Shifter Removal

Caperodder

Member
Hello folks,

trying to remove the single stick shifter arm from my 71 Scout II/345. Some things just aren't adding up for me. Looking at the shop manual, there appears to be a pin, (has a zerk fitting on the end of it), that holds the arm in place. However, I can't get it to budge, and if it did, it doesn't seem that there is enough clearance between the zerk and the trans tunnel. I don't want to just start prying on things. Can anyone give me a clue?

Thanks,

-brett
 

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With all the dirt and grime ya got up there, it's no wonder that pin isn't moving. You might be able to very carefully use vise grips on the pin to rotate the pin and work it out.

There is no room to pull the pin all the way out as you can see how close it is to the transmission tunnel. About the only way is to use a floor jack holding the transfer case up, then unbolt the transmission crossmember from the frame. Only then would you be able to lower the transfer case just low enough to pull that pin out. Don't lower all the way down. The motor mounts will hold up the engine while you're lowering the transfercase.
 
Dirt and grime? Where?

This is actually the cleanest part of the bottom of this Scout. Getting a total frame off resto, and I'm pulling the motor and trans today. In some places the grime is inches thick. Good news is, no rust.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm trying to get his done by this evening and didn't want to break anything.

Have a great holiday.

-brett
 
Well, I have removed the crossmember, and dropped the rear of the tranny down below the tunnel. The vice grips still won't budge the pivot pin. So I'm wondering, if I remove the yoke, and the five bolts that hold on the front output shaft retainer plate, can I remove the entire sub-assembly? Will the shift bars come out with it, or stay in the transfer case?

Never tore one of these down.

Thanks,

-brett
 
Allot of the time, you can whole saw a hole thru the tunnel and remove the zerk, then insert bolt of the correct thread into the pin. This gives you a bit more leverage to play with and the bolt will not break as easy as the zerk. Just make sure you find a rubber grommet/hole cover that will fit the whole size first. Whatever you put for flooring will keep it hidden afterwards.

Why don’t you just unbolt the transfer case off the transmission if this is a frame off resto? You wouldn’t need to remove shifter and could work on it on the bench.
 
Why don’t you just unbolt the transfer case off the transmission if this is a frame off resto? You wouldn’t need to remove shifter and could work on it on the bench.

The shifter has to be removed in order to slide the transfer case back far enough to clear the transmission output shaft.

Don't really wanna pull off that cover plate at this stage. More of a headache than it's worth while the transfer case is still in the rig. And the shift rails are too long for the cover to clear the transmission.

Over the years with out maintenance, that pin can get frozen in its place. May have created enough rust to hold it in place. Spray some lube in there and try moving the shifter as you work the pin to rotate. One of the holes int that cover plate, that holds the pin has a slight taper to it. If you can, try prying the very tip of the pin(oposite end of the zerk fitting). Not sure if you had done it already, but try taking the trans tunnel cover off and work at that pin from inside the cab.
 
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