refusal to start
- Thread starter 1hc72
- Start date
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Here is a scan of an r-line schematic...figgr it out!
You simply must get a copy of a service manual for this vehicle, ya can't expect answers to all your questions regarding a medium duty truck from the 50's on this forum.
You need a cts-12 service manual and a mt-97 parts list to cover the r-line stuff. In absence of a cts-12, a cts-2000 would surfice.
You simply must get a copy of a service manual for this vehicle, ya can't expect answers to all your questions regarding a medium duty truck from the 50's on this forum.
You need a cts-12 service manual and a mt-97 parts list to cover the r-line stuff. In absence of a cts-12, a cts-2000 would surfice.
X2 to what Mike sez.
If the truck is original, including electrical; then it would be a 6 volt system with generator as per the spec sheet posted elsewhere. When running, the generator should be kicking out a nominal 7 to 8 volts, and at full load the field current should be around 1.5 to 2 amps. Low output or a low voltage sitch could be anything From a slipping belt, dirty or loose electrical connections, to worn commutator brushes, dirty commutator, weak brush springs, or a regulator that ain't regulating. There's alot to check, the methods can be tedious for the novice like you or I. Your best bet is to locate a manual, it'll have electrical tests; and/or find an automotive/truck electrical service shop. Auto emporiums with "free testing" would not be a good place. The local shop I use still has an owner who can test this old stuff and lottsa dog-eared spec manuals.
If the truck is original, including electrical; then it would be a 6 volt system with generator as per the spec sheet posted elsewhere. When running, the generator should be kicking out a nominal 7 to 8 volts, and at full load the field current should be around 1.5 to 2 amps. Low output or a low voltage sitch could be anything From a slipping belt, dirty or loose electrical connections, to worn commutator brushes, dirty commutator, weak brush springs, or a regulator that ain't regulating. There's alot to check, the methods can be tedious for the novice like you or I. Your best bet is to locate a manual, it'll have electrical tests; and/or find an automotive/truck electrical service shop. Auto emporiums with "free testing" would not be a good place. The local shop I use still has an owner who can test this old stuff and lottsa dog-eared spec manuals.
My first question is why did you replace the coil? The coil would not have been the first place I looked.
My next question is, what is different about the way in which you run the truck at night?
Is the only the difference the headlights?
If that is the case I would look at the headlight switch and the light circuit.
If the headlight switch is all green and corroded it May cause an excessive load on the electrical system causing the engine to quit running.
On my '51 l-170 the headlight switch was so far gone that turning on the headlights turned off the engine.
My next question is, what is different about the way in which you run the truck at night?
Is the only the difference the headlights?
If that is the case I would look at the headlight switch and the light circuit.
If the headlight switch is all green and corroded it May cause an excessive load on the electrical system causing the engine to quit running.
On my '51 l-170 the headlight switch was so far gone that turning on the headlights turned off the engine.