Project IronScout

[IronScout]

I talked about applying two colors on your parts. In this thread are the two pieces I have done so far.

These are the hummer rims that I got off of ebay.

my wife's friend laying down the dark green on the center section of the hummer rim. The part that will not have green is masked off with high temp tape. This stuff will not melt and removes without any residue. The green was made a little darker then the other parts I've done. All I did was mix in some black powder to the green.​

powder applied and going into the oven. It will only be in there for about 7 min at 450 deg. All I want is the green powder to melt and start flowing. Then it comes out to cool.​

it's my wife's turn to put the silver powder onto the outer section. The part was cooled down to about 100deg. Enough to manage the temp as I masked off the green section. In this picture she is applying the powder and I'm controlling the voltage to the tip of the powder coat gun.​

the finished product. The ladies liked to big boy paint.​

getting ready to lay down some silver. The top valve cover is grounded to give the part a negative charge. When the paint comes out of the tip of the powder coat gun the powder is positively charged and the positive paint particles are drawn to the negative part.​

the silver is laid down and I have the raised lettering (International) masked off. I then lay down the black and put into the oven and finish the process.​

out of the oven.​

on the motor.​

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[Michael Dimock]

Damn! That is some really nice work! Am going to be glued to this build!

 

[IronScout]

damn! That is some really nice work! Am going to be glued to this build!

Thanks michael, I will try to keep the quality of my work to the highest standards. When you have a blue print like the work done at IH Parts America, it is easy to keep the vision of a bad ass Scout that will crush the Jeep world. I will keep rolling the pic's out.

 

[IronScout]

I have the power and drive train all put together and installed. The motor is sitting on a new set of rpt motor mounts from IHOnly. The transmission cross member had to be beefed up and the rpt transmission mount is also from IHOnly.

spent some time under my rig to figure out how I was going to set up this cross member. after some head scratching and going back to middle school and breaking out the geometry books. I got all the angles and measurements spot on.

this picture shows where the rpt transmission mount will be recessed in the cross member.​

all tacked up, set into place, and rpt mount installed. Pretty good fit for first try. All luck.​

since the fit was good the next step was to box every thing up and finish weld. This picture also shows the frame tabs to hold the cross member. I also took ian's advice on extreme 4x4 to lighten up the weight of my Scout by using pvc for drive shafts.​

this picture shows how I had to notch the cross member to make sure the drive shaft would not touch during articulation. I have to finish up the welding on the front side.​

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[IronScout]

it's time to set up all the shifters. I kept the 727 torque flight transmission, but changed out the shifter. I changed the Dana 20 transfer case for a Dana 300. The Dana 20 had a single stick. The Dana 300 has twin stick. With the box 4 rocks np231 installed the Dana 300 has been moved back about 10 inches.

Twin sticks for the Dana 300. My plasma cutter did quick work of notching the body and giving the twin sticks full movement.

with transmission tunnel cover in place you can see how far the Dana 300 was moved. The access in the upper right is where the Dana 20 shifter came through.​

view from under side. Twin stick hooked up the Dana 300​

my choice for shifting my 727.​

street bandit sitting in place. I have not locked it into place yet. I have to get my roll cage put in and then set my seats. Then I can finalize the position.​

full shot of interior. Next step will be putting the shifters in for the box 4 rocks of the np231. I will be filling up the holes in IHOnly's dash with auto meter phantom gauges.​

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[ihpartsjeff]

Looking real good david!

My only concern/suggestion is where you powdercoated the spindles and caliper supports. Any surface that is bolted together such as these two parts should not have any paint/powerdercoat/dirt in between them as this May cause the parts to eventually loosen.

 

[IronScout]

looking real good david!

My only concern/suggestion is where you powdercoated the spindles and caliper supports. Any surface that is bolted together such as these two parts should not have any paint/powerdercoat/dirt in between them as this May cause the parts to eventually loosen.

Thanks for that Jeff. I will take your suggestion to get rid of the powder coat from those areas.

 

[IronScout]

Took some time to work on the top. Pulling out the side windows. thanks for the info from ihochad ; I was able to get the windows out in about 15 min and in one piece.

old window with nasty tint ready for the fight.

