Mochamike
Member
Thought I'd post this up here....
fordyce Scout run in June 08? - pirate4x4.com bulletin board
Tell a friend!
fordyce Scout run in June 08? - pirate4x4.com bulletin board
Tell a friend!
Fordyce In June...
- Thread starter Mochamike
- Start date
Craig
Active member
Anybody want to go!!! So far looks like it's just me
Friday June 27th: run from beginning of trail to around the committee crossing.
Saturday June 28th: committee crossing up to meadow lake (camp at meadow).
(this way if folks can't get there until Saturday 8am they can enter trail via the committee crossing.
Sunday June 29th: people can take the main road out to truckee/reno or go back along the trail to committee crossing.
Friday June 27th: run from beginning of trail to around the committee crossing.
Saturday June 28th: committee crossing up to meadow lake (camp at meadow).
(this way if folks can't get there until Saturday 8am they can enter trail via the committee crossing.
Sunday June 29th: people can take the main road out to truckee/reno or go back along the trail to committee crossing.
Scouty
Member
Craig, I tried to respond to your pm, but you are over your storage limit 
.
I have a couple things I still have to do on my rig before I want to take it out on the trail.
1) put an extra leaf in my rear spring packs. I'm sagging pretty good in the rear. Jeff suggested putting a stock main leaf in and cutting off the eyes. I have 4" skyjackers, but the added weight of the cage is too much for them. Do you have a set of stock main leaves in your pile?
2) put the mini starter I bought from Jeff in, and do the Ford solenoid conversion.
3) put in a second battery and wire up a marine battery select switch that I just got from Jeff.
Today I put a fan shroud on and a set of hood louvers. When I swapped from the headers to the stock manifolds the temp went up. Not a lot, but more then I would like to see it. I also plan to hole saw a couple holes in the inner fenders (like Jeff's Scout) just to move more heat out of the engine compartment.
If I can get most of this crap done before the fordyce trip I would like to go.
.I have a couple things I still have to do on my rig before I want to take it out on the trail.
1) put an extra leaf in my rear spring packs. I'm sagging pretty good in the rear. Jeff suggested putting a stock main leaf in and cutting off the eyes. I have 4" skyjackers, but the added weight of the cage is too much for them. Do you have a set of stock main leaves in your pile?
2) put the mini starter I bought from Jeff in, and do the Ford solenoid conversion.
3) put in a second battery and wire up a marine battery select switch that I just got from Jeff.
Today I put a fan shroud on and a set of hood louvers. When I swapped from the headers to the stock manifolds the temp went up. Not a lot, but more then I would like to see it. I also plan to hole saw a couple holes in the inner fenders (like Jeff's Scout) just to move more heat out of the engine compartment.
If I can get most of this crap done before the fordyce trip I would like to go.
Craig
Active member
I have your Scout main leaf springs.
I'm pretty sure I have a spare Ford solenoid, you can use. Or just go to pnp and grab one. Just tell them its a large relay, then it's like $7. If you say solenoid, then is like $18-20 new there like $30. Takes about 35 seconds to pull one. I'm going out there today for a hub if you want me to grab one?
A second battery is a nice option, I've been thinking about putting one in too. We need to do the fully monty and get you a real alternator
I would go with a caddy cs144. That's what elrod runs. If you look in every caddy at pnp you can find a rebuilt looking one 
as for the fan, heat, inner fender cutting. The fan pushes the most air out the bottom on the passenger side and the top on the drivers side. I'm out of town this coming weekend, but you can stop by and get the springs.
Measure how long you want them and I can chop the ends off before you get there. not sure if you have a chop saw or not. I would look at adding one leaf for sure, and maybe two, so look where you could add a second. I added a leaf to mine, but when fully load with trail spares mine is even starting to sag more than I like. I have some bling bump stops from Jeff, I need to add.
I'm pretty sure I have a spare Ford solenoid, you can use. Or just go to pnp and grab one. Just tell them its a large relay, then it's like $7. If you say solenoid, then is like $18-20 new there like $30. Takes about 35 seconds to pull one. I'm going out there today for a hub if you want me to grab one?
A second battery is a nice option, I've been thinking about putting one in too. We need to do the fully monty and get you a real alternator
I would go with a caddy cs144. That's what elrod runs. If you look in every caddy at pnp you can find a rebuilt looking one as for the fan, heat, inner fender cutting. The fan pushes the most air out the bottom on the passenger side and the top on the drivers side. I'm out of town this coming weekend, but you can stop by and get the springs.
Measure how long you want them and I can chop the ends off before you get there. not sure if you have a chop saw or not. I would look at adding one leaf for sure, and maybe two, so look where you could add a second. I added a leaf to mine, but when fully load with trail spares mine is even starting to sag more than I like. I have some bling bump stops from Jeff, I need to add.
ihpartschad
IHPA General Manager
Ummm, you could also swing by and couple springs from me since you left the front hood support sitting there that you wanted. I have a mini leaf spring pile going myself. I can cut them for you also. Get new center pins, you May want to grab 2 sets. One to use one to have as spares. Further more that thing is mostly a trail Scout, just sawsall the hell out of the inner fenders.
