rolling chassis and ld's bumper

[ihwild]

Iho,

what would ld's front bumper cost minus the winch and made for a one of the standard winches. Also what would be the cost of a rolling chassis or even just a frame setup with the following..
I'd be assuming either d44's or whatever axle you'd recommend keeping in mind eventually this would be for 35's
CPT 6" reverse shackle kit
CPT front swaybar kit
CPT rear swaybar kit
CPT SUA Ubolt plates
CPT 5/8" ubolts
CPT bumpstops
CPT 5" shackles(rear)
RuffStuff diffy covers
4.10 gears
Auburn Gear l/s
Yukon 4340 alloy axles
Blackwood labs GM 700r4 conversion kit
B&M 700r4 transmission
B&M shifter
NP208 transfer case or if I can keep my dana20 either or.
Whatever junk tire needed for transporting as I am not sure what tire I want yet.

Also I have a slow internet connection underway otherwise I'd look it up but how far are you from san fran, alameda or the oregon borders. I am looking at my next pcs transfer to a new unit and I May even base it off the location of the Scout places hehe. Well depending on what is available. (hmmm pack the trailer with parts and barter hmm that's an idea)

Rich

 

[ihpartsjeff]

Rich,

first off on the bumper we can make something close to that but modified for your needs however expect it to cost at least $2000. Yeah I know you're thinking that is a high price but a lot of time goes into a bumper to make it look and perform as good as ours do.

On the rolling chassis you did not specify whether it will be spring under or spring over. I assume spring under from the list of parts you asked for but with 35" tires you really need to go spring over.

As for location we are approximately 100 miles from san francisco or for a better reference about 20 miles east of sacramento off of interstate 80. We are looking to relocate the business in the very near future and hope to end up in or near Auburn which is about another 10 miles east of our current location.

On a project like this it would be best if you called so I can get a better feel for what you are after so I can spend less time preparing a more accurate estimate.

 

[ihwild]

Ok sounds fair. It's all just a thinking thing right now anyways. I was just trying to figure out what to do in what order to get to where I want as time goes. Plus I am out at sea right now. Might be able to call you if we pull into American port calls. Foreign ones... Well its great to talk about scouts but now at 20 cents to $3 a minute. I was thinking spring under at least for now. I might not go to the 35's right away so I was thinking of getting setup with the major frame mods first then do a spring over later either on the 44's or with the Chevy axles I see alot of people doing. But I love your swaybar setup. It's awesome. Howwell does it work for off-roading? Do you have to disconnect it at all? I was thinking the rs only because of the way your front sway bar works.

On the bumper idea. What would a good solid basic winch bumper run also would you be willing to make up just the center section that I could have my friend build off. I'd love to just hand you over some money. I am just not sure 100% what I want on the bumper but I want to be able to trust the center section for winching and probably some shackle mounts. Whatever size winch you'd recommend. But I was looking at the 12000 considering the price difference isn't much. Ld's bumper is great and I like how light it is. But $2000 is a bit steep for my budget right now and I'd rather give you $2000 grand for other stuff to be honest. I was rereading your build advice and I really need to do what is below first.

The first order of business when I get home is going to be the starting on the following:

1. Get new exhaust put on with 02 bungs
2. Get all fuel injection parts needed and do the install
(need the following: fuel pump, filter, lines to TBI, wiring harness or go through and clean up donor, adapter for 345 spreadbore to Chevy TBI, convert or buy distributor) (what to do for the chip though I am not sure)
3. Repair pside hub so bearing stops clicking or figure out if wheel bearing torque is just wrong (been using tech spec out of service manual automatic hubs) bearing coming loose somehow? Can see how with locking ring.
4. Rebuild l/s or replace with something else. Got 3.07 and 31 inch tires ? Change gearing and just refresh other set of axles? Might want to go with 33's next tire change.
5. New wiring harness for the truck to get rid of any future electrical gremlins and current rat nest.
6. Towing hitch and wiring. For seeable future max towing around 3500 in the form of a u-haul.
7. Taking care of rust not holes just surface rust more then anything but pitted. (hmm best way other then cutting it out)
8. Build my crazy idea for a custom back half of a truck. Or just
straighten the inner fender and build a bed box like the FI guru bill
9. Go crazy on the frame, ie sway bar, lifts etc...
In the end this is going to be a toy/dd/cross country towing rig (but only every few years for moving purposes)
I am hoping to get it too 50/50 toy/dd

