Need help with my 72's Scout wire and ignition stuff.

Travis_Lassiter

Travis_Lassiter

Member
Alright so I have a 1972 Scout. 345; 5.7 l v8. 4x4, automatic tranny. I was driving and then wires burnt up under the hood. Main wire from my altenator and main wire from my starter both burned up all the way to the bulk head connector, and then from there to the back of my "alt / fuel" gauge. Those are the only two burnt wires. No otheres had damage. Some fuses popped during that incedent. I put a new altenator in my truck along with a new starter syloniod. I put new fuses in the fuse pannle, and I re-wired new wires to replace the burn ones. Instead of using another bulkhead connector; I just wired it striaght without a connector. I re charged my battery and hooked everything up. I turn the key over to find "nothing" happens. Didn't try to turn over, no clicking, or noises what so ever. Only thing that happend is that when I turned the key; I had tail lights, brakes and hazards. No blinkers or headlights.. What could be wrong with it?
 
Connected to the starter are the main battery cable and two other wires that go up into the system, chances are you popped the fusible links that are down near the starter. The big 10 gauge wires will have what looks like a butt connector then drop down to 14 or 16 gauge wire. Thats your fusible link. Cut them off and replace them or just take them out. But if you take them out you need to use a big maxi fuse or some sort of fuse to protect the system.
I'm sure someone else will chime in but chances are the root of your issue starts there.
 
I put a new ignition switch on my Scout, now when I trun my key, it trys to start up. It will crank over and crank over but will not fire. It seems as if I have no spark. I put on a brand new coil, and still no spark. Any help with that?
 
One more time....

1) you need a "start"wire from the ignition switch start terminal to the coil positive terminal.

2) you need a "run" wire from the ignition switch run terminal through either a ballast wire (which is an oem part) or an aftermarket "ballast resistor (again, 1.4>1.8ohms) to the coil positive terminal.

At that point, if the rest of the electrical system is complete as far as the ignition system is concerned, it will run.
 
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