IHON Extended Shock Tower question

jauringer

Member
Hey guys, got my order in a few days ago and it looks great. Can't wait to get it all installed!

I noticed that the typical installation of the shock towers requires cutting the inner fenders. In a perfect world, I would like to figure out a way to keep from doing that.

What do you guys think about me creating an offset mount to the frame so the tower just clears the inner fender? It looks like the bracket would need to push it around 3'' off the frame.

Let me know what you think, I appreciate the help.

Thanks,
jason
 
We've tucked them in on the inside of the inner fender without trimming the inner with good success in the past. You do have to cut the bottom few inches off of the bottom of the shock towers in order to squeeze it in there. With the skinnier Bilstein shock which mounts with the body in the upper section it all fits right in there.
 
we've tucked them in on the inside of the inner fender without trimming the inner with good success in the past. You do have to cut the bottom few inches off of the bottom of the shock towers in order to squeeze it in there. With the skinnier Bilstein shock which mounts with the body in the upper section it all fits right in there.

Hey Jeff, thanks for getting to me so quickly. That sounds like a great option. My sweet new bling won't be out for the world to see but I think that's a compromise I can live with. :wink5:

thanks a bunch,
jason
 
No problem. Make sure where you mount them to the axle it is as wide as you can go so that they somewhat look like this when looking from the front - / \. This should help prevent the shock body from getting dented on the frame rail when twisting out the suspension.
 
no problem. Make sure where you mount them to the axle it is as wide as you can go so that they somewhat look like this when looking from the front - / \. This should help prevent the shock body from getting dented on the frame rail when twisting out the suspension.


Ahh, ok. That helps me understand why an offset mount wouldn't work. There wouldn't be any room to do the above. Cool thanks,
jason
 
Would you post a picture of your final set up for me, jason? I am looking into these as well and also do not want to cut any sheet metal from my Scout. I am curious how modifying the set up like this works out for you. Thanks,

jared

Jeff,
if you're reading this, I am looking into doing the CPT reverse shackle, 2.5" wide springs, with the long travel shocks. I would like to stay SUA and keep the original axle. What modification would this take other than just the spring and shackle mounts? I would also like to stay around my current ride height (4" lift springs, 4" shackles). Thanks
 
would you post a picture of your final set up for me, jason? I am looking into these as well and also do not want to cut any sheet metal from my Scout. I am curious how modifying the set up like this works out for you. Thanks,

jared

Jeff,
if you're reading this, I am looking into doing the CPT reverse shackle, 2.5" wide springs, with the long travel shocks. I would like to stay SUA and keep the original axle. What modification would this take other than just the spring and shackle mounts? I would also like to stay around my current ride height (4" lift springs, 4" shackles). Thanks

Honestly our long travel works best in a SOA conversion. It will with extra work fit on a spring under set up but you will want to go with our highest arched spring in order to keep the suspension height close to the same.spring perch modification on the passenger side will be needed. The wider leafsprings push the ubolts into the differential cover so extra grinding is needed to make that work. Or the other method is to go with a wider leafspring track width to get those inner passenger side ubolts away from the cover.
 
Thanks Jeff. My issues with SOA:

1. I definitely want to stay SUA rear. I do not believe this can be done with SOA front, but if so, I'm all ears. Maybe it is because SUA rear negates benefits of SOA front?
2. I don't mind giving up a little bit of travel for reduced body roll in city/hwy driving.
3. I believe even a flat spring SOA will make my Scout sit higher than it is (which I don't want). Currently has 4" lift, 4" shackles.
4. I believe there is a possiblility of axle wrap/hop on the front in 4wd with SOA.

If these issues can be mitigated or are incorrect, I would strongly consider SOA on the front.
 
Hey jared, sorry I never saw your post. I guess spam got the email. Anyway, it looks like Jeff got you taken care of but I'll be happy to post a couple pics when I'm done.

Have a good one.
Jason
 
I am also interested in this. I was thinking of welding the bent bottom portion to the frame and then just cutting a small portion of the wheel well out possibly. Are you saying to cut off the bottom portion so that the mount is straight, then tuck it inside the fender in the engine bay?

Also, how important is it to gusset the back of the mounts? Is bolting and/or welding enough for our boxed in frames to hold the stress of the longer mount?
 
I am also interested in this. I was thinking of welding the bent bottom portion to the frame and then just cutting a small portion of the wheel well out possibly. Are you saying to cut off the bottom portion so that the mount is straight, then tuck it inside the fender in the engine bay?

Also, how important is it to gusset the back of the mounts? Is bolting and/or welding enough for our boxed in frames to hold the stress of the longer mount?

Yes to your first question. As for your second question we like to add a pair of gussets from the back side of the shock tower to the top of the frame rail for added rigidity to the tower itself.
 
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