Push-Button Starter Questions

[Michael Mayben]

I read that in note 1 and was confirming if it were true. It looks like the wire for circuit 12 is still there and is in bad shape see about replacing it. If I read the schematic right it is an 18 ga wire running 72" to achieve the required 1.8 ohms resistance.

Thanks again for your help mr. Mayben. I will have progress reports tomorrow or Monday. Currently in walla walla grabbing some reloading gear. Dillon multistage press with dies brass powder and bullets for .45 acp, .223, .30-06 ( gotta keep the m1 garande fed;p )

I've searched extensively for a source for the correct type resistance wire for a few years now. I found one source but the minimum order was 1,000ft. So that is out of the question.

I'd rather have a true ballast resistor than use the resistor wire myself. Far easier to deal with, will never fail (and possibly create a fire in the case of the way ihc incorporated it into the loom).

I sometimes salvage that material out of harnesses that are beyond redemption and save 'em for whatever reason, but I keep replacement ballast resistors here in my shop for repair scenarios and never try and 'fix" the ignition feed resistor wire.

In fact...adding an ignition-switched b+ feed to your existing coil positive terminal will certainly aid in starting that rig when cold. That provides full battery voltage to the coil in the start mode and then bypasses to the ballast feed in the run mode.

If you convert the distributor to a pertronix unit, you can eliminate the ballast resistor altogether. It can run directly from switched b+ or the ballast resistor, it doesn't care.

I'd recommend getting the rig running on a breaker point diet. Get all the bugs out of the electrical system. Then convert the distributor once all the electrics are back up to snuff.