MrFixxit68
New member
I am rebuilding a 345 for a Scout 2, service manual shows install using factory tool. Does anybody have any ideas on how to do this using tools that are laying around in a normal shop.
Rear main seal install
- Thread starter MrFixxit68
- Start date
Craig
Active member
I won't be on much use as I only have hillbilly tools
you can use a hammer and a block of wood to tap it on. The main thing to watch is the inner lip. I used a small pointed tool to pull the lip out before tapping it on to far. I put a dap of silicone grease on the inner lip just to make it slide and not tear. Can't remember if I took a pic or not as it was a few years back. But once you start to put the seal on you will see how the inner lip gets pulled in and it needs to be on the outside.
Hope that make sence for ya.
you can use a hammer and a block of wood to tap it on. The main thing to watch is the inner lip. I used a small pointed tool to pull the lip out before tapping it on to far. I put a dap of silicone grease on the inner lip just to make it slide and not tear. Can't remember if I took a pic or not as it was a few years back. But once you start to put the seal on you will see how the inner lip gets pulled in and it needs to be on the outside.
Hope that make sence for ya.
Last edited:
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Two schools of thought regarding the "special tool". I personally have no use for 'em.
We cover the seal installation issue in this thread:
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/gas-engine-tech/1143-sonjamotor-lives.html
MrFixxit68
New member
I noticed in the sonja engine rebuild picture showing the rear main seal in place that the end of the crank was basiclly flush with the end of the main cap. My crank has a 3 in. Hub on the end of it. No way the seal is gonna fit over that hub. I looked at some of the pictures toward the end of the build and noticed that crank has the same hub on it. Which tells me that that hub must come off to install the seal. How does one get that hub off. Bear with me...this is my first experence with scouts I just recently aquirred 3 of them. Plan on making 2 very nice drivers out of the three. I have been restoring muscle cars for years so im somewhat machaniclly inclined hopefully will pick up on the Scout stuff.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
That "hub" you describe is easily removed. That is only used with a flex plate (instead of a flywheel) on vehicles equipped with the tf 727/t-407 automatic transmission.
It will only go on in one particular position as it's part of the oem balance process used as that engine went down the assembly line. That position is keyed through the use of a large spring pin.
So the adapter you describe is simply stuck to the crank flange right now. A good whack with a deadblow hammer on the side will break it loose and it will fall off.
A manual transmission engine has a conventional flywheel that bolts directly to the crankshaft flange, no spacer is used. And a ball bearing is knocked into the end of the crank shaft flange to serve as a pilot bearing, no brass bushings were used on these setups.
By using the spacer with the flex plate, ihc was able to use the same starter setup for all engine applications, no matter what transmission was installed. However, the starter on an autotrans rig will have a spacer plate of 3/16" thickness between the starter mounting flange and the engine block.
When you reinstall the adapter/flex plate/flex plate washer ring, and bolts, the bolt threads must be sterile. Then you coat the entire thread of each bolt with a sealant such as hylomar or permatex #2 before threading into place. If you don't do that process, then oil will pour out of the back of the motor just like you left the seal out.
Also...the rear of the oil pan flange has two bolts that are smaller than the others, those are 1/4" x 20 threads. When the pan is re-installed with a new gaskets, put the same sealant on the threads of those bolts before inserting, they go into holes that are drilled through right into the rear main bearing cap and crankcase!
It will only go on in one particular position as it's part of the oem balance process used as that engine went down the assembly line. That position is keyed through the use of a large spring pin.
So the adapter you describe is simply stuck to the crank flange right now. A good whack with a deadblow hammer on the side will break it loose and it will fall off.
A manual transmission engine has a conventional flywheel that bolts directly to the crankshaft flange, no spacer is used. And a ball bearing is knocked into the end of the crank shaft flange to serve as a pilot bearing, no brass bushings were used on these setups.
By using the spacer with the flex plate, ihc was able to use the same starter setup for all engine applications, no matter what transmission was installed. However, the starter on an autotrans rig will have a spacer plate of 3/16" thickness between the starter mounting flange and the engine block.
When you reinstall the adapter/flex plate/flex plate washer ring, and bolts, the bolt threads must be sterile. Then you coat the entire thread of each bolt with a sealant such as hylomar or permatex #2 before threading into place. If you don't do that process, then oil will pour out of the back of the motor just like you left the seal out.
Also...the rear of the oil pan flange has two bolts that are smaller than the others, those are 1/4" x 20 threads. When the pan is re-installed with a new gaskets, put the same sealant on the threads of those bolts before inserting, they go into holes that are drilled through right into the rear main bearing cap and crankcase!
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Using a soft mallet or hammer gently rap the end to the side.it will rock over then rap the other side till it breaks loose. The pilot on the hub is a tight fit on the crank after 30 years and will take some coaxing to get off.
chopperkarl
New member
You can easily make a great tool for this with pvc plumbing parts from any hardware or home store. A threaded coupler and a threaded plug (4" was perfect for my 304's rear main). Assemble the plug into the coupler. The couplers outer edge matches up nicely with the seal's edge. The plug gives you a central surface to hammer on. The force is evenly distributed to the seal outer edge. Note: same set up in 3" works for front main seal.