thank you swepco, if it wasnt for all you guys here on the IHOnly north forum I wouldnt begin to know where to start with this Scout, and after doing a lot of research on Scout,s and after getting advise and support from here. I was able to rescue my cornbinder from a dull parked life,
and now with a lot of tlc and the help from all of you all here it can be done thank you so much
Thanks for the props from all of us here at ihon corn!
We don't want that rig to git hurt in any way...rigs that are family treasures are real special to us also, and need to be treated very carefully and not shotgunned!
The absolute worst life for any piece of machinery is to be allowed to "sit" unexercised in a proper manner! Just like for us blood and guts machines!
So stay away from any "shit inna can" other than fresh motor oil of the spec as dick mentioned.
We can step ya through the diagnostic process for what ya got right now...however, if ya memorize those threads I referred to, you will have all the info ya need.
Before going any further, I'd put a "tee" fitting into the oil pressure sender so you can install either a temporary or permanent mechanical oil pressure gauge. I run both the oem and the add-on oil pressure gauge on all my personal stuff.
Then dump the oil and refill with whatever you are going to normally run, and install either a purolator pure one, napa gold, wix, or hastings oil filter...any of those will allow at least a 10psi oil pressure increase at 2000rpm+ over a fram filter of any type....prolly improve hot/idle oil pressure about 5>7psi. Install seven quarts of oil with a filter change (Scout II oil pan only!), pay no attention to the marks on the dipstick, mentally "adjust" the dip stick marks to reflect the seven quart fill at that point.
Doing the above gives you (and us!) a baseline to begin your diagnostics for "the noise"! Record the cold idle and cold 2000rpm oil pressure numbers. An sv engine is not considered "warmed up" until the oil reaches a stable operating temperature (175f>195f), that is approximately 30 minutes of run time at an ambient temp of say 50f with a correctly functioning cooling fan clutch and thermostat (180f>195f setpoint). During that 30 minute period, observe the oil pressure at both rpm points throughout and "graph" the oil pressure change. Once we have a picture of the oil pressure "curve", both cold and hot, then we can proceed to the next step! It's important to watch the oil pressure change during this period, from cold to hot.
The primary control factor regarding oil pressure in these I-4 and sv engines is cam bearing condition, not rod/main bearing condition as on many other engines. Yes...the bypass/pressure relief valve in the oil pump system is a control point, but if all else is "normal", that does not come into play in diagnostics.
You are right...we don't "know" what the noise issue root cause it, could be many things/sources, that is why we're gonna diagnose this inna logical manner. But history/experience with these motors over and over, tells us that the "oil pressure" diagnostic is a major step in proving, or disproving this kind complaint. And...going into this project regarding the family jewel we must verify the operation of the engine lubrication system or otherwise all else is for naught!
For the purpose of determining what is going on here with your engine, let's keep all pertinent facts regarding this "knock" issue contained to this thread!