Ground clearance

J

jmalloy

Member
Hey all!

I know this information is already out here somewhere, but I can't find the right keywords to locate it. I will eventually get around to replacing springs, shocks, bushings, etc. In the mean time I suspect my springs are shot.

How much clearance should I have between the top of the axles and the frame in an unlifted Scout?

As mentioned, I'm pretty sure there's already a thread out here with a nice table of clearances for various configurations. A pointer to the existing information would be much appreciated.
 
lift comparisons

Here's a link to an old chart that Tom mandera put together (with my help) back when we both had time to do things like this.

Its solely based on information for actual measurements and info gathered form other owners, but a trend did seem to appear.

This is for comparing spring lifts only, not body lift and/or sag.


I had to search bp for this, but then I knew it was there and what I was looking for. The more impressive thing is the the link still works and Tom still has the chart buried in his website somewhere lost :d
 
Probably should keep in mind that since the vehicles were 20 - 30 years old (in the chart), the stock distances are "against" springs that are already sagging...
 
This is true.

What we really needed was someone to post up that just put factory "new" springs on a nicely restored Scout. Something as close to fresh off the showroom floor as we could get. But that never happend before the whole list/data base thing just kind of died off.


Would be nice to resurect it. Expecialy since some ultra low-mile originals and some nicely restored-to-new trucks have surfaced since that list was started.


Hmmmmmmm
 
So, with clearance to the bump-stop bracket of 3" in front and 2.75" in back, I'd say my traveler qualifies as a "low rider":)

I'll add springs and shocks to my "soon" list...
 
1980 turbo diesel traveler.

As noted several months ago, my Scout sags a little. I've been researching springs and shocks and have many questions. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I'm building this as a daily driver, not an extreme off-road vehicle.

1. To lift, or not to lift? I don't need a lot of ground clearance, and I'm not planning on putting monster tires on this thing. The storefront here doesn't seem to offer "stock" springs. Is this because there's a reason no one wants them? If they are available, does anyone have an opinion as to how they would compare to a small lift spring in terms of ride and handling?(yes, I know - everyone has an opinion. I also recognize that this question has more than one "right" answer :)

2. Assuming stock springs, which shocks? No one seems to object to bilsteins. Would 4 of the 5100s listed on the storefront + the adapter kit for the front be what I need? If so, what travel length do I need? Are there other shocks I should be considering?

3. Bushings - poly or not poly? I keep reading that poly will be stiff for a street ride, but I don't see non-poly on this storefront. (please note that the fact that I don't see them doesn't mean they aren't there! Some days, I'm quite blind. )

4. That anti-sway bar thingy between the front shackles - there seem to be two separate camps out there, one stating that it's absolutely necessary, and the other stating that it should definitely be removed. Which is it? (I have one now...)

5. Reverse shackle - setting up a reverse shackle is outside of my comfort zone - I'd have to find someone to do that for me (recommendations in northern va?). If I'm going to go with an rs, now is the time. Any opinions on the benefits of an rs for a street vehicle?

6. What did I miss? What should I be asking about that I didn't? (ignorance May be bliss, but knowledge is power)

thanks in advance for any help.

--jim
 
Many of the items available from ihon are not yet displayed in the webstore. Items are being added regularly, but it's best to call Jeff if you don't see something you're interested in. Stock springs can be re-arched by a qualified shop. For the stated use, I think that might be your best option. Lift springs will give a stiffer ride than your stockers in almost every circumstance. The front sway bar is helpful for street handling. Many remove them for off-roading and than re-install for the highway. If you're not lifting and your not doing extreme off-roading, I don't see much benefit in going to the expense an effort of an rs conversion.
 
From your perspective, a lift is only necessary depending on the diameter of the tires you want to run -- look at the chart in the second post in this thread.

About stock springs, call Jeff -- new stock spec springs (as wells as the lift springs) can be made. Personally, I would not re-arch old springs, but, as stated above, a spring shop can do it.

Ground clearance is generally the distance bertween the ground and your axles -- the differential in particular. Larger diameter tires increase ground clearance (and could require a lift to clear the body sheet metal).

Lifts (and larger diameter tires) increase the approach / departure angle allowing you to climb a steeper obstacles without hitting / dragging the bumper / frame. For some people, a lift is just a means to get a particular "look" on a vehicle -- same as lowering ("slamming"?) a vehicle gets another "look"...

Bilstein shocks are good -- if your stock shock mounts are good, call Jeff to see if he has / can get some that match the stock mounts. You need to know what suspension (lift, if any) you are doing, so that the shock (extended length / compressed length) can be "matched" to your new suspension.

Anti-sway bar -- as stated, it improves street handling... Serious off-roaders remove it because it limits "flex" / articulation of the front suspension (axle). With a anti-sway bar installed, if you "climb" a large rock, the other side (tire) May be in the air -- not providing any real traction.
 
Yeah, I did say "ground clearance"... That's not what I meant.

Provided that the body of the truck is higher than the axle then, as you pointed out, clearance is simply a function of tire size. Bigger tires put the axle farther off of the ground. I'm not looking for monster tires, the ability to Ford small creeks, or the ability to ride in places better suited for billy goats.

Visually, my Scout sits "low". The ride is not as smooth as I think it should be (I know I'm dealing with a 30 year old truck, not a sedan). Based on the chart in the second post I'd expect my rear springs to provide an inch plus more height than they do. The po seems to have had some interesting ideas about maintenance. Given the above mentioned factors, I'm assuming that I'm running on 30 year old springs that are "tired" and shocks of unknown (but no reason to assume "good" ) condition.

I'll keep the sway bar. I don't see the need for a lift for "looks". In northern virginia, a Scout is sufficiently odd to qualify as having a "look" all by itself... In the last 10 years I've only seen one other on the roads, and that only once. (I'm sure there are a few more around, but I haven't seen them.)

concensus seems to be "call Jeff", which I will try to do sometime later this week.

Thanks for the input!
 
Thanks for the related thought! I'm always interested in the things I don't know enough to ask about.

All 8 body mounts are in good shape - no rust, no sag. The bushings do look worn and squashed. They too are on my list of things to (eventually) replace.

The measurements we discussed earlier were from the top of the axle to the frame - like tire size, body mounts won't impact that number. What kind of impact should I expect fresh body mounts to have on ride or handling? Again, I'm not terribly interested in lifting anything. The storefront here shows a poly replacement set for $75. Is that what you'd recommend, or are their materialchoices I should consider?

(I know... Ask Jeff when I call him:)
 
Yeah, your last statement still applies...

Just mentioned the body bushings because if you select the "maximum" tire diameter versus whatever springs you choose, the tire(s) May still rub / hit the fender under "extreme" deflection.

As far as type (rubber vs poly), I have no experience (I have a t/a). I prefer rubber, but it is based on "personal choice"; not product comparisons.

I do not know if body bushings are available in rubber... And I do not think they would make any difference as you state -- just keep the body better aligned...

Again, ask Jeff...:rolleyes5: I am sure he can discuss the pros / cons.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top