Scout just died on the road!

R

Richard

Member
77 SII, 345, 2bbl, 4 speed, D44 front and back with TracLocks, headers, pertronix II with matching coil. Pretty stock.

I just finished putting my 77 SII together (dash wire harness). All wiring is good everything works like it is supposed to. I've driven it several times up and down the road over the last two months (with the dash all apart) and it ran just fine. After putting everything together yesterday, I took it for a drive, got about 1/2 mile, and Scout died! I thought maybe it was old gas, no. It is getting gas and I tried starting fluid, but nothing. It cranks over, kinda wants to start, then nothing.
I then turned my attention to the coil, touched it, and it burned my finger! I pulled the center coil wire to see if there was any spark, but nothing. very, very hot to touch. towed it back home with my traveler, let the Scout II sit for a couple of hours, went back out, and boom - it started right away!!

So, my question is: what are the signs of a coil going bad? bad coil? or, what am I missing/overlooking?
 
Richard said:
77 SII, 345, 2bbl, 4 speed, D44 front and back with TracLocks, headers, pertronix II with matching coil. Pretty stock.

I just finished putting my 77 SII together (dash wire harness). All wiring is good everything works like it is supposed to. I've driven it several times up and down the road over the last two months (with the dash all apart) and it ran just fine. After putting everything together yesterday, I took it for a drive, got about 1/2 mile, and Scout died! I thought maybe it was old gas, no. It is getting gas and I tried starting fluid, but nothing. It cranks over, kinda wants to start, then nothing.
I then turned my attention to the coil, touched it, and it burned my finger! I pulled the center coil wire to see if there was any spark, but nothing. very, very hot to touch. towed it back home with my traveler, let the Scout II sit for a couple of hours, went back out, and boom - it started right away!!

So, my question is: what are the signs of a coil going bad? bad coil? or, what am I missing/overlooking?
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I have the pretty much the exact same issue on my 1979 Scout II 345. I replaced my coil and condenser, but that's not the issue. Fuel is not the issue, as I tried starting fluid as well. I'm going to replace my points next....I guess they could be getting hot and failing when hot. I can't figure out what else would make the coil hot. Voltage to the coil is fine. Let me know if you figure out your issue.
 
Well, I have a Pertronix II with the matching coil in my 77. I swapped out the coil and it seems to run just fine. I've never had a coil go out on me so I kinda was stumped. Good luck with your ride. However, if you have a 79, you probably have a Prestolite distributor. I've heard that the internal module goes out sometimes. I changed my Prestolite to a Pertronix and have never looked back.
 
Raleigh Rallye said:
I have the pretty much the exact same issue on my 1979 Scout II 345. I replaced my coil and condenser, but that's not the issue. Fuel is not the issue, as I tried starting fluid as well. I'm going to replace my points next....I guess they could be getting hot and failing when hot. I can't figure out what else would make the coil hot. Voltage to the coil is fine. Let me know if you figure out your issue.
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I suggest starting a new thread detailing your particular issue with plenty of specifics and some well focused and lit under hood pics from various angles both wide and tight and with dizz cap in place and removed so we can see for sure what you have. Like Richard said, a '79 model in unmodified condition would have electronic ignition (no points), but this many years down the road stuff gets swapped around so the only way to know for sure is through visual ID by someone who knows what they're looking at.
 
I wondered if anyone has "relocated" the coil and bracket somewhere else in the engine bay where it may get additional cooling. I know since the coil is mounted horizontally above the intake manifold, it might not get enough air circulating around it. I would love to see any pix of relocated coils.
Thanks all. Richard
 
Yes, I've relocated my coil to an upright orientation at the front of the engine on the passenger bank. That said, the electrical and resistance still must be correct. Better air flow won't make up for a mistake on the electrical side.
 
Richard said:
I wondered if anyone has "relocated" the coil and bracket somewhere else in the engine bay where it may get additional cooling. I know since the coil is mounted horizontally above the intake manifold, it might not get enough air circulating around it. I would love to see any pix of relocated coils.
Thanks all. Richard
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They've been working for 60+ years right there on the manifold. doubt that's your issue.

Is the coil the correct ohm range and if not are you using a resistor.
 
There is no problem with the coil now. It's just that the location lends itself to high heat. I was just trying to get better airflow around it. Thank you, though, for your insight. I also heard that coils should be vertical vs. horizontal. Just asking.
 
Scoutboy74 said:
I suggest starting a new thread detailing your particular issue with plenty of specifics and some well focused and lit under hood pics from various angles both wide and tight and with dizz cap in place and removed so we can see for sure what you have. Like Richard said, a '79 model in unmodified condition would have electronic ignition (no points), but this many years down the road stuff gets swapped around so the only way to know for sure is through visual ID by someone who knows what they're looking at.
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Just to close the loop here, because I hate reading these posts that don't get updated as resolved: I checked my points, and by bumping my starter to get the points "glider" on the the "max ridge" of the distributor shaft, it did not appear my points were opening at all. Is that even possible, and yet be able to start the vehicle, etc? I wrangled a feeler gauge to set the gap, which was not easy since you need 3 hands to hold the feeler gauge, make sure there is no tension on the points, tighten the screw, etc. After I set the gap, everything runs great, no ignition failure after the engine warms up, and coil does not get too hot to the touch. So yes, someone must have modified this Scout to add points.
 
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