Its a start. Getting to this point is a little nerve racking. Watching the glass flex a little



From the inside front. Looks like some rust to deal with.



Went to home depot and picked up 5 plastic scrapers. Working with screwdrivers made it a lot harder and it felt like I was going to break the glass. The plastic scrapers worked great.



Glass out. About 15 min.



A little rust.



Time to scrape all the old tint off.



Right side vs. Left side.




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[IronScout]

I'm going to take the advise from ian from extreme 4x4 to the next level. I'm going to save some weight by building my front bumper out of cardboard. I don't think it would stand up to a toyota prius. Or would it?

My material.

Getting there.



Now its time to cut up some 1/4" plate.



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[IronScout]

Putting on my rock sliders. My plan is to place to tubes through the frame.

Frame is marked and ready for cutting.

Plasma cutters are awesome.



All cut.





Rock slider in place ready for the welder.



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[IronScout]

roll cage time.

Starting out with my three 20' dom 1 5/8 120 wall tubing.



After putting my measurements into my bendtech pro software, cutting the first tube, and putting it into my jd squared model 4 bender. It is time to start bending the main hoop.


One of two hoops done.




Bending the front part of the cage.










So far so good. All square. Next is main hoop 2 of 2. And the rear section.​

 

[IronScout]

Putting in some auto meter phantom gauges in IHOnly north's dash.
So far I have volt, vac, fuel level, oil pressure, and water temp.

Naked.














I need to get my tac, and speedo.​

 

[235frog]

Wow! I am jealous of this build! Lookin' good

 

[IronScout]

been working with my bendtec pro software. Finished bending 1 5/8 dom shock hoops for the front.

This is the shock mounts I started with. I was not going to use them because I would not be able to use the steering box. So hoops were in order.


Holes drilled through the frame. The hoops will be going through the frame.


Inside of frame rails.


Hoop in place.






Coil over installed.
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[IronScout]

finished with the front right hoop. Its time to get the shocks in the rear installed. Here are a couple of pictures of the axle mount that I started to fab up.





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[IronScout]

after cutting all pieces for the axle mount with my plasma cutter it was time to put it all together.

Couple pictures of the welded up mount.





Tacked to the axle.







Top mount



Left side finished. Now for the right side.

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[RobertC]

Great work...

But, it looks like your shocks are not the correct length (fully compressed / fully extended) for your suspension. Looks like the rear shocks will definitely bottom out -- and possibly the fronts, also. It does not look like the pictures were taken with the suspension "fully compressed"...

 

[IronScout]

great work...

But, it looks like your shocks are not the correct length (fully compressed / fully extended) for your suspension. Looks like the rear shocks will definitely bottom out -- and possibly the fronts, also. It does not look like the pictures were taken with the suspension "fully compressed"...

Thanks for that. I have exercised the front and the only issue is tire kissing the very front of finder. I will be trimming that and I will still be good in the front. For the rear; it might be close. I have 5" of compression and 7" of drop out. I uses my jack and jacked it as high as I could get it and I was close. It looked like every two inches the axle went up the shock would compress one inch. So hopefully when I get my tires back on and get the fork lift in place, everything will go good. Ive tried to get the correct shock and other parts that I ordered from the company I got the suspension from and I'm still waiting. Its been over a year of waiting. I gave up. I'm sure I will be getting a set of Bilstein shocks from IHOnly; and I won't have to wait a year to get them. I welcome some advice. What shocks would you use? I was trying to copy pd's drive train and how they set up his shocks.

 

[BANoriega]

If you do run into problems this is a link to jegs for the screw on type

mr. Gasket shock extensions - jegs

There is also these but I do not like the design too well

https://beedspeed.com/product_info.php/cpath/78_160/products_id/5648

But I thought of the idea of just using some dom tubing around the shock weld some tabs to the tubing that will work with your shock mount and just run a bolt through the tubing into the shock mounting tab. But this is just an idea I had while sitting around so do with it what you will.

I have no clue as far as a shock you could run.

Hopefully you just don't run into problems in the first place.

 

[BANoriega]

Oh and what would you recommend as far as springs to give me about a ride height about where yours is.

I have been in a toss up between leaf springs and coil springs. I could probably even set it up in class when I get to the point because I will be building them in class I just need need to decide.