engine kickdown

[1hc72]

I looked but didnt find the thread on adjusting the kickdown cable, if someone could show me where my cable is and how to adjust it that would be great, I will upload pics of my carb setup in a few minutes if I need a more detailed pic let me know

 

[Michael Mayben]

I looked but didnt find the thread on adjusting the kickdown cable, if someone could show me where my cable is and how to adjust it that would be great, I will upload pics of my carb setup in a few minutes if I need a more detailed pic let me know

I moved your thread to the correct sub-forum.

Unless some one has modified your throttle pressure control system and installed a cable, you don't have one. Oem design throttle pressure is controlled with a mechanical linkage/bellcrank mounted on the top/rear driver side intake manifold and connects to the throttle pressure lever with a rod.

Read through the entire thread in this link, then you will find the adjustment procedure for the throttle pressure control in post #23:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/transmission-tech/588-torqueflite-727-guapo.html

Pic attached is my personal ride, the throttle pressure control is totally original but cleaned and detailed.

 

[1hc72]

Mm you are the man!!!!! Adjusted it and man that truk moves!

 

[Craig]

I read through the other thread, but had a question on the kick down adjustment procedure.

some pic's or a description of your set up would help.

The generic method for adjusting any 727 throttle valve linkage is as follows.

#1 make sure the engine is up to temp and the idle speed is where you want it (your supposed to re-adjust any time you change the idle speed screw for more than 25rpm change)

#2 remove the "e" clip that holds the rod to the pivot and disconnect the linkage.

#3 adjust as necessary so that it will slide back on with the rod held against the up/forward stop and the carb linkage held forward against it's stop.

Road test, if you want later shifts make the rod longer, if you want sooner shifts make the rod shorter

This is what the manual says, but without the tip what the rod length does.

simple throttle pressure/kickdown adjustment for any non-electronic version off a torqueflite:

1) adjust throttle cable (or rod on some rigs) so that the throttle goes wot completely!! Very important to do that first!

2) adjust the clevis (or cable if the throttle pressure control has been converted to a lokar-type kickdown control) so that at wot (pedal held firmly to the floor), the throttle pressure rod has some slight additional travel down at the tranny lever before going hard against it's internal stop. Ya do not want the throttle pressure lever to ever be held hard against the stop inside, that leads to much wear in the "bushing" area the shaft runs in (part of the valve body), and creates a leak at the "small" seal interface. Give it about 1/16 of an inch of slack/additional travel.

3) if ya do step 2, you should see, when the throttle is closed, a "gap" in the slotted link of maybe 1/4" as the throttle is slowly opened before it picks up the throttle pressure control as the throttle is opened. Then the throttle "butterfly" position is in correct "synch" with the throttle pressure control on the tranny.

All this is predicated on the throttle linkage being in decent shape, the tranny in decent shape, and fairly "stock" size meats. The actual shift points will very somewhat depending upon throttle position vs. Ground speed and engine "load" (based upon the mechanical throttle linkage). Torqueflites never used any form of modulator, vacuum cannister, electric solenoid, etc. As part of the upshift/downshift scenario as did borg warner, hydramatic division, etc. They are very simple slushboxes in actual operation.

The actual shift points are "controlled" by throttle pressure (thus correct adjustment is imperative!) and the action of the governor mounted on the output shaft inside the tailhousing. That is with the tranny in "drive" and not being manually shifted, the so-called "automatic function.

Larger meats than oem will really change shift points, as will axle gear changes, so it's really not possible to use the standard shift "tables" as found in the various service references if yore meats and gears are big!

The "kickdown" linkage onna fullsize witha tf 727 is somewhat different than the same item onna Scout II with 727. But the adjustment procedure is exactly the same. When production of the "set back" motor versions of pickup and t'all phased in in mid-1973, the entire "kickdown" linkage was changed up to accommodate the amc 401/tf727 setup found in some '73, '74, and '75 models. That kickdown linkage is total shit in design and operation!!! The only cure for that...shitcan all of it and use the lokar cable kickdown setup...it's outstanding in design and execution!

You think IH stuff is crapball engineered...try mixin' in rambler crap with their own version offa tf 727!

This is different than the manual, as this method adjusts the rod in the wot position vs the closed position giving us even more incite on just what is going on between the carb and the tranny when it comes to the throttle pressure and the kick down adjustment. I can't see the 1/4" gap in picture, but I'm sure it's there.

Now to go home and see if I can get mine adjusted right.
I do have big meats and low gears

 

[Michael Mayben]

Go here to post # 34 for a bit more technical explanation of what is going on regarding throttle pressure control witha 727 slushbox:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/transmission-tech/2246-torqueflight-1-2-2-3-shift-points.html

For any complex mechanical device, there are at least five ways to "adjust" 'em and all can achieve the same end result. Nearly all my advice is based upon performance upgrades with no concern for "specs" unless absolutely necessary and does not include consideration regarding "smog specs" unless I'm attempting to set up a vehicle for adherence to some mandated line in the sand. So let's call most all my comments "for off highway use only"!! I want no hard contact between the throttle pressure lever and the throttle pressure valve inside the valve body at wot. That leads directly to failure of the throttle pressure shaft seal and fluid leakage...and I can gayrondamteeya that IH never thought of that little detail since mopar provided 'em with their "service support" system that was re-popped in the IH service literature. And any slushbox bench man/person can tell ya the same thing. Don't make a shit how it's adjusted "procedure"-wise, as long as the end result is correct!

And transmission operation does impact "smog specs" to a degree depending upon year model or origin and location of oem vehicle delivery back in the day. And of course if the smog check is idle only test or a dynamic battery.

Throttle pressure control/shift point calibrations is not an exact setup, that is why a range of comparative data is provided. And no two transmissions/vehicles will ever be identical in shift point operation, just ain't gonna happen. And who cares as long as it works within a proper range??? The adjustablity of this kickdown system is not provided for some kind of finite fine-tuning aspect, it does cover production line variations and wear of mechanical components over time.

 

[Craig]

Don't make a chit how it's adjusted "procedure"-wise, as long as the end result is correct!

Thanks for the reply. I did added a couple turns to the rod length as it currently shifts into 3rd at like 10 mph. Did not get to test drive it as I had fixed some other stuff.
Jesse tranny shifts great, he took me for a ride the other day. If I can't get it to work like "normal" I will go through Jeff and have you work your magic on my vb too.
Fyi I just installed a new t/c and pauls old 727 tranny and just need to finish up a few more details.
Last night got the tranny tunnel cover installed. (that's some foil faced insulation as the heat was come into the cab.)

 

[Michael Mayben]

So now we got "creative recycling" of ihon pullouts going on...share the wealth!