No Power...ANYWHERE

[TXFireman]

I did a quick look and didn't see anyone else with this problem, so it's probably something easy.

I've been tidying up my engine compartment, getting rid of loose wires, putting loom on them, etc....while I was at it I relocated my starter solinoid higher up on the fender near my washer fluid tank. Now, I have no elec, anywhere. No headlights, radio, nothing.

This happened once before and I wiggled the solinoid and it all came back. It was held on by one screw, which was part of my reason for moving it. It's now bolted down solid with 2 nuts/bolts. The wire from the battery is hot, but no power to anything else, and it won't turn over. The hot wire is on the same terminal that the wire from the battery is on, so it should have juice.

It there a circuit breaker somewhere, or a ground point I May be overlooking? Ever heard of this before? Why did wiggling the solinoid fix it before but not now? Are there really gremlins that live in electrical systems?


Thanks in advance for any input....

 

[Michael Mayben]

#1 issue with these rigs is always the bulkhead connector that has the blue (or pink) 10 gauge wire runs going in and out, those connectors are way under "ampacity" and a nagging issue that IH never corrected.

Those same wire runs "May" (or May not) have a fusible link segment in line which serves as a "master" fuse. It's very common to find this sii crap that has the po virus where someone has already juryrigged wiring to bypass the fusibles or work around a torched bulkhead connector. I deal with this onna a weekly basis it seems!

Here is the engine bay wiring schematic for an "early" Scout II.

 

[RobertC]

this happened once before and I wiggled the solinoid and it all came back. It was held on by one screw, which was part of my reason for moving it. It's now bolted down solid with 2 nuts/bolts. The wire from the battery is hot, but no power to anything else, and it won't turn over. The hot wire is on the same terminal that the wire from the battery is on, so it should have juice.
Thanks in advance for any input....

Based on your statement ("wiggling" it previously), you either have a "bad" solenoid or the ground is not good.

There also could be a "break" in the wire from the battery to the solenoid (on another vehicle, I had the crimped / spliced 10 - 12 gauge wire from the battery to the wiring harness pull out and everything went dead in the car.) I do not think this is relevant to IH wiring...

There is a picture of michael mayben's mounting of a solenoid in his s80 in this thread -- looks like it is mounted to a metal plate, then to the firewall.

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/electrical-tech/2753-Scout-80-big-resistor.html

As michael stated the bulkhead connectors are "problematic", though you did not state specifically that you did work on them.

 

[TXFireman]

Thanks, I'm on shift right now, when I get off in the morning I'm going home to check out the connectors and look for another fusable link that I May have missed. I'll update the status.

As I was was searching for this problem on here, I found several mentions of a coil wire that had to be a certain length. It's also refrenced on the diagram he posted for me. I'm 99.99% sure I have cut this wire. I'll post a pic with my updates, if anything just jumps out as a mistake, feel free to comment.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[RobertC]

The "fusible link" / "resistance wire" is "folded back on itself" in the stock wiring harness running along the pass side valve cover.

If you "look" long enough, I think michael mayben has posted a picture(s) of this wire.

What distributor do you have? Gold box?

Picture(s) will help michael...

I am assuming that the solenoid you refer to in post #1 is a "Ford solenoid" you added to the wiring???

 

[Michael Mayben]

The "coil wire" you are referencing is the feed to the ignition coil positive terminal when the ignition switch is in the "run" position.

That wire is a resistive element and if the correct length will measure a nominal resistance of 1.8ohms at 70*f.

That wire is noted as "circuit 16" in the schematic I posted. We have quite a few threads in the ignition sub-forum regarding how to handle problems regarding the "resistor wire" or it's first cousin...a ballast resistor.

There is another "resistor" wire used in the oem harness also, that wire run is circuit #1-18 inside the cab and transitions to circuit #1-24. That resistive circuit supplies current to the delcotron 10si alternator filed winding in order to "tickle" it to generate electricity, it serve the same purpose as an "idiot light" or charging circuit indicator lamp as discussed in this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/electrical-tech/2753-Scout-80-big-resistor.html

While that wire is needed for the ignition system to operate with the switch in the "run" position, it has nothing to do with not having current available to any other load.

Follow the current path from the battery positive terminal through the schematic and you will find your problem.

Attached is the cabin-side of the early sii wiring schematic.

 

[RobertC]

there is another "resistor" wire used in the oem harness also, that wire run is circuit #1-18 inside the cab and transitions to circuit #1-24. That resistive circuit supplies current to the delcotron 10si alternator filed winding in order to "tickle" it to generate electricity, it serve the same purpose as an "idiot light" or charging circuit indicator lamp as discussed in this thread:

I dug out my t/a manual and looked at the wiring diagram (had to use a magnifying glass ). I did not know there was a second "resistor" wire... Learned a little more...

 

[Michael Mayben]

the "fusible link" / "resistance wire" is "folded back on itself" in the stock wiring harness running along the pass side valve cover.

If you "look" long enough, I think michael mayben has posted a picture(s) of this wire.

What distributor do you have? Gold box?

Picture(s) will help michael...

I am assuming that the solenoid you refer to in post #1 is a "Ford solenoid" you added to the wiring???

A fusible link is not the same item as the primary ignition resistance wire. A fusible link serves the same purpose as a master fuse and May be repaired by crimping in a proper segment/gauge of replacement fusible link material. An alternative repair is to install a maxi-fuse/holder in the wire run instead of a repair segment of fusible link material. Fusible link material is available in pre-cut/packaged segments in each size or in bulk on spools by gauge.

The wiring diagram I posted does not reflect the later version Scout II which used either a Holley gold box or a prestolite electronic ignition system, the resistor wire is used only with a breaker point system. Gold box/prestolite wiring is different and reflected in a different schematic.