no change on fuel mixture

T

traveler

Member
Hello again.

Well we worked out all the bugs on our valves sticking (thanks michael)
and she runs smooth as silk...perfect vac... No more bend lifter rods...perfect oiling...we watched to make sure...etc..
Now - on the 2300 300 cfm.

I wanted to dial in the fuel mixture (we started with 1 turn open on both sides and new 65 power valve.

When I turned open the drivers side...she bogged (too much fuel)
so I backed her back down...and 1.5 turns open seemed best. No significant change on vac reading.

Oh yeah...choke seems to be needed for a long time...before we can open her up...like 10 15 minutes...she is fuel starved still...I think...

I went to passenger side...and no matter how open or closed I turned needle...there is absolutely no change in engine.

So I am thinking we are running a 1 barrel !

I rebuilt this myself...and checked flow on passages...so this seems odd.

We want to get this right....so I am wondering if anyone can give me advice.

Also...the throttel plate vac. (small port) has no vac...so I surmize I must of blocked it off with my thick gasket somehow ( we bought a thick one because the 2210 was boiling gas...the one we took off. We didn't want the new carb boiling gas too.

The only active vac (aside from large 1/2 in vac port on back of carb throttle plate) is up by metering block..on passenger side...and it shows vac under acceleration only...so we put that to the distributor..right?

We do have a small back fire in exhaust...but nothing out the top.

Thanks in advance!
John
 
Most likely you used an incorrect gasket between the throttle body and the main body. One or more holes are now blocked.

When choosing gaskets from an assortment for these carbs, you must match the holes perfectly with the old gasket. If you have no continuous manifold vacuum at the port nipple in the throttle body, that is a good indicator of blockage.

The vacuum port on the side of the metering block should show 0>3"hg with a correctly adjusted carb and correct curb idle speed. As engine rpm increases so does the ported vacuum signal in a linear fashion, exactly the opposite compared to manifold vacuum.

As for the "dead" passenger side of the carb, that is common. You have a dual plane intake manifold, each side of the 2v carb feeds only four cylinders, "some" (not all) of the intake manifolds do have a very small "equalizer" slot machined in between throttle bores to help balance the idle quality but that will not make up for a metering block that is plugged up with grunge internally.

So...look at the throttle body gasket selection again and match with the old gasket, you May have to make additional holes, that is very common. There were hundreds of variations of these 2300 carbs and at least seven variations of the gaskets I've found.

Your "two" issues are related, something is preventing proper vacuum signal and feed to the idle port and transfer slot on one side.
 
Thank you michael!

Well - we replaced the gasket..opened the port side passage..
Now the passenger side mixture screw has an effect on the carb.

But we are still stumped. In the garage..she runs perfect..smooth as silk...all that work paid off...quite valves...good oiling..and carb appears to be perfect...timing is also 9 before tdc...perfect.

No ping...no back fire..but..'
when you leave the line...she hesitates...alot!
Then with mild accelerator....there is jumping and lurching. Its only when you get on it she smooths out.

But cruzin at 65...that is the place where the throttle position has the hesitation or "flat spot"...but its not just a flat spot..its like fuel or air is getting in erradically...but how?

We took her back (keep in mind we have a new 65 pvalve...its good.

But now we can completely tighten the mixture screws...and she actually runs better...than open just 1/2 a turn.

So how on earth is this fuel getting in? Please don't tell me its a blown power valve...this is the second one we've installed!!

Im baffled...help!!!
 
Sorry I've overlooked a response!

My opinion is you still do not have the correct main body gasket installed. There is something going on with a blocked orifice.

Also, there are tiny "transition" holes in the metering block that are most likely grunged internally, same for the bleeds in the main body.

The plugs must be removed from the metering body to clean 'em deep inside. Then the holes have to be re-plugged after cleaning. Simply soaking in solvent, or blowing out with compressed air won't do anything for those conditions, surgery is the only answer.

Your description tells me that the "main" circuits are the issue, thus the starvation condition when the engine is under load, the power valve can't compensate for that.

A sudden wot actuates the accelerator pump system at any engine speed, that super-Rich condition momentarily overcomes the fuel starvation until the pump shot is consumed.

Also, has the fuel level in the bowl been adjusted with the engine running at idle? If not, it must be before any other adjustments are made.
 
Ya know...the time I've spent on thsi carb...the money...I shudda bought your new 2300 for my rig.

Michael...are your 2300 any different than a new 2300?
And what do they run on cost?
Thanks man
john
 
traveler said:
ya know...the time I've spent on thsi carb...the money...I shudda bought your new 2300 for my rig.

Michael...are your 2300 any different than a new 2300?
And what do they run on cost?
Thanks man
john
Click to expand...

A much less expensive option...would be to send your botched carb to us for a complete rebuild! And it will be tested for performance on a live motor before being returned!

Our "carb shop" prices are shown in this post:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/new-products-IH-only/3479-IH-only-north-fuel-systems-shop.html

Since obviously some of your parts are new, you will only be charged for actual parts used from our end, so the actual bottom-line cost could be a bit less.

As for the current price of a new Holley 2300 replacement carb that is fully dialed in for the IH application, you will have to contact ihon directly at 530.268.0864. A "typical" conversion kit is shown in this pic, you May or May not need everything in that kit so we custom assemble these items based upon customer need.
 

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Michael...we wanna get a manual choke since we already installed teh cable for it and removed the choke stove...this looks like electric...and I don't see a place to tie in to the wiring harness for that. I guess we could find a wire that comes on only when ignition is on...but I haven't a clue where?
John
 
The Holley 2300 conversions we do (list 7448) are only available from Holley with a manual choke.

We install an electric choke system ("kit") as part of our conversion package. But we can certainly supply a manual choke carb set up with our specs, the cost would be significantly reduced!

The electric choke requires an ignition-switched b+ feed that is hot anytime the engine is running. That connection should never be made to the ignition coil positive terminal however....never!

The engine harness on the sii that comes down the passenger side/top of the valve cover will normally have an "open" wire that is switched b+, in fact, the wire "usually" (but not always) has a connector on it that will plug right into the choke cap terminal. Use a test light to identify that wire after pulling the wrap off the harness.

Here's an open thread right now that involves a swap of an ihon-supplied 2300 conversion kit:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...s/5391-engine-CPT-vacuum-users-emissions.html

If you currently have a Holley 2300 on the rig and it has an air cleaner, then you do not need anything else. If someone is replacing a Holley 2210 with the 2300 conversion, then an air cleaner base with a 5-1/8" opening must be used, the 2210 air cleaner base opening is too small.
 
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