the back end was hit into a telephone folding up the outer fender which has been replaced, the inner fender is still crinkled some. As much as I'd love to replace it to perfection I am figuring a trail toy is going to get smacked sometime. So I have been debating on (list #8) a tube frame back end from the step area back. Making tube frame to support the floor, up the sides for the outer fenders and top. Leaving the door pillars and rear pillars in place and just tying it all together. I'd be extending the flooring out to the inside of the fender edge. The extra area I was going to use as cubby holes or places for speakers or something. (hey I want the country music to have some thump)
I was also going to lower the gas tank down closer to the factory skid plate since it is about 2 inches above it and maybe sink a false floor section in there to store recovery gear or something but I was going to build that bed box anyways. The whole point to this is if I am going to go through the process of straightening the passenger rear fender area and t-pillar then I wanted something extra for my effort. It never will be a show queen so I am not worried about it too much. But the top doesn't quite seal/set right on that corner. The body May be tweaked slightly that I can't tell but the body lines are fairly straight.

If I get the time and money my show Scout would be the desparado midas (ever hear of one?) I have laying about back home. That one will be a lot of work though on the tub. I'd be half tempted to just redo a good candiate tub but I wanted orginal if I can on it.
Ok gotta go to watch... Sorry for the long winded post. I'll clean it up more later when I have a total better idea of what I'd like to have and go with it. Thanks for your time. Once I get the bonus I will be getting something for the fuel injection system from you.

Rich

 

[ihpartsjeff]

ok sounds fair. It's all just a thinking thing right now anyways. I was just trying to figure out what to do in what order to get to where I want as time goes. Plus I am out at sea right now. Might be able to call you if we pull into American port calls. Foreign ones... Well its great to talk about scouts but now at 20 cents to $3 a minute.

I gotcha. I prefer telephone because I'm a slow typer but I'll go ahead and try to answer your questions amongst your post since a phone isn't nearby. I will say after reading your post my best advice for you overall is to save up your money so you can get what you really want in the end but do it all at once. I know its not in the cards for everybody but it will save you the most money in the long run and you will get what you really want.

I was thinking spring under at least for now. I might not go to the 35's right away so I was thinking of getting setup with the major frame mods first then do a spring over later either on the 44's or with the Chevy axles I see alot of people doing. But I love your swaybar setup. It's awesome. Howwell does it work for off-roading? Do you have to disconnect it at all? I was thinking the rs only because of the way your front sway bar works.

Either build it for SUA or SOA becuase you will spend too much money building your project.

Our swaybar set-ups work very well! Due to the stiffer rated bar that we run in the front I do recommend that the setup be disconnected before heavy four wheeling such as the rubicon trail.

On the bumper idea. What would a good solid basic winch bumper run also would you be willing to make up just the center section that I could have my friend build off. I'd love to just hand you over some money. I am just not sure 100% what I want on the bumper but I want to be able to trust the center section for winching and probably some shackle mounts. Whatever size winch you'd recommend. But I was looking at the 12000 considering the price difference isn't much. Ld's bumper is great and I like how light it is. But $2000 is a bit steep for my budget right now and I'd rather give you $2000 grand for other stuff to be honest. I was rereading your build advice and I really need to do what is below first.

On ld's bumper the center section took a lot of the time to build. It was heavily plated on the back side to have enough strength to be safely used. But my point is it still is a custom part and any custom part built per a customer specification is going to cost a few dollars to build. If it was a regularly manufactured part that would be one thing to just sell you the center section but ld's bumper is a one-of-a-kind bumper and what you want sounds the same.

The first order of business when I get home is going to be the starting on the following:

1. Get new exhaust put on with 02 bungs - when we build a rig the exhaust is the last thing we do. So many times a customer has disregarded my advice on waiting on the exhaust only to have us sawzall it out because it was not made with the future modifications in mind.
2. Get all fuel injection parts needed and do the install
(need the following: fuel pump, filter, lines to TBI, wiring harness or go through and clean up donor, adapter for 345 spreadbore to Chevy TBI, convert or buy distributor) (what to do for the chip though I am not sure) no problem gathering parts.
3. Repair pside hub so bearing stops clicking or figure out if wheel bearing torque is just wrong (been using tech spec out of service manual automatic hubs) bearing coming loose somehow? Can see how with locking ring. it sounds like you have a spun wheel bearing race. Have you inspected the races and made sure they are not spinning in the hub? Its a very common problem on Scout hubs.
4. Rebuild l/s or replace with something else. Got 3.07 and 31 inch tires ? Change gearing and just refresh other set of axles? Might want to go with 33's next tire change. I recommend a new Auburn Gear limited-slip or powrlok. If you plan on a 700r4 conversion then definitely go with 4.27 or 4.56 gears.
5. New wiring harness for the truck to get rid of any future electrical gremlins and current rat nest. our 8 circuit wiring kits basic 8 circuit wiring kit - IH Parts America Scout Are perfect for a Scout II.
6. Towing hitch and wiring. For seeable future max towing around 3500 in the form of a u-haul. that sounds easy. Probably best to buy a class 3 hitch.
7. Taking care of rust not holes just surface rust more then anything but pitted. (hmm best way other then cutting it out) sand and coat with a rust killer then spray on a bedliner.
8. Build my crazy idea for a custom back half of a truck. Or just
straighten the inner fender and build a bed box like the FI guru bill sounds interesting.
9. Go crazy on the frame, ie sway bar, lifts etc...
In the end this is going to be a toy/dd/cross country towing rig (but only every few years for moving purposes)
I am hoping to get it too 50/50 toy/dd hurry up and win the lottery and just bring your ride over for a ihon overhaulin!

