Holley 1510, push button start, previous experience?

bendavnw

New member
I love this forum as a source of info, and am hoping some of the experts could offer advice.

Recently picked up:

1976 Scout II
345
2bbl Holley 2300
Holley 1510 dizzz (push-button start)

question 1: one wire going to coil + terminal, coming from start/run circuit on ignition. Meaning, when I turn key on, circuit tester lights up, but no other wire from starter or anything. Pulled my dash, and whats underneath is a mess of green and po wiring (all done in red. Thanks.).

Points in dizz are burnt. What do I do to check and correct the push button start installed by the dbpo?
 
Hey bud, I'm gonna continue this talk over here. I got her running after adjusting the points further. I think it was just a case of operator error, or I had a super thick cover on my matchbook. Either way, problem kinda solved.

So here's my status now. I run ok, but not what I would call good. What is the proper diagnosis procedure for tuning my girl up? Dizzy cap doesnt look great, but not awful. Same with the rotor. Timing is at about 2*btdc (gotta pass deq).

If you remember, I rebuilt that Holley 2300 carb. This is my first carburated vehicle, so I am not versed in their nuances. Adjusting the idle mixture screws has not been enlightening. For one, is that carb even big enough? My cousin swears by his upgrade from 2bbl to 4bbl and since the rebuild was just a bandaid anyways I'm open to any suggestions.

Just to calrify, I'm really just looking for a checklist procedure for a rough running Scout 345...

Thanks!
 
Starting with the points, a matchbook or feeler gauge set to .017 thousands is only good enough to get you in the ballpark. To really dial things in, you need to hook up a dwell meter. The spec dwell angle for an IH v8 is between 28 and 32 degrees with 30 being optimum. If the dizz cap and rotor look sketchy, that's going to effect performance. Same with spark plugs and plug wires. Those are basic tune up items.

A Holley 2300 in proper state of tune is tough to beat when it comes to two barrel carbs for these engines. The older style like you have is roughly 300 cfm, but don't get caught up in that number too much. Its certainly big enough for your 345. Going to a 4bbl isn't going to give you all that much more performance-wise than what you can get out of your current carb. The best way to set your idle mixture screws is to turn them all the way in until lightly seated, then back them out an equal 2 turns. This is your starting point. Bring the engine up to operating temp. With a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum, slowly turn one screw in until the needle peaks. Do the same for the other screw. At a curb idle of @ 750 rpms you want to see a steady reading on the vacuum gauge between 18 and 22 hg.

These engines were never intended to be jaw-dropping performers. They were over-engineered from a durability and longevity standpoint, but they don't breathe worth crap. The valves start floating at around 4 grand, so they're not high-winding mouse motors. These are truck engines meant to move heavy payloads slow and steady, while running at their maximum recommended rpm rating all day long, day after day.

In a light line vehicle such as a Scout, one should expect a level of performance comparable to a stock Bronco/blazer/ramcharger/wagoneer of the same era. None of those rigs set any land speed records. Don't expect your Scout to either.

I don't know how stringent the deq inspection is in portland, but before I lost too much sleep about where the timing was set, I might be more worried about the fact that my carb isn't oe. That's going to be easier for an inspector to notice than where your ignition timing is set. I doubt the dolts even know to time an IH v8 off the #8 cylinder!
 
A little backtracking: I read all the threads about power timing and had a hunch that the po had done the same. After running through deq on the way to my fiance's, they confirmed I had an extremely high level of hc's (unburnt fuel).

Used my ffil's timing light and was set at 20*btdc. Turned dizzy to current timing, but I still don't sound or feel ba. I know this isn't a drag-racer, but I know it should have more than it does.

Mahybe I should I should have clarified this earlier, but I am 25 and cut my teeth on an '86 volvo 240, so I am way green. Where do I test the manifold vacuum? Most of the old v-ports are discoed and im not sure where to start...
 
Well 20 degrees of initial advance is too much. That ain't power timing. That's spit-balling. Backing it off to 2 degrees is a bit extreme in the other direction. A few more degrees of base advance will help wake up that engine. Through power timing you May find that it is happiest at around 10 or 12 degrees btdc. Just to confirm, you did connect the inductive timing pickup to the spark plug wire coming off cylinder 8 which is the rear most on the passenger side bank, right?

Also, do you have any idea what kind of revs the engine is turning at hot idle in park? This makes a difference when setting timing. Shouldn't be idling at much higher than @ 750 rpms.
 
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Hmmmm, well let's catch up. This is my "just for fun" rig, so since we last talked...

---pulled the distributor. Took it apart and and cleaned everything with quickdry electronic cleaner. Missing one of the thrust washers on an advance weight.

--reassembled. Notable points were the looseness of the mech. Advance system (same as before dissambly, just doesn't seem right. Doesn't return to position if rotor is fiddled with.)

--restabbed. 3 tries, I have to confess. And that's after reading all the stuff on here. Just so you know I'm honest.

I bought a set of feeler guages and set the points exactly while the dizzy was out, and it started up fine after the install. I do not have a dwell meter. Is this a crucial tool I must buy? Since my coil is oe (supposedly) I figured it must be right.

Ya know the difference, between crucial and tool snob important? I'll get it if I should, just clarifying...
 
I'll leave the distributor discussion to mayben and/or rob kenney, other than to say multiple dizzy stabs are nothing to be ashamed of.

As for the dwell meter, can you get by without one? Hell yes! You've already done it. With very careful feeler gauging you can get the thing close enough for gummint werk. Horse shoes and hand grenades, yawl! If having it dialed to the knats ass matters, then you need the meter. I don't know how much a new hand-held dwell-tach-volts meter is, but they're a handy deevice to have arount for preesijun tooning and die-agnostik werk. Kinda nice to have an rpm readout right there under the hood when you're fiddle-f'ing with the carb idle speed adjustment. Often times you can find 'em dirt cheap used at a yard sale or pawn shop.
 
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