MM! Help with nagging miss Please!

No not a nagging mrs. I don't have one of those, but while chasing the annual Binder Bee ingition miss, I discovered something interstesting. Put yer brain to work on this and let me know if the two are related...

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The plugs in the top row are the odd #'s and the bottom are the even. 1 -7 -4 -6 are lean and the others are Rich(er)
so wtf? Dual plane maniford syndrome?
I changed the plugs and checked the wires and she stll misses like nothing changed!
 
Hell man...I meant ta go listen to the motor!!!

Bottom, left plug in the pic is the dead hole...

Stick jen's finger in that hole with it running and see if she can read the compression...otherwise use a compression gauge and see whatcha got.

Yer right...a dual plane manifold will show up slight variations in plug color based upon distance from the plenum to the combustion chamber, but that's inconsequential in the big picture. The rest of the plug colors look just right from here...all a bit Rich but we need to put on the gas analyzer to tell for sure.

Iirc the carb is either the oem-style afb or an edelbrock clone???

Since it'sa chrysler electronic ignition it'll fire right thru a big gob of crap on the plug electrode. And if one half the carb was grunged, the three cylinders on that plane would also be acting up.

With one dead/weak hole (and ya changed the badly fouled plug out with no change), I'd say it's compression/valve timing related. Check compression on the dead one and adjacent cylinder, also look for broken valve spring/sticking valve/bent pushrod...just like this stuff that affects the IH sv motors. Pop the valve cover and take a looksee at #1 stuff and tell us whatcha find compression-wise.

In this situation, I'd actually screw the compression gauge in and start the motor for an instant to see whatcha got.

If ya gotta vacuum gauge, rig that up also to manifold vacuum, if it's compression-related, the needle is gonna oscillate wildly.

I can't remember onna "b" block...is this the cylinder number sequence??:

cylinder numbering (from drivers seat, front to rear)
1-3-5-7 left, 2-4-6-8 right

and firing order is??:

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2...same as an IH sv motor?

Oh yeah...is the miss a "dead miss" all the time??? Or does it seem to come alive once the revs come up? Have ya pulled the plug boot on that cylinder to verify it's dead even at higher rpm?
 
I think there is a stuck valve on #8. The one you identified as the dead hole. I'm gonna do a comp test tomorrow to confirm. I knew that was the problem hole as soon as I saw the plug.
The weird factor here is that this problem developed overnite. It ran fine when parked and started missing in the am.
The vac gauge is steady at 14"hg at idle. The miss is less severe at higher rpms and not noticeable under load and at cruise.
The idle speed "surges" below 1500.

You are correct on the firing order and numbering sequence.
 
I think there is a stuck valve on #8. The one you identified as the dead hole. I'm gonna do a comp test tomorrow to confirm. I knew that was the problem hole as soon as I saw the plug.
The weird factor here is that this problem developed overnite. It ran fine when parked and started missing in the am.
The vac gauge is steady at 14"hg at idle. The miss is less severe at higher rpms and not noticeable under load and at cruise.
The idle speed "surges" below 1500.

You are correct on the firing order and numbering sequence.

Entirely possible due to lack of regular exercise!

If a valve is sticking/stuck it'll be real obvious. Ya can run it for a minute or two without the valve cover in place to observe but it will sling sum oil.

Don't remember if that motor has a cam or is it straight out of the '65 whatever?? If it'sa stocker, then manifold vac oughta be at least 18"hg.

I don't "think" the b blocks are "crashers" (where if a valve is stuck down, the piston will whack it and bend the tulip resulting in non-seating).

Let's just see whatcha got before conjecturing!
 
Satiddy am update:
I'm ready to shoot this sumbitch.
In an act of desperation I dumped 2 qts of wd-40 in the oil yesterday, let her run for about 1/2 an hour. Then went in and had a couple of double scotch on the rocks, contemplated dynamite or a fuel fire, then forgot about it.

Went out this am dug out the compression tester, then decided to see if the situation had improved any. Shit! She runs great!

The moral of the story: scotch works great! In your darkest hours you should turn to glenfiddish!!!
 
Ya know...alternative therapy does sumtimes work.

And trever and his imaginary friend inna bottle (our own fwb mascot and mentor, sailor jerry) always comes through for him in similar diagnostic sessions!

Mo needs sum solvent in her circulatory system, jerry or mont gay is the hot tickee..but save her oil when ya drain her and be sure to recycle over rocks.

At least mo is oilin'...half tha dam sv motors out there in tha wurld ain't!!!
 
I'm convinced the exhaust valve on #8 was stickin' some.
Ain't gonna worry about it now...

Some day I'll show how to diagnose a sticking valve as shown to me by an real old oldtimer.
 
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I'm convinced the exhaust valve on #8 was stickin' some.
Ain't gonna worry about it now...

Some day I'll show how to diagnose a sticking valve as shown to me by an real old oldtimer.

"oldtimer" methodology...does that involve removing the valve cover and havin' a mule piss on the rocker arms!!! Oldtimer upper cylinder lubrication system???
 
"oldtimer" methodology...does that involve removing the valve cover and havin' a mule piss on the rocker arms!!! Oldtimer upper cylinder lubrication system???

No, it involves a piece of paper, no need to remove anything.

Another oldtimer I know recomends fresh pork rinds for those problem old school roller bearings. Haven't tried that one though.
 
Terry, whatever you do, don't let glenny f go for a walk by hisseff on fisherman's wharf. Sailor jerry wouldn't think twice 'bout shanghyin some uppity scotsman.
 
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