love this truck and I have only had it a couple weeks.

Thanks again guys,

-tj
 
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I fully understand your environmental/climatic conditions, I spent seven really loooong years living on the sand at huntington beach through the 90's!

Most folks today have never owned or driven a carbureted vehicle! They have no idea what the starting procedure is if the entire engine system is original and functional and has been maintained. In the case of this 30+ year old IH stuff, very few we deal with around here have had any sort of regular maintenance! Just the fact that yours does start and run is a big deal!

As you gain more familiarity with the rig you will look back on this and be amazed at what you have learned,...so definitely stick with us! It takes old folks to train young folks on how to deal with old stuff!

The "fast idle" rpm for that rig when properly adjusted will give ya a nominal 1400rpm. Do not be concerned with that, that is normal!

The only parallels ya can draw between old iron and modern fuel-injected throwaway vehicles is that they both burn gasoline, both have oil in the crankcase, and both have air in the tires! The old stuff takes skill to own and operate, the "new" stuff is designed to be operated by ken and barbie's offspring or nancy pelosi on one of her good days.
 
michael mayben said:
I fully understand your environmental/climatic conditions, I spent seven really loooong years living on the sand at huntington beach through the 90's!

Most folks today have never owned or driven a carbureted vehicle! They have no idea what the starting procedure is if the entire engine system is original and functional and has been maintained. In the case of this 30+ year old IH stuff, very few we deal with around here have had any sort of regular maintenance! Just the fact that yours does start and run is a big deal!

As you gain more familiarity with the rig you will look back on this and be amazed at what you have learned,...so definitely stick with us! It takes old folks to train young folks on how to deal with old stuff!

The "fast idle" rpm for that rig when properly adjusted will give ya a nominal 1400rpm. Do not be concerned with that, that is normal!

The only parallels ya can draw between old iron and modern fuel-injected throwaway vehicles is that they both burn gasoline, both have oil in the crankcase, and both have air in the tires! The old stuff takes skill to own and operate, the "new" stuff is designed to be operated by ken and barbie's offspring or nancy pelosi on one of her good days.
Click to expand...

Hahaha well thanks for the advice, I am definatly new when it comes to carb'd engines. Trying to add to my car knowledge. Youll be seeing alot more of me. Its only just started for this truck.

Thanks again for the help,

-tj
 
lyle wiese said:
don't be so sure Mike. The last set of tires I bought came with a green valve stem cap. Nitrogen filled. :icon_wink:

lyle
Click to expand...

Don't git me started about that crap!!!

Green valve caps...,that's so when the obamabots drive down the street undercover and "shoot" your tires with the laser "inflationary gas pressure detector", they know not to waste time shooting real tires on real vehicles with real air in 'em. That would skew their data kinda like "jobs created/saved".

Have ya noticed that green prius crusin' up and down s. Waldo at 2ayem every morning, the inflation police are watching your valve stem caps, so you can receive that "reminder" email from obamaessiah hizownself to "nitro up".
 
michael mayben said:
don't git me started about that crap!!!

Green valve caps...,that's so when the obamabots drive down the street undercover and "shoot" your tires with the laser "inflationary gas pressure detector", they know not to waste time shooting real tires on real vehicles with real air in 'em. That would skew their data kinda like "jobs created/saved".

Have ya noticed that green prius crusin' up and down s. Waldo at 2ayem every morning, the inflation police are watching your valve stem caps, so you can receive that "reminder" email from obamaessiah hizownself to "nitro up".
Click to expand...

2ayem???? Nope, not me. Not at that hour. Ok, I won't get you started.


(looks like I already have. Sorry.)

lyle
 
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