leaking 196

M

Maughan

Member
I could use info regarding my leaking 196. Im kind of new to IH trucks and motors. Ive got a 1967 Scout 800. I have replaced the gaskets on the top end of the motor and I still have a fairly significant leak. I was wondering about any tricks to getting this thing sealed up.
Also, I don't find any pcv system on this motor, so is that my problem, and what should the pcv system look like on a 1967 196?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Where is the oil leaking from? You May need to take it to the quarter wash and clean the old oil off engine to see where the new oil shows up.
 
If there's supposed to be a pcv valve on the engine that is about where it would be. Unless it's on the valve cover. Either way the pcv/flame arrester/ road tube system needs to be open and functioning or you'll blow oil out of the engine all over the place.

I once had the flame arrester plug up on my Scout II and when towing trailer up hill it blew oil out the dip stick tube all over the engine and exhaust. I don't know what is supposed to be on that engine to help you. But I'd sure check the easy things first before pulling the intake and valley pan to find that wasn't the problem.
 
Is that true? I've been told I don't need the flame arrester, I just need a crankcase breather. I've looked and I don't have ether. Can anyone send me some pictures of what it should look like on a 1967 Scout 800 196?
 
http://www.binderplanet.com/photopost/data/500/picture1.jpg

I hope this picture can help. Look closely and you will see a brass tee in the intake manifold. One side of it is connected to the vacuum/fuel pump; the other side is connected to the pcv valve just below it. There is a fitting on the lifter cover with a hose on it that connects to the pcv valve.

On the rocker cover(valve cover) there should be a hole for a fitting such as a hose fitting or a flame arrester/hose fitting to connect a hose between it and the air cleaner for the carburetor. Usually it is a rubber ringed bung type of deal you stuff the fitting in; some also used a screw in bung on the cover the fitting was screwed into. You can also use an oil filler cap designed for a hose connection or just a screened "breather" style oil filler cap. The difference is this: with a breather style oil fill cap and a pcv valve, your pcv system will be an "open" one that allows crankcase fumes to exit to the outside when the engine is under full load.

Having the air cleaner connected to the cover through a hose connection, with something for a flame arrestor in conjunction with a pcv valve, makes it a "closed" system in that regardless of engine load, crankcase fumes are burned rather than dumped to the atmosphere. The flame arrestor is to keep backfires from getting into the crankcase. With no more road draft tubes and breathers, the pcv system is the only way an engine can breathe and expel blowby and other fumes; just a breather fitting on top or a breather style oil fill cap is not enough.


I hope this helps your leak problem. Another thing you can try is an oil uv dye. The dye colors the oil so you can pick up on leaks viewing with a uv light source. Most of the lights they sell didn't do me any good. I found the best luck with a 40w light, but they ain't cheap but they sure work even in dim background light.
 
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Don't bet tha all 67's came with a pcv system or that the engine is a 67. Depends on state etc. Early ones had a vented oil filler cap and a large vent tube that went to the valley cover aka draft tube. So long as you have a vent on the engine you won't develop pressure to push oil past a sealed gasket.

The tin covers get all bent up from over tightening. Always flatten the flanges with a wood block and hammer when re gasketing or they will leak again.
 
My lifter cover has no bung or vent tube its one solid piece. I also have a solid valve cover with no vent or bung. I do have a breather oil filler cap. Nothing is hooked up to the vacuum port on the intake manifold.
Ive been reading a lot on this forum and by what I see that dosn't look right.
 
Something is missing. The engine should either have a pcv or a road draft tube. The tube was unmistakable, it was a big honker hanging down the driver side of the engine under the carb/manifold. Maybe your engine has some swapped tin on it.

My history is sketchy; I know IH used pcv on big engines going back to the early fifties or late forties, CA mandated a pcv system in '61, and I thought by '65 or '66 it was a federal deal for all vehicles.
 
So here's my question, if I have a valve cover with a bung and a pcv valve (rebuildable). Can I just run a hose from it over to the intake manifold? Will that take care of it?
 
You probably have an industrial engine like a stationary replacement unit.

To answer your vent question you could leave it as is, the cap is enough. If you do desire. Pcv setup do as you say and install a vc with a place to take a pcv valve and plumb it to manifold vacuum. It'll draw fine through the cap.
 
maughan said:
so here's my question, if I have a valve cover with a bung and a pcv valve (rebuildable). Can I just run a hose from it over to the intake manifold? Will that take care of it?
Click to expand...

That will take care of half of it.

You still need a way for fresh, clean air to enter the crank case and provide a way for any blow-by that exceeds what the pcv system can handle to escape. A filtered and vented cap on the filler can do it or a sealed cap into the air cleaner is even better. This assumes you have one of the large diameter fill tubes and not a cap on the valve cover.

My '71 travelette with a 345 has a bung on each valve cover. One side has a pcv valve with a hose to the intake manifold and the other side has a flame arrestor with a hose to the air cleaner.

The '74 Scout 345 has a pcv valve in the lifter valley pan and 1 valve cover with a bung that has a flame arrestor with a hose to the air cleaner.
 
Thanks a lot. Ive just got such an oil leak, even after replacing the gasket at the lifter cover, it made me suspicious of pressure causing it.
Is there a trick I should know about when replacing the gasket? It seems pretty straight forward to me.
 
Start with the valve cover and make sure the sealing surface is clean and flat. If dimpled around the bolts gently use a hammer to flatten the sealing surface.

Next there are 2 types of gasket cork and rubber. I like the cork best. Clean all oil from mating surfaces with carb cleaner on a rag. Give the gasket a light coat of silicone sealant. Install valve cover with the bolts just lightly snugged up. Wait 24 hours and tighten to spec.
 
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