Ring the new year with snow and rocks.

Dan - when are you going to ditch the external hubs and go internal? Then you can run drive flanges and never break a hub again....

I'll even help you do it!
 
chris pucci said:
dan - when are you going to ditch the external hubs and go internal? Then you can run drive flanges and never break a hub again....

I'll even help you do it!
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We talked about that today, and I just got done reading over what you did to your brothers Scout again. Looks really good, how much did it cost to do the entire swap?

Ive got a list of things to do before the oct cali trip, guesse I should add this to the list:icon_cry:
 
chris pucci said:
I'd go but there is something wrong with my Scout. I put it in gear and nothing happens. I just don't think I am getting power to the axles....

noaxle.jpg



Have fun and be safe!! And if you get stuck bad and need advice at 3am -- give me a call, I'll probably be up kickin' it with max.
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Looks pretty normal.



Whats your excuse? Kid or something:icon_rotate: :crazy:
 
dboy said:
we talked about that today, and I just got done reading over what you did to your brothers Scout again. Looks really good, how much did it cost to do the entire swap?

Ive got a list of things to do before the oct cali trip, guesse I should add this to the list:icon_cry:
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All brand new parts = $200. Plus you scrounge up a set of Chevy 19 spline stub shafts.

Or junk yard parts = $50. Same deal on the stub shafts.


But lucky you, I'm getting out of the d44 business and have a set of stubs I'd give you -- if you promise to ditch the junk external hubs! (I was going to keep them for the next axle I build, but this might help keep me from building another d44!)
 
I might just have the rest of the parts (except the slugs). Anybody headed my way to yours?


Chris, refresh my memory on how well the dodge stuff worked out?
 
chris pucci said:
all brand new parts = $200. Plus you scrounge up a set of Chevy 19 spline stub shafts.

Or junk yard parts = $50. Same deal on the stub shafts.


But lucky you, I'm getting out of the d44 business and have a set of stubs I'd give you -- if you promise to ditch the junk external hubs! (I was going to keep them for the next axle I build, but this might help keep me from building another d44!)
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Well that sounds like a deal! Im in.


monte lauer said:
I have the slugs he needs, but I think he still wants to run hubs because of his front locker. :icon_rolleyes:
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I might still want the slugs to put in when wheeling, but for street driving I'll still keep the hubs, and as long as im not bouncing off the rev limiter on slippery rocks, my hubs should hold up fine.
 
dboy said:
I might still want the slugs to put in when wheeling, but for street driving I'll still keep the hubs, and as long as im not bouncing off the rev limiter on slippery rocks, my hubs should hold up fine.
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Sounds like it's decision time.... Trail rig or street rig.
Ya can't have both! (without serious compromise)
 
major screwup said:
sounds like it's decision time.... Trail rig or street rig.
Ya can't have both! (without serious compromise)
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With as quick as I am at swapping out hubs I could just keep the slugs in the Scout and swap accordion-ly. Sounds like the best of both to me!:ihih:

and honestlly the only reason I dont want slugs on the street is because of my aussie locker.....but I have one in the back that I use on the street that works great, mainlly because its worn in. So I bet after a little while my front would wear in and be just fine.

I am dead set on haveing the most capable street legal wheeler that I can, if I go to a trail only rig it wont be with casper. Monte can vouch for how well casper handles 60mph with only 10psi:yikes:
 
dboy said:
And honestlly the only reason I dont want slugs on the street is because of my aussie locker.....
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You don't want flanges on the street for many reasons. They pretty much suck. Every vibration and shimmy is multiplied. I ran them to work one day and came right home and put the hubs back on for the next days drive...


Ashford:
as for the dodge stuff, it sucked and I never got it figured out....still sitting in the corner.
 
Run the locking hubs for starters, carry slugs as trail spares.


If you start running into issues of blowing the internal hubs apart all the time, then run the flanges for the trail and swap them out for the street.

*I* predict between the GM stub and internal hubs you'll be much stronger to begain with you'll be running into "other" issues :d
 
Mark ashford said:
run the locking hubs for starters, carry slugs as trail spares.


If you start running into issues of blowing the internal hubs apart all the time, then run the flanges for the trail and swap them out for the street.

*I* predict between the GM stub and internal hubs you'll be much stronger to begain with you'll be running into "other" issues :d
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Sounds like a good plan.
 
chris pucci said:
ashford:
as for the dodge stuff, it sucked and I never got it figured out....still sitting in the corner.
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I was bored, over at the other house with all my stuff, so I grabbed some of my dodge stuff to see what was up.

I think I saw your issue. Rotor hits the backing plate? Might have hit on the solution: swap on a f150 rotor. Well I'd have to do some measurements. The dodge has a 1.25" hat, a Scout and a Chevy have 1" hats and space things out just perfect. The Scout one would work, but the center hole would have to be opened up. The Chevy one is a perfect fit (other that the 6-lug). Assumption would be then that the standard f150 rotor should be a nice match.

Really the only thing you'd be gaining would be using the big bearing spindle over sourcing a small-bearing unit. Which May or May not be worth it. I'll have to scare up a Ford rotor and see if its the ticket. O, ya, and check the stub stick-out..... Some other day.
 
egdinger said:
Mike I remember uber was having problems with the rear ARB. Not sure if any of the following is anything new, but it looks like the solenoid is rebuild-able. ARB has directions here. http://www.ARB.com.au/resources/pdf/airlockers/5-07.pdf .

I also looked into trail fixes for a bad solenoid, found this, mcmaster-carr[/url ] , assuming that the ARB fittings are npt threaded (couldn't find this bit of info online) . you could just pull the lines out of the solenoid and run them through this.[/quote ]

the ARB fittings and lines are metric.
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Chris I thought the fittings were metric, but if you look at the sheet on the solenoid, they list the "nipple" that threads into the solenoid as 1/8". Now that I look at it again, it's 1/8bspt, not npt. So that part I listed won't work anyways. Lines are metric though, they also list a 5mm to 1/8" push in fitting for the line, I wonder why they did that?

Looks like there's one in brass that will work though. mcmaster-carr . wonder if there's a place to get these locally?
 
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Thanks eric. I'll pull that sucker apart and lose some of the peices so I can buy a new one. :icon_rotate:
for the record I could have put my drive flanges in and continued the run. However with casper on 3 wheels and the fact that I didn't want to get any wetter. I pussed out. :icon_xd:
I do usualy run flanges in uber for wheeling. I guess I thought that snow might be more forgiving then rocks. Turns out that 37" tires are just hard on hubs in any conditions. :icon_sad:
 
Mike I'm not sure we could have gotten any wetter:crazy: seemed like a good idea to head home anyways, the way it was going something else would have broken. I had a lot of fun anyways, thanks for taking me.
 
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