Master Cylinder Suggestions Please!
- Thread starter Beluga
- Start date
My brakes were grabbing like a mo fo.
Then I took a closer look at the mc. If I am not mistaking, this mc is for discs up front and drums in the back.
I have drums all around.
1. Isn't this the issue?
2. What suggestions for a great mc should I use when I pull this one.
Any other advice is very welcome.
Craig
Then I took a closer look at the mc. If I am not mistaking, this mc is for discs up front and drums in the back.
I have drums all around.
1. Isn't this the issue?
2. What suggestions for a great mc should I use when I pull this one.
Any other advice is very welcome.
Craig
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
There is no way to tell by looking at the outside of the master cylinder. My all drum brake 68 travelette has a master that looks the same as yours and it works fine.
You'll need to buy a master that is specified for your brake setup to eliminate the master design.
As you say, if it is for sure a disk brake master, I suppose the line pressure split could be wrong and over energizing the front brakes.
Here you go. Take your pick.
http://www.IHPartsAmerica.com/store/mc.html
You'll need to buy a master that is specified for your brake setup to eliminate the master design.
As you say, if it is for sure a disk brake master, I suppose the line pressure split could be wrong and over energizing the front brakes.
Here you go. Take your pick.
http://www.IHPartsAmerica.com/store/mc.html
Thanks Robert, I appreciate the response.
I am a newbie, so there is a lot I don't know. I read and was told that with all brake drums, the dual chambers on the master cylinder would be the same size. This might not be true, and based upon what you have in yours, seems to prove it isn't true. But even looking at the link you send, all the master cylinders for applications with disc brakes up front appear to have a larger chamber for the front than for the drums in the back. The ones with drums all around, have what appears to be, equal size chambers. Including the one Mike mayben suggested for a 73.
As you know, my brake set-up was a single chamber master cylinder, so going back to the original setup, which would be "correct" for my setup, imho. Is a mistake in safety.
Of course, I am looking at this grossly and I know there much more at play that simple chamber size. So I appreciate your help and continue try to learn more and to look for a solution!
I am a newbie, so there is a lot I don't know. I read and was told that with all brake drums, the dual chambers on the master cylinder would be the same size. This might not be true, and based upon what you have in yours, seems to prove it isn't true. But even looking at the link you send, all the master cylinders for applications with disc brakes up front appear to have a larger chamber for the front than for the drums in the back. The ones with drums all around, have what appears to be, equal size chambers. Including the one Mike mayben suggested for a 73.
As you know, my brake set-up was a single chamber master cylinder, so going back to the original setup, which would be "correct" for my setup, imho. Is a mistake in safety.
Of course, I am looking at this grossly and I know there much more at play that simple chamber size. So I appreciate your help and continue try to learn more and to look for a solution!
Reservoir size has nothing to do with brake performance. Hydraulic brakes work off of hydraulics; the ease or hardness of braking is down to master cylinder bore vs wheel cylinder bore which also includes stroke or piston travel. Within limitations of drum/wheel size, vehicle weight, etc, boosters make the job easier by keeping pedal effort in a "comfort" range.
The oem master cylinder bore needs to be known so replacements or upgrades are appropriate to the existing wheel cylinders for the stock brake performance or feel. Many parts listings will spec bore size or step bore size. There's no disc/drum, disc/disc, drum/drum, distinction in master cylinders themselves from a hydraulics standpoint. It's the system that determines it with auxillary parts such as metering valves, proportion valves, or all together in a combo valve. Some master cylinders do lend themselves to these systems by their bore/stroke configuration; but nothing special in and of themselves other than the larger reservoir for the disc side gives enough reserve fluid as the pads do not retract like shoes and the volume accounts for pad wear without frequently adding fluid.
A 20 minute read on basic hydraulics, and the "lever" action of it, will help a whole lot on how to keep these brakes in good shape without guess work and money down a rat hole.
The oem master cylinder bore needs to be known so replacements or upgrades are appropriate to the existing wheel cylinders for the stock brake performance or feel. Many parts listings will spec bore size or step bore size. There's no disc/drum, disc/disc, drum/drum, distinction in master cylinders themselves from a hydraulics standpoint. It's the system that determines it with auxillary parts such as metering valves, proportion valves, or all together in a combo valve. Some master cylinders do lend themselves to these systems by their bore/stroke configuration; but nothing special in and of themselves other than the larger reservoir for the disc side gives enough reserve fluid as the pads do not retract like shoes and the volume accounts for pad wear without frequently adding fluid.
A 20 minute read on basic hydraulics, and the "lever" action of it, will help a whole lot on how to keep these brakes in good shape without guess work and money down a rat hole.
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