Ignition not killing power to Scout II

J

Jersey101

New member
I have a 79 Scout II, and when I turn off the ignition, it kills the engine as it should, but does not kill power to the vehicles electronic systems.

It's a 79 Scout with a 345 v8 and a 4spd manual transmission. Everything is pretty much stock with the exception of dual battery set up with winch, bright lights kit, an additional painless 7 circuit fuseblock added to the factory electrical system that has fog lights and an extra outlet run off it.

As it is right now, I have to disconnect the battery so the battery doesn't drain as power is being fed to all the electrical systems in the vehicle even when the ignition switch is off. The locking cylinder seems to be activating the ignition switch as it should. I verified this by removing the ignition switch from the lower steering column and manually adjusting the switch through the acc, on, and start positions. I initially thought it was a faulty ignition switch and replaced it. However this did not correct the problem. Everything on the vehicle works fine except for the power not being turned off when the ignition switch is off.

This problem started occurring a couple days after I replaced the dash and the stock gauges. I've gone through the service manual to verify everything is wired as it should be. One more thing when I reconnect the battery while the ignition switch is in the off position, no power is being fed to the vehicle. It isn't until I turn the ignition switch to the on position and then back to the off position that problem persists. I'm at my wits end and figured it's about time I ask the experts. It's probably something dumb that I'm missing, but I'd appreciate any input that you guys can give.
Chris
 
Hi chris. The ignition switch in off position is not intended to cut power to every circuit in the vehicle. It is only a control for switched power circuits. There are several always hot circuits on the factory fuse panel regardless of whether the key switch is on or off. The main power feed from the battery enters the cabin via a bulkhead connector where it connects to one side of the amp gauge. A wire connected to the other terminal of the gauge exits the cabin and runs out to the alternator. So both terminals of the gauge are always hot provided the battery cables are connected. I don't know how much help this knowledge is to you, but my guess is you have a short to ground or parasitic drain occurring. I would try to isolate the circuit it is on by removing one fuse at a time until you get a yahtzee. Good luck.
 
Your the man! Found where the short was. Finally going to be able to drive this thing around in the little bit of nice weather we have up in buffalo. Thanks again.
 
Sooooo what was it?

Another tool that can be used is a multi meter. Most have a current setting that can measure up to 10 amps. You turn everything off and connect the meter is series with the positive lead and check to see if you have a leak. Then you can start pulling fuses to find the circuit, then check each device.

I kid you knot, on my 76 it took 2 sizes of fuses, some were a tad bit shorter in length then the rest. But you could still push the longer ones in place. The issue was the fuse holder ears would bend out and touch the fuse next to it. This created as issue where switched powered items were on when they should have been off.
 
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