Ordering New Dana 60 Question

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kplumb1

New member
I hava a 75 Scout II ,304,4 speed with 4" lift springs and 2"'body lift and 5" shackles, I've decided too order a new Dana 60 rear end from Dutchman in portland where I live and on my build sheet I need too put down my pinion angle wanted ,so long story short since I dont have a Dana 60 too check on before hand I was wondering if you guys new off the top of your head what it should be,the Scout II will be SUA too .it will be a daily driver so I'm trying too set it up for optimum driveability.any help or suggestions would be help full.I will try and post some pics but I am new too this and not too computer savy yet.
 
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kplumb1 said:
I hava a 75 Scout II ,304,4 speed with 4" lift springs and 2"' blocks and 5" shackles, I've decided too order a new Dana 60 rear end from Dutchman in portland where I live and on my build sheet I need too put down my pinion angle wanted ,so long story short since I dont have a Dana 60 too check on before hand I was wondering if you guys new off the top of your head what it should be,the Scout II will be SUA too .it will be a daily driver so I'm trying too set it up for optimum driveability.any help or suggestions would be help full.I will try and post some pics but I am new too this and not too computer savy yet.
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Why do have 2" blocks & SUA?

That would lower it by 2".
 
Sorry, I corrected my question, you guys are way too sharp for me,2" body lift.thanks for correcting me mochamike
 
You think that will get me close since I,m going from 44 too 60 ithought it might be a little more difficult,but makes sense too me. Thanks
 
If you want to match your current pinion angle, you need to put the angle finder on the pinion yoke, not the drive shaft.
 
This is true.

However, I'm guessing the current pinion angle is stock/pre 4" lift springs.

Is your driveshaft original/stock? Lengthened? Does it have a cv joint?

Where you'd want it would most likely be between the stock angle & what the driveshaft is currently.

If you have a cv shaft, then use the drive shaft angle/point the pinion at the tcase.

Good tech about driveshafts & angles can be found here.
 
Yes it's all stock just dont want too end up with any vibrations,since it will be a daily driver and a weekend offroader,I will probably do a cv joint also just too make sure.im pondering a 14 bolt now too save money for the front end which will cost the most.thanks for the input.thats a good site mocha thanks
 
kplumb1 said:
yes it's all stock just dont want too end up with any vibrations,since it will be a daily driver and a weekend offroader,I will probably do a cv joint also just too make sure.im pondering a 14 bolt now too save money for the front end which will cost the most.thanks for the input.thats a good site mocha thanks
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What is your ultimate tire size goal? 14 bolts are huge and hang low...

I run one - but my next tires are going to be 38"-40"...
 
A cv driveline vs a stock driveline would be a different pinon angle.

What rock tractor said, unless your getting a cv driveline, then read up at a few driveline websites so you get the spring pads welded on correctly the first time.
 
I wont be doing any rock crawling,but do want too tow my trailer and hate doing things twice. Im thinking of 35" or 36" tire size ,love getting all these opinions .thanks everybody.we were just trying too find an easy way of finding the correct pinion angle ,without having the correct rear end in question,I dont have a welder but realize I need too get said rearend without spring perches and install it and find proper angle then have them welded on.
 
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A proper driveline angle is most important for a hwy driven truck.

I'm running a cv rear driveshaft and followed the driveline websites to set my pinion angle. It just takes one of those $5-10 angle finders from sears or harbor freight and fairly level driveway or even better the garage floor. Park the truck and take a few readings.
First the slope of the engine / transmission, there are several place you can take the readings. The valve cover or the bottom edge of the 727 transmission. Just looking for a machined edge. Mine transmission was close to 5° tilt to the rear.

slope_trans2_600x380.jpg


Second measure the current pinion angle of the rear end
diff_cover_point_600x450.jpg


cv_angle.gif


Now measure the driveline angle. I assume you have one installed.

You want the pinion to point down 1 or 2 degrees from a straight line to the transfer case to account for spring wrap.
When you shift gear the pinion will rotate up. Just look at a lifted truck to see this action. Not that yours is that lifted, but its easy to see what everything is exposed..

All of this info is in the link I posted above.


Edit... If your running a stock dana20 the newer ones have a 26 spline shaft and the 88-93 Jeep cheeroke front drive shaft is a cv, so you can use the yoke off of the Jeep transfer case on the IH Dana 20 if you want. I ran a Jeep driveline and yoke for years on my Scout.
 
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kplumb1 said:
I wont be doing any rock crawling,but do want too tow my trailer and hate doing things twice. Im thinking of 35" or 36" tire size ,love getting all these opinions .thanks everybody.we were just trying too find an easy way of finding the correct pinion angle ,without having the correct rear end in question,I dont have a welder but realize I need too get said rearend without spring perches and install it and find proper angle then have them welded on.
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If you won't be beating on it and are just looking for a heavies duty axle for towing -- a Dana 60 is probably a better choice. And you can get them in semi-float design from Dutchman with your stock 5x5.5" wheel bolt pattern.
 
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