See my answers above in red.

The back end was hit into a telephone folding up the outer fender which has been replaced, the inner fender is still crinkled some. As much as I'd love to replace it to perfection I am figuring a trail toy is going to get smacked sometime. So I have been debating on (list #8) a tube frame back end from the step area back. Making tube frame to support the floor, up the sides for the outer fenders and top. Leaving the door pillars and rear pillars in place and just tying it all together. I'd be extending the flooring out to the inside of the fender edge. The extra area I was going to use as cubby holes or places for speakers or something. (hey I want the country music to have some thump)
I was also going to lower the gas tank down closer to the factory skid plate since it is about 2 inches above it and maybe sink a false floor section in there to store recovery gear or something but I was going to build that bed box anyways. The whole point to this is if I am going to go through the process of straightening the passenger rear fender area and t-pillar then I wanted something extra for my effort. It never will be a show queen so I am not worried about it too much. But the top doesn't quite seal/set right on that corner. The body May be tweaked slightly that I can't tell but the body lines are fairly straight.

You really need to make up your mind on whether this is going to be a trail rig or a daily driver. Its really hard to build a rig for both as body damage occurs and body work isn't cheap.

If I get the time and money my show Scout would be the desparado midas (ever hear of one?) I have laying about back home. That one will be a lot of work though on the tub. I'd be half tempted to just redo a good candiate tub but I wanted orginal if I can on it.

Never heard of one but I would bet it is a very rare vehicle. Got a pic?

Ok gotta go to watch... Sorry for the long winded post. I'll clean it up more later when I have a total better idea of what I'd like to have and go with it. Thanks for your time. Once I get the bonus I will be getting something for the fuel injection system from you.

Rich

No need to clean it up. All questions answered.

 

[ihwild]

Either build it for SUA or SOA becuase you will spend too much money building your project.

Our swaybar set-ups work very well! Due to the stiffer rated bar that we run in the front I do recommend that the setup be disconnected before heavy four wheeling such as the rubicon trail.
Q: are the swaybars the same for SUA v.s. SOA? Would I be able to install at least the rear one to maximize road manners earlier on into the build up? How easy is the front one to disconnect and do you need a rs to use it? I know they say to go SOA for 35's but I'd be willing to do fender trimming if needed. Pa has been trying to do some wacky vehicle modification inspection on verifying mods are safe. I am not sure at the moment what passes just yet.



On ld's bumper the center section took a lot of the time to build. It was heavily plated on the back side to have enough strength to be safely used. But my point is it still is a custom part and any custom part built per a customer specification is going to cost a few dollars to build. If it was a regularly manufactured part that would be one thing to just sell you the center section but ld's bumper is a one-of-a-kind bumper and what you want sounds the same.

Q: do you have any regularly built bumper styles or center sections. I've seen a lot of designs I like on various sites I am just a bit concerned about my budget but yet while I do wheel this when I get a chance I'd like to have a winch and solid recovery points on it. So I'd go with a more common design as long as it is strong enough. What I liked about ld's is lightweight yet strong. It doesn't have to be one of a kind.

You really need to make up your mind on whether this is going to be a trail rig or a daily driver. Its really hard to build a rig for both as body damage occurs and body work isn't cheap.\

r: the body is tweaked to some degree already so I am not too concerned with bd. The back I just want to adjust because of the top. I have been half tempted to go back to some sort of cab/pickup setup but haven't designed it since I can't draw. It eventually will be mainly a toy but I want it to be street safe and legal and available to tow stuff during my military moves until at least I settle down in one spot. I'd just buy a 1 ton but I don't have the money for that anyways that would be 4 vehicles then lol. (my future dd, wife's dd, and then the two trucks) but I am not going to cry over a dent or two. I do have a cage though I think it needs to be tweaked to be mounted properly due to the body repairs done earlier on.


