Ignitor III install help

ben

New member
I purchased an pertonix ignitor iii to go in my 1975 II w/304. Ive searched the old posts and was wondering and this May be nominated for stoopid question of the year, does the ignitoriii replace my gold box? I havent started hook up yet just doing my homework before ups shows up!
Thanks!
 
I purchased an pertonix ignitor iii to go in my 1975 II w/304. Ive searched the old posts and was wondering and this May be nominated for stoopid question of the year, does the ignitoriii replace my gold box? I havent started hook up yet just doing my homework before ups shows up!
Thanks!


The pertronix iii unit for an ihc/Holley distributor is a very recent product offering from pertronix. Are you certain that is what you have ordered and what is the part number for the unit?

We don't have any information here in the forum regarding the installation of an actual p-iii in a gold box distributor.
 
I called tech support for pertronix and they sold me a 7ho-181 for my Holley gold box ignition
 
Its an ignitor iii part number.

Just a positive wire for power with key "on" and a negative wire for the negative side of the coil right?
 
Black wire goes to neg side of the coil. The red wire depends on the situation.

1. What coil are you running with it?

2. Are you still using stock wiring?

Jason
 
black wire goes to neg side of the coil. The red wire depends on the situation.

1. What coil are you running with it?

2. Are you still using stock wiring?

Jason

Im using a flame thrower iii coil and I guess I can use the original wire or customize, whatever is best.
 
Cool. If you've got the flame thrower coil and standard ignition wire here's what you need to do.

Run the black ignitor wire to the neg side of the coil. Run the red wire to the positive side of the coil.

The original ignition wire from the fire wall connected to the positive side of the coil is a resistance wire. The flame thrower is a 12v coil and the ignitor has to have 12v to work properly so you'll want to run a new wire 12v ignition wire to the positive side of the coil.

Here's what I did but my situation May be different. My bulk head connector was completely destroyed so I had removed that connector and installed spade terminals in it place. On the inside of the firewall, the ignition wire is a green standard wire 20 gauge circuit 16 should be labeled. The engine side is the resistance wire. I just spliced a new wire in with those and ran it to my coil for a full 12 volts. I kept the other in because my point set is my back up so if the ignitor fails (like mine did just last week) you'll have something to go with.

Make sense or did I ramble too much? Btw: I contacted pertronix before my installation. This is exactly how they said to do it.
 
the original ignition wire from the fire wall connected to the positive side of the coil is a resistance wire.

Interesting, I left the original module in place because im very electrically challenged:nonod: and it seemed the eaiest way to go. I disconnected the yellow and brown wires that went to the distributor and removed them entirely. I tied the iginitor iii red wire into the red 12v wire from the original module and it ran fine, should I remove the red wire from the module and run the ignitor iii red wire to a seperate 12v ignition wire
 
Ben, the resistance wire I explained is for points....apparently I got carried away (a.d.d) and completely forgot we were talking about a gold box here. I apologize. The black and red wire are still the same from the ignitor

I would give pertronix a call tomorrow to verify your install just to be on the safe side.

These new modules have a protection feature in them so you can't fry them like you could on the first ones but past modules for your application have been a replacement for the gold box. It eliminates the box all together.
 
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Here's something that might help. It's instruction for the past models.

As you can see...red wire to postive coil, black wire to negative coil and 12v ignition keyed wire to positive side of coil.

Gb is eliminated.

As I said this is for a past model so you probably still want to call pertronix to verify the install is the same but this should do it.
 

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