Oil from all orifices and other delayed maintenance

[kjc-01]

But honey, it was just a little fire.

So I finally got my for-real hylomar in the mail and got around to taking off the passenger side valve cover to tackle that oil leak and decided to take a spin around the block to heat/soften the gasket and whatever adhesive or mung was keeping it from coming off. Since I already destroyed the pcv-to-intake hose when removing it, I just plugged the pcv boss on the valve cover and the intake manifold thinking "whats the worst that could happen, the flame arrestor side is still open to vent any back pressure." at the end of the block I could hear some kind of rattle (valve clatter?) upon deceleration and there was some smoke. I attributed the latter to mung on the headers from replacing the exhaust gaskets. When I got it back in the barn there was a stream of oil coming out what looked like the front left of the oil pan, maybe higher up (front main seal?). There was no oil being slung off the balancer where the timing Mark is, though. After putting out the oil fire on the header I unblocked the pcv port and the major leakage went away. So, what seal have I blown?!? Also, how corrosive is ammonium chloride from a fire extinguisher? The good news is the heat allowed the old crusty neoprene gasket to release the valve cover. I even found an old bit of cork gasket blocking the forward oil drainback hole, so there is some room for improved oil return. Stay positive, right?

 

[kjc-01]

Since the last post I was able to attribute the 'valve clatter' to an unrelated exhaust issue, now resolved the valve cover gasket replacement ended up well, that hylomar stuff is sticky, though. Props to robertc for reminding me to let the solvent evaporate for 20 minutes before closing up against a rubber gasket. Took it to the self-service car wash and washed as much ammonium chloride off the engine and surrounding equipment as I could. Kept it on low pressure rinse and all electronics survived. I'm still getting a small puddle of oil each time I park, maybe a tablespoon or so. Still a major improvement over the previous leak. While I was at it I drained and refilled the radiator. Need to replace the hose on the overflow tank and figure out why there is always an inch or two of head room every time I open the radiator cap (stant 7 lb on side tank radiator. I know I could use the 14, but switched to a lower one when I had a leak years ago. Should get a new one either way.). Didn't drain the block, tho. Will do it next time, when I get a new thermostat and gaskets from Jeff. I see he offers several temperatures. What's the standard one to use? Replaced the power steering fluid, too. Boy was that dark and nasty. Next on the list: get the cab in order. Broke a pin off the back of the oil pressure/temperature instrument cluster years ago and lost the light. Need to rig a bypass or hone the soldering skills. Need to route the new vacuum gauge hose and collect the extra length under the dash. Was nice to have the extra length to allow me to see it while tuning the carburetor. Thanks again to everybody for their help.

-jon

 

[kjc-01]

I finally got around to ordering the supplies for the valley pan gasket r&r and want the experts to review my plan after reading all the posts I could find on the subject.

Coolant will be drained from radiator petcock, then lower hose, then 2 block plugs to minimize spilling. The manifold will be lifted/replaced using a lift hung from the garage rafters (after removing the hood) to save my back.

I plan to remove the welch plugs with a slide hammer, clean the manifold and valley pan w/ brake cleaner and a wire wheel, install welch plugs with a steel rod and 1 lb. Ball peen hammer, then prime and paint w/ Ford red vht engine enamel. There seem to be varying opinions on whether to install the welch plugs dry or with sealant. If the holes are in good shape, I will go in dry and if there are pores or gouges I will use a thin film of hylomar on the edges of the counterbores.

The intake manifold gaskets will get with two coats of copper gasket spray (dry in between?), and the neoprene valley pan gasket will be tacked to the manifold with 3m 77 spray adhesive, otherwise dry. Manifold bolts will have hylomar on the threads to seal oil passages. Anything else I am missing?