Never heard of one but I would bet it is a very rare vehicle. Got a pic?
R: yes going to try to attach some basic photos.. The truck is in pieces right now though.

The first order of business when I get home is going to be the starting on the following:

1. Get new exhaust put on with 02 bungs - when we build a rig the exhaust is the last thing we do. So many times a customer has disregarded my advice on waiting on the exhaust only to have us sawzall it out because it was not made with the future modifications in mind.
R: needs new exhaust due to rusting out only half of it is there yet plus need the o2 bungs to run the fuel injection old pipes probably too rusty. Got any suggestion on size tube, duals, singles, run path? I found a place locally that can do it in 409 stainless for 500 without new mufflers just pipes and they sounded willing to work with me on how it goes in. I don't care if it is duals or single, single might be easier if I ever get into a more strict area on smogging. It is a 1979.

2. Get all fuel injection parts needed and do the install
(need the following: fuel pump, filter, lines to TBI, wiring harness or go through and clean up donor, adapter for 345 spreadbore to Chevy TBI, convert or buy distributor) (what to do for the chip though I am not sure) no problem gathering parts.
R: ok will have to figure one what I'm buying vs modding n call u.

3. Repair pside hub so bearing stops clicking or figure out if wheel bearing torque is just wrong (been using tech spec out of service manual automatic hubs) bearing coming loose somehow? Can see how with locking ring. It sounds like you have a spun wheel bearing race. Have you inspected the races and made sure they are not spinning in the hub? Its a very common problem on Scout hubs.
R: planning on buying at least that hub. It seemed to go away when I tightened it up just a hair more on the adjustment nut. The wheel still spun easily enough.

4. Rebuild l/s or replace with something else. Got 3.07 and 31 inch tires ? Change gearing and just refresh other set of axles? Might want to go with 33's next tire change.
I recommend a new Auburn Gear limited-slip or powrlok. If you plan on a 700r4 conversion then definitely go with 4.27 or 4.56 gears.
R: I know I'd need the adapter, a trans, possibly the transfer case? What else do I need for that conversion. I noticed even with the lower gearing and bigger tires that my rpms are below what I have right now in the final gear. Any idea on the ideal rpm to run? I have the 345 160000 miles with a schneider cam in it the one just above stock grind. Would a stak 3 speed with the overdrive be cheaper?

5. New wiring harness for the truck to get rid of any future electrical gremlins and current rat nest. Our 8 circuit wiring kits basic 8 circuit wiring kit - IH Parts America Scout are perfect for a Scout II.
R: in the plans
6. Towing hitch and wiring. For seeable future max towing around 3500 in the form of a u-haul. That sounds easy. Probably best to buy a class 3 hitch.
R: that was my thought. Ground clearance be damned lol safety first.
7. Taking care of rust not holes just surface rust more then anything but pitted. (hmm best way other then cutting it out) sand and coat with a rust killer then spray on a bedliner.
R: got any suggestions on the rust killer?
8. Build my crazy idea for a custom back half of a truck. Or just
straighten the inner fender and build a bed box like the FI guru bill sounds interesting.
R: it does sound interesting if I can draw it I'll send you a sketch and see what you think.

Hurry up and win the lottery and just bring your ride over for a ihon overhaulin!

R: if I do hit the lottery (the big one that is) then every Scout vendor out there would have something to build for me including a diesel electric hybrid one. I'd probably have most raffled off for charity later on.


The desparado Scout is a traveler midas style interior, a kinda of wood plaid cloth, those spun metal decals on the dash. Clock overhead, map lights, twin sunroofs, white paint, decals (see the picture) consoles between front and back captains chairs. Front ones rotate. 345 auto unknown gearing. Late seventies yearage. 4x4
thanks for all your information and help with planning this.

 

[ihpartsjeff]

Rich,

honestly you made my head hurt trying to read your response .but really please try to find a phone and call me when you get a chance. I do want to help guide you on your project but you have a ton of questions which would be easiest answered via phone. If I start typing a response now to all your questions I might get done by morning. I really do want to help you out on your project so please call when you get a chance and I'll be glad to lend you my ear.

 

[ihwild]

Ok lol makes sense.... Hey did the pictures for the desperado decals come through? Ever see them before?
I'll call you when I get a chance then.

Thanks for all your time.
Rich