Machine Shops w/IH Experience in Massachusetts?

[77SSII]

Thanks Robert!
So I'll take the cap off the #8 rod and crank the motor over by hand to pull the crank away from the rod? Will I need to persuade anything to come off? Once the cap is off and the rod is off the crank, how easy should the bearings come off or do I leave them on?
I'll snap some pix and post next week.
What exactly should I be looking for?
When the cap goes back on, is there any orientation of the bearing on the crank?
Do you think the piston will want to fall out the block?
Now, I'm being lazy, what is the torque spec for putting the cap back on?

 

[Robert Kenney]

thanks Robert!
So I'll take the cap off the #8 rod and crank the motor over by hand to pull the crank away from the rod? Will I need to persuade anything to come off? Once the cap is off and the rod is off the crank, how easy should the bearings come off or do I leave them on?
I'll snap some pix and post next week.
What exactly should I be looking for?
When the cap goes back on, is there any orientation of the bearing on the crank?
Do you think the piston will want to fall out the block?
Now, I'm being lazy, what is the torque spec for putting the cap back on?

Before you remove the cap, do you have a reliable torque wrench? You will need to torque the rod cap when you replace it.

The cap won't go on backwards. The trick is cleanliness. Keep your hands clean like you were going to pick up your sandwitch to eat. The rod I photographed and bearings came out of my Scout after I rolled in new bearings and drove the crap out of it . The wear shown if probably 5000 miles on California freeways turning 3800 rpm due to my low rear end gears. I have since installed an overdrive and 32" tires so fw speeds are way easier.

I took a few pics of a 152 rod (others similar) and added some text to make your job easier. Always helps to know ahead of time what you will see. Any questions ask away.

Once the cap is off you should be able to push on the rod with the butt of a hammer or a wood dowel and slip it up the bore a tad (no more that the thickness of a hack saw blade .030). Makes rolling the bearing back in easier.

Use your finger nail to feel for any deep scratches in the crank journal. No noticeable variations in diameter/step should be noticeable. Amazing what a finger tip can pick up when run across a smooth surface.

 

[77SSII]

Thanks so much Robert.
So, I'll remove the cap an check on the bottom 1/2 of the crank for any imperfections. The top 1/2 is going to have to go unchecked?
Push up on the con rod about 0.030" just to be able to "turn" the rod bearing out. I'll check it for uneven wear as well as color.
If everything looks ok, I'll put the bearing back in and re-install the cap.
The cap bolts are long enough to grab the con rod that is 0.030" away?
Should I clean out the bolt holes on the con rod before torquing them down?
What is the torque value for those?
Once this is done, can I put the pan back on and just drive the thing?
Do I have to worry about wrist pins or anything else?
Thanks!

 

[77SSII]

Ok, just removed the cap and I took some pix. The bearings look ok as far as color and feel. I can't feel anything on either bearing. The crank felt great too. Nice and shiny w/no markings.
Please let me know your thoughts.
picasa web albums - 10772221827797118... - con rod bearings

I put the cap back on and only tightened them snug w/the 8" 1/2" drive. I will get the torque spec and tighten appropriately. If this con rod was the "loosest" front to back (no up & down motion) am I good to go or should they all be inspected? I'm inclined to just drive the darn thing at this point. It has been down a month already.
Should I clean the threads before torquing?
Thanks guys!

 

[Robert Kenney]

They look great really. If it were mine I'd put her back together and like you said drive it.

The oil on the threads is fine and probably perfered as the torques in the manual are developed for engine oil lubricated threads. Clean the clamping faces of the rod and cap, the backs
of the bearing shells so they are as free of oil as pissible. The bearing wear faces should have oil on them though.

If the rod bearings look that good I would say you are goot to go.

 

[77SSII]

Sweet!
Thanks Robert.
I used assembly lube for the cap bearing but I got a little excited and put lube on both sides of the con rod bearing! I figured it would help me slide 'er in like a gentlemen. Should I take it out and try to clean the con rod side a bit? Maybe push the piston up the bore and wipe the bearing area w/a new rag?
I just bought a stethoscope and will remove the valve covers again and give all 8 sets a listenen' too.

Guys thanks again for all of your awesome help! Without all of you guys I'd be searching for another machine shop to take me over the barrel.
I belong to an f-150 forum and they don't have a unified front like you guys. There is stuff going all over the place and everyone puts in their two cents (after having admitted to an oil change being their biggest mechanical adventure).

I will keep you posted as to how it runs and if I find anything I'll let you know.

Until the next funny noise/smell/vibration, etc......

 

[Robert Kenney]

The extra lube won't kill the deal but just good practice not to have oil in the non bearing side of the shell. Dry aids in the shell staying in place and biting in to the rod when clamped down.