• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

My Traveler Ride

cbmind

Member
Thanks! Recently completed my front bumper. Has tow points, incorporates the Warn winch, nothing fancy. Here's some pictures. Mostly made of 11 gauge plate/ sheet, middle of it is made of 1/4" with a 3/8" plate for the winch mount.
 

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cbmind

Member
Winch and New Front Bumper in Action!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFO6pcYDgAc&t=38s

Here's the winch and bumper in action! Got my 28 horse Cub Cadet 7260 thoroughly stuck. Had to double line the cable to get enough power to drag it out. Video doesn't do the pull justice. Front wheels of the tractor were buried in dirt. Couldn't see the top of them.
 

cbmind

Member
Tri Y Header Repair

So I heard the start of what sounded like an exhaust leak weeks ago. Got to work, look at the header to exhaust connection, and the collector had rotted off the end of the 4 header tubes at the collector flange! Lesson- don't wrap your headers unless you absolutely need to. Here's some pics.

Instead of replacing, I decided to patch and weld up what I had. I cut it apart at the header flange, cleaned best I could, then back welded the tubes individually to the collector flange, patched a hole in one tube, then welded it all back together. Took about two hours.

Not sure how long the rest of this header will last. The tubes are getting pretty thin. I've since bought factory OE replacement cast iron manifolds as replacements. May use them, may not. Ideally, I'd like to build a set of SS headers. We'll see. THis got me back on the road.
 

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cbmind

Member
Tri Y Header Repair Part 2

I realized I didn't post the fix. Here's some photos. Don't wrap your headers in anything. If a heat shield is needed, I'll use/ make metal shields next time.

You can see the damage. I cut some 16 gauge exhaust piping sections and patched away in two spots, then welded the hell out of it. I couldn't have done this without the MIG.

Got me back on the road for now.

Headers aren't worth it for me. Loud exhaust, PITA maintenance, flanges loosen up, flanges warp. Look cool for a while though.

Next time I do major engine work, I'll install the replacement cast headers I got.
 

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cbmind

Member
Need Tips on Installing Front Dana 60

Anyone with experience?

It's one of those things where I don't need it, but couldn't pass it up. I bought a D60 DRW front Chevy D60 for $150 with matching 4.10 gears to my GM C&C rear. Good shape mostly.

So far I've turned down and modified the DRW hubs to SRW dimensions.

Have a low buck high steer springless high steer arms. Both may not be needed.

Have the 2 1/2" front hangers for reverse shackle.

Have some J20 7 leaf front spring packs, need new bushings.

Have a leaf spring D60 front swap kit that includes spring plates, hardware, shock tabs.

Have some Chevy D60 front 3/4T disc brake swap brake caliper mounts to use my current 3/4T 8 lug brake setup (late 70s Chevy fronts).

I'll build a new tie rod and drag link using factory 1T GM TREs.

My front axle WMS currently is around 60 1/2" with the Scout D44 and Chevy brake and hub. My rear axle is at 63 1/2" WMS GM C&C 14 bolt.

I'm thinking of not shortening the front D60. I believe it will be at 69" WMS once assembled. A few inches wider each side compared to the rear. It's good to be wider on the front than the rear anyway. Helps outfits track better in my experience.

I run 17x9 8 lug wheels with 4 3/4" backspacing. I think it will be fine. Save on axle shaft cost anyways.

I plan to remove the front D44 axle, unbolt the reverse shackles and set them aside, cut off the old front reverse shackle 2" wide fangs and clean everything up. I'm going to cut off all the bracketry on the D6, bolt up the Jeep front leafs, and roll it under there to see what I've got.

I guess the only unknown is what I'll need to button up the steering- tie rod and drag link (I'm currently using a Wagoneer pitman arm) and what do I do about a driveshaft.

Is a front CV driveline best or stick with a u joint shaft? I run a NP241C and TH4L60 behind my 345. NP241C has a 4 bolt drive flange on it (factory 91 Chevy Blazer I think).

Opinions welcomed. Thanks.
 

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cbmind

Member
Installed Detroit Locker in Rear

Got around to installing the Detroit locker in the GM 14-bolt rear end.

Also swapped my cab and chassis hubs for srw hubs, to give extra width for the Dana 60 front swap. Required different disc brake brackets, welded in place.

Reused my old Chevy half-ton calipers, bought and installed replacement brake flex line as the outer protective sleeves were cracked.

The locker installation was easier than I thought it would be. It took me about 6 hours total, between swapping the hubs and installing the locker.

Still need to do something about lower shock mounts as the locations need to change because I swapped disc brake brackets.

With swapping hubs, welding on new disc brake brackets, and installing the locker, it took me about eight hours total.
 

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cbmind

Member
Attached is a driver side view of the new SRW installation. Shows the revised disc brake bracket, offset of SRW compared to the DRW.

I used Dorman 610-283 wheel studs. Actually, I reused them.

New wheel bearings, races, seals, etc were installed in the SRW hubs. New rotors, reused old calipers as previously noted.
Capture.JPG
Capture.JPG
 

cbmind

Member
Attached are pics of slider boxes I'll be using in lieu of traditional shackles on the front suspension. These will be in a reverse shackle style configuration. If they work out well, I may duplicate them to use for the rear.

Front suspension will be Jeep OEM Wagoneer 7 leaf packs O" lift, Chevy D60, CPT front leaf reverse shackle spring mounts, slider boxes for the rear mounts, Bilstein shocks, 90s F350 front shock towers, urethane bump stops, undecided what make and model.
 

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