Pertronix Ignition
- Thread starter Travis
- Start date
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
I use pertronix now in most of my work. Been selling/using 'em since 1975, the quality back then was crap and failure rate high. Now that's not an issue. I'm playing with five different distributors here now all with pertronix variations.
Just like breaker points, you will fry one if ya leave the key switch in the "on" position without the engine running. There is a heat/over-current indicator decal on the module, if it "shows", then pertronix will not honor the warranty, that is "installer error".
Same thing happens with points and any other electronic trigger. The pertronix II version has internal circuitry that prevents this damage along with a few other features for additional $$$. If ya leave the key on with points, and the points are "closed", then they will superheat and weld themselves together in about 3>5 minutes.
The pertronix application guide is somewhat misleading regarding IH apps. You must know exactly which distributor you are using to get the correct item.
Also, a p-tron does not like a worn distributor, the air gap/dwell will be all over the place when seen onna scope...that means ignition timing will vary tremendously over the rpm range. Same for the vertical end-play (aka "gear-to-housing") factor of the worn distributor, that should be no more than 0.040", I set 'em up with 0.010">0.015" clearance for consistent timing from idle to wot. A Holley distributor I built yesterday had an original clearance in excess of 0.100" which is huge, no way to keep timing consistent!
Onna p-tron, the dwell is determined by the air gap when setting it up initially, on a curved-point Holley distributor with a #1481 p-tron, that gap is 0.030" measured with non-ferrous gap gauge (included in the package).
Just like breaker points, you will fry one if ya leave the key switch in the "on" position without the engine running. There is a heat/over-current indicator decal on the module, if it "shows", then pertronix will not honor the warranty, that is "installer error".
Same thing happens with points and any other electronic trigger. The pertronix II version has internal circuitry that prevents this damage along with a few other features for additional $$$. If ya leave the key on with points, and the points are "closed", then they will superheat and weld themselves together in about 3>5 minutes.
The pertronix application guide is somewhat misleading regarding IH apps. You must know exactly which distributor you are using to get the correct item.
Also, a p-tron does not like a worn distributor, the air gap/dwell will be all over the place when seen onna scope...that means ignition timing will vary tremendously over the rpm range. Same for the vertical end-play (aka "gear-to-housing") factor of the worn distributor, that should be no more than 0.040", I set 'em up with 0.010">0.015" clearance for consistent timing from idle to wot. A Holley distributor I built yesterday had an original clearance in excess of 0.100" which is huge, no way to keep timing consistent!
Onna p-tron, the dwell is determined by the air gap when setting it up initially, on a curved-point Holley distributor with a #1481 p-tron, that gap is 0.030" measured with non-ferrous gap gauge (included in the package).
Matt G
Member
Since your question is "is it worth it?" rather than a tech question, I'll share my experience. If Mike or Jeff or someone who knows what they're talking about weighs in, ignore me and listen to them!
That said, I put a pertonix 2 in my 304-powered, stock '74 Scout 2 almost 3 years ago. It has the oem Holley points distributor, and I wanted to eliminate points and the routine tuning demands that go with them. I sprung a few extra bucks for the p2 model for exactly the key-on protection Mike refers to above. Also put on a matching coil at the same time.
I short, I love it. I performed the install myself with limited toolks and automotive knowledge, and it fired right up the first time. It's been running like a top ever since with no ignition-related problems. And the key-on protection has already paid for itself: last winter I left the ignition switch on (like an idiot...long story) while having lunch with some friends. Prolly stayed on for close to 4 hours (!). When I went out to start the Scout and noticed my stupidity I clicked it off, said a quick prayer, and wham - it fired right up and drove me home sans problema.
"is is worth it" is a relative question imo. It was worth the money to me many times over because of the long term trouble-free and lower-maintenance performance I get out of the ignition system. Ymmv...
Doing a full electronic distributor swap would sure cost more, but potentially come with more benefits. But here I'll defer to real gearheads.
That said, I put a pertonix 2 in my 304-powered, stock '74 Scout 2 almost 3 years ago. It has the oem Holley points distributor, and I wanted to eliminate points and the routine tuning demands that go with them. I sprung a few extra bucks for the p2 model for exactly the key-on protection Mike refers to above. Also put on a matching coil at the same time.
I short, I love it. I performed the install myself with limited toolks and automotive knowledge, and it fired right up the first time. It's been running like a top ever since with no ignition-related problems. And the key-on protection has already paid for itself: last winter I left the ignition switch on (like an idiot...long story) while having lunch with some friends. Prolly stayed on for close to 4 hours (!). When I went out to start the Scout and noticed my stupidity I clicked it off, said a quick prayer, and wham - it fired right up and drove me home sans problema.
"is is worth it" is a relative question imo. It was worth the money to me many times over because of the long term trouble-free and lower-maintenance performance I get out of the ignition system. Ymmv...
Doing a full electronic distributor swap would sure cost more, but potentially come with more benefits. But here I'll defer to real gearheads.
I second Matt's opinion. I did mine 6 years ago, and great service so far. Mike's take on distributor "tightness" is something to consider. Mine is a little worn, and on the scope dwell does vary a few degrees. However over all engine performance is really good. I don't think you can get decent points with the hard rubbing block, most seem to have gone the plastic route and will yield given how hot the distributor gets being next to the t'stat housing. This caused me many hours keeping them adjusted, and why I went electronic.