Scouty
Member
Craig, I think I'm going to get a new solenoid since I need to get new cables and a battery. I'm still trying to decide where I want to mount the batteries. I know I want them next to each other, so I think I'm going to relocate the overflow tank and put the batteries on the driver's side. I measured the springs, and I need them to be around 52 inches. That would be sweet if you could cut them for me. Chad where did you get that overflow tank you are running? Damn I can't believe I forgot that hood mount. I will try to get up there sometime soon to pick it up.
ihpartschad
IHPA General Manager
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Here's a link to Matt g.'s fairly recent dual battery setup we did for his sii (basically a stocker):
project: fireball - binder bulletin forums
Scroll through the posts until ya get to the portions that deal with sparky stuff.
He's since corrected all the charging circuit issues regarding the bulkhead connector, etc. Part of the problem was also a "low output" alternator (common 10si issue) which has been swapped for a fresh quality rebuilt unit. In fact...I verified that all is functioning normally now just this past weekend when we built a fresh carb for the ride and had dave the gear man install a fresh rear axle setup.
project: fireball - binder bulletin forums
Scroll through the posts until ya get to the portions that deal with sparky stuff.
He's since corrected all the charging circuit issues regarding the bulkhead connector, etc. Part of the problem was also a "low output" alternator (common 10si issue) which has been swapped for a fresh quality rebuilt unit. In fact...I verified that all is functioning normally now just this past weekend when we built a fresh carb for the ride and had dave the gear man install a fresh rear axle setup.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Here's a couplea shots of my dual battery setup which I've now duplicated for others several times. Putting the batteries side by side is major weight concentrated at a single point.
This is a fullsize rig, the oem dual battery setup had battery mounted on either side of the front clip.
These were early shots of the "prototype", a optima red top and a yeller top now reside permanent with the yeller top feeding only the winch and a separate fused distribution panel for the sound system, cb, trailer brake, and charging circuit for trailer batteries.
This allows ya to "jump start" yoreself by simply flipping the battery selector switch if need be. I can dry camp in the trailer for days running off the three batteries, and never run down the crank battery (the whole point of "isolation").
This is a fullsize rig, the oem dual battery setup had battery mounted on either side of the front clip.
These were early shots of the "prototype", a optima red top and a yeller top now reside permanent with the yeller top feeding only the winch and a separate fused distribution panel for the sound system, cb, trailer brake, and charging circuit for trailer batteries.
This allows ya to "jump start" yoreself by simply flipping the battery selector switch if need be. I can dry camp in the trailer for days running off the three batteries, and never run down the crank battery (the whole point of "isolation").
Attachments
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
I run everything in 2 gauge, either buy "roll ends" bulk cable or extra long pre-made battery cables from a local jobber, then crimp up my own terminations using texas aggie toenail clippers. Anything greater in ampacity than 2 gauge is a waste of copper resources.
A bonded "ground system is imperative, far superior to anything that was ever oem.
That means all cabling is same gauge. Run the battery ground to the engine, engine ground to the frame, frame ground to the body, front clip to body, pickup bed (if equipped) to body. I'm not talkin' them wimpeeazz "braided" ground "straps" that are equal to about 6>8 gauge. I'm talkin' cable with proper termination, bolted to cleanly abraded metal, then covered with liquid electrical tape.
A bonded "ground system is imperative, far superior to anything that was ever oem.
That means all cabling is same gauge. Run the battery ground to the engine, engine ground to the frame, frame ground to the body, front clip to body, pickup bed (if equipped) to body. I'm not talkin' them wimpeeazz "braided" ground "straps" that are equal to about 6>8 gauge. I'm talkin' cable with proper termination, bolted to cleanly abraded metal, then covered with liquid electrical tape.
Craig
Active member
I pulled a brand new solenoid from pnp. I can set on my seat in the Scout if you want it. I pulled the wiring off Ford trucks, s10, and mini vans at pnp. 4ga stuff for routing alternator and starter stuff. I was out there and grab the easy to get stuff when getting other parts. I will cut the leaf's at 52" you just need to stop by and grab em, they will be on the rear tire of the Scout, as I will be at a boy's camp this weekend
I running a mm special for a radiator over flow. Autozone $8 bucks
here a some stuff here too
http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...Ford-large-case-g3-alternator-setup-fans.html
Last edited:
Scouty
Member
Got the leaf added to the rear springs. Stock clamps aren't long enough, need to figure out a way to clamp them
. Haven't started on the second battery or starter since I'm a little confused on how to wire up the solenoid.
Craig
Active member
We can make some new clamps for the springs. I would look for some 1x1/4 flat iron we can bend in a vise. I can post up a pic of start'em up kit. Instead of the ignition activating the starter solenoid, it operates the Ford solenoid, which applys the 12 volts to both the solenoid and starter. It's just easier for the Scout wiring to activate the Ford solenoid, as the wiring is to small.
Read here catalog
Here is the original mad drawing.
Attached is a write up from the bb.
Read here catalog
Here is the original mad drawing.
Attached is a write up from the bb.
Last edited: