new motor won't run

S

scoutinn

New member
Hey guys I need your help. New motor, bearings,isky 256/262 cam, new tappets, umbrella seals, motorcraft 2150 (rebuilt), 10si alt, Holley dizzy w/hei coversion, autolite 85's 40 gap, oh ya 345. Manual choke is set, new battery, new starter. Tdc w/ valve cover off I verified number 8 valves were loose, closed. Even double checked and put the old paper in number 8 and popped it out, yep tdc. Would not run. Turn the dizzy a little, got it to run and did the 20 min break in. It wasn't pretty, it ran only with my foot on the gas. I've put the lisle spark on and got flashing, I have spark. New fuel pump ran from 5 gallon gas can w/new lines. I am at a loss. When got to run by making the carb open up manually got out and it was pinging so turned the dizzy tell it quieted down then died,and have fog in the carb. Some one save me please! This is one of my few posts and I just about live on this site. Scout boy, bill usn, someone please I am going crazy:out: thank you for your time...
 
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The key points from your description are...

After rotating the distributor some it lit off.

&

while it was running it was pinging/detonating.

Both of those point to your initial timing being out of whack. When you rotated the distributor, I'm guessing, that pushing it till the vac advance can bottomed against the even bank valve cover netted you the best results. Am I right there? That would be retarding the timing, but you can only go so far physically with your rotation. The pinging says your timing is too far advanced. This could be easily confirmed with a timing light. I think you left out an important step. You didn't say anything about carefully checking your reluctor position relative to which plug wire you chose to make #8 on the distributor cap while you were at tdcomp. Also, you didn't say whether you were confident in your plug wire routing being clockwise around the distributor as per the engine firing order.
 
Thanks for your reply. Yes the dizzy was more over to the even bank valve cover. I had issues trying to use the timing light because the only way it would run was to make it stay at around 1100 rpm, so when I used the light it looked like it was passed 20*. I double, even triple checked my reluctor with a straight edge and it is dead on in the middle of the rotor. I also made dang sure it was pointing directly at the post I chose to be number 8. I also double checked my wire routing in a clockwise fashion per what is casted on the manifold. Even ran #5 behind the carb.

One thing I noticed when it was at 0*tdc was it would start and lub lub lub lub die. So I checked the carb looking down in, and it was wet... And also looking at my accelerator pump arm was slightly touching the coolant housing. Also it smells of gas pretty strongly. Which makes me think, I need to make it be able to close, or go to its home. Also this is before I started rotating the dizzy to get it to start. Anything I can do to get the right info for you guys. Thank you..
 
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Sounds like multiple issues May be conspiring. Your fuel delivery setup definitely sounds suspect, but I think you're still too far advanced on your timing. Think of it this way...if you were going to dial in a few degrees of advance to the base timing of an engine that you knew for certain was set at 0 tdc to start with, and the idle was sitting at 750 rpms, increasing the engine speed by a scant 350 rpms to 1100 would not move the timing Mark from 0 to 20. At most it would maybe move it 3 or 4 degrees.
Its the #7 wire that gets routed behind the carb if you choose to do that, as it is the rear most slug on that side. That's the best way to keep it isolated from #5 for the length of the run.
 
Ok, I will definitely do a little flap disc on the water housing. Also I will bring back to tdc and try it again. I am at work right now. I will be back shortly. Thank you again.
 
Ok, so I still had the symptoms of it turning over and lub, lub, lub, lub. Dies. I thought maybe I had a intake manifold leak that I couldn't see. So I redid my intake manifold gasket, this time with the cherry picker so I could slowly lower it with out scoring the gasket. I used ultra copper around the ports and waited 24 hours before putting in fluid. Still no go. It starts and runs soooo poorly then dies. I said ok time for a compression test. #2-169 #4-152 #6-150 #8-152 #1-160 #3-158 #5-139 #7-135. I watched the gauge like a eagle. There wasn't any leaking. The only thing I can come up with is possibly the cam being wacked out or something. I put this motor together so carefully. I lined up the dots on the gears it was so easy, you know...I am beside myself. I even went as far as taking my hei conversion dizzy out and putting the points (delco remy) in to see if I made a mistake. Nadda. So the only thing I noticed was how the motor would start and run with more advancing. But it was too much started pinging. So I dont know. All I want to do is this be my daily driver I dont care about gas mileage I just want to drive this thing aaaagghhhhh:mad5: again thank you Scout boy and anyone who helps. I will give you a steak dinner for you family and barley pop.
 
Sorry you're having such a time with this. Wish I could be of more help. When you did the comp test, were all spark plugs removed and the throttle blocked open? None of the numbers are low, but the difference between the highest and lowest is 20%. Kind of odd, but maybe because the engine isn't fully broken in yet.
 
I did not block open the throttle plate. I will, maybe will be more even across the board. When I pumped up my lifters w/30w I installed them and all seemed fine. Maybe I'm going for a hail mary here but when the valve cover is off and I see that the spring is at its highest point I can slightly move the rocker, and feel the springy ness. On others its hard as a rock, even confirming on the other ones that the valve was closed. Could that cause my situation?
 
So I was able set the throttle plates open enough to get out of the rig and mess around. Was idling at 2000 rpms so put my hand over carb horn and full throttled it. Then it let up and idle went down to 1000 rpm. Was still ticking like my lifters aren't pumped up yet. Ran it for 20 or so mins. Oil pressure was at 50 when at 2000rpm, then around 30 at 1000. Maybe it will take a couple runs to pump lifters up. Idk, but at least its alive. Need to reset my float a little, then adjust more. Timing was at 10* thanks again for your help, I appreciate it.
 
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