Low compression on #2 cylinder 345 only 42,000 miles

paradox78

New member
I have been restoring a 78 Scout II that was abandoned in the desert and hadn't been started since it was left there 21 years ago .the sun took its toll on paint and and all plastics that were exposed to the sun but other than that this rig only had 42,000 miles on it and only one owner before me.

I started with some body work and basic engine tune ups as well as some engine cosmetics, powder coating with my new set up.

I finally fired it up a few weeks ago and have been putting it around town a bit probably less than 100 miles since I started it the first time. It seemed to run fine as far I could tell until my prestolite dist. Burnt out and I had to replace it with a points dist. In doing so. I replaced plugs since I didn't do it the first time around and while the plugs were out I went ahead and done a compression test on all cylinders and all but 1 were around 145 to 150 psi but cylinder #2 was only at 90 psi so I reinstalled all the plugs gaped @ 35
(old stock ac 45 plugs) . When I pull any plug wire the engine bogs down but when I pull the #2 plug wire no difference is heard so I checked for spark on the #2 plug and it is getting plenty of spark. I thought it May have been in the valves but I done a leak down test with 120 psi into #2 cylinder and it was not valves . The cylinder will not hold any air for any amount of time??????? So I am assuming it is rings so this is what I am asking

seeing as how it is a 42,000 mile motor and all the cylinders are almost identical in reading, high 140's to 150 psi it isn't likely that I have a cracked or worn out ring is it ??? I am guessing it is only stuck right??? Is there any way to verify or unstick a ring with out removing the piston

if so how do I get it unstuck ? I have soaked it over night in marvel mystery oil to no avail.

Ideas please I really don't want to tear this thing down . Is there anything else it May be ideas please
 
A leak down test is not about the cylinder holding air it is about a calibrating the leakage. The air is supplied into the cylinder through a small jet or calibrated orifice. The air on the downstream side of the jet is monitored on a gauge in psi or %.

Seeing as you don't have the proper leak down rig,
do your test again. But first put the low cylinder at exactly tdc compression stroke for that cylinder and apply the air again. If it is off of tdc to far the engine will spin 1/2 a turn so stak clear of any normaly spinning/moving parts

then listen to the carburetor while open, then remove the oil fill cap and listen and last listen to the exhaust. You will hear the air leaking and that will point to your problem.

Noise at:
oil fill = rings
carb = intake valve
exhaust= exhaust valve.
Water blowing out the over flow hose= head gasket.

No noise= flat cam or bent pushrod.
 
Robert sure has good information for you! :cornut:

if your story is correct I would guess you cracked a ring the first time you turned the engine over in 20 years... Hope it's an easier fix for you though...
 
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