Edelbrock attn. Mike Mayben

[Monte Lauer]

Mike can you post up details about tuning the edelbrock 600 cfm carb. What idle speed and how many turns typically the mixture screws should be set at? And anything else we should know about tuning that thing.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Shore!

Base (curb) idle speed for any sv motor with an aftermarket/performance carb should be around 600rpm in neutral for a manual tranny app, and 750>800 for a tf 727 autoshifter. When ya drop the 727 into d, then ya should see a nominal 600>625rpm due to "drag" in the torque converter. That provides a clean "launch" from a standstill with an 1800rpm stall torque converter.

The idle mixture screws for a carter afb/edelbrock 1406/1407 I usually set about the same as for any Holley with a "standard" idle system (not the funkee "reverse idle system"). That would be an initial setting of 2 to 2-1/4 turns out from lightly seated. The motor will always start from that setting. Where they end up once the mixtures are dialed in will totally depend upon each engine and it's "effective" cylinder compression, manifold vacuum, type of cam (oem or aftermarket), ignition timing, air cleaner selected, etc.

For some reason...it seems the "average" setting for the edelbrocks end up being about 1-1/4 turns out. That is because these are "universal" carbs by nature and the idle circuits I don't personally feel are as sophisticated as a Holley modular carb...my personal opinion and that is not a slam on the carter/edelbrock! In actuality, it doesn't matter where the screws end up as long as your carb performs well and vacuum is good!

Now...if ya have to nearly shut 'em off...or open 'em up nearly all the way, that indicates a major tuning/drivability issue!

Are you still having problems after we talked last night?

 

[Monte Lauer]

shore!

Base (curb) idle speed for any sv motor with an aftermarket/performance carb should be around 600rpm in neutral for a manual tranny app, and 750>800 for a tf 727 autoshifter. When ya drop the 727 into d, then ya should see a nominal 600>625rpm due to "drag" in the torque converter. That provides a clean "launch" from a standstill with an 1800rpm stall torque converter.

The idle mixture screws for a carter afb/edelbrock 1406/1407 I usually set about the same as for any Holley with a "standard" idle system (not the funkee "reverse idle system"). That would be an initial setting of 2 to 2-1/4 turns out from lightly seated. The motor will always start from that setting. Where they end up once the mixtures are dialed in will totally depend upon each engine and it's "effective" cylinder compression, manifold vacuum, type of cam (oem or aftermarket), ignition timing, air cleaner selected, etc.

For some reason...it seems the "average" setting for the edelbrocks end up being about 1-1/4 turns out. That is because these are "universal" carbs by nature and the idle circuits I don't personally feel are as sophisticated as a Holley modular carb...my personal opinion and that is not a slam on the carter/edelbrock! In actuality, it doesn't matter where the screws end up as long as your carb performs well and vacuum is good!

Now...if ya have to nearly shut 'em off...or open 'em up nearly all the way, that indicates a major tuning/drivability issue!

Are you still having problems after we talked last night?

Thanks Mike. I honestly haven't played with my setup since we talked. Momma and I went to the casino last night to celebrate the anniversery, we played some bingo and slots. I didn't win at bingo but I hit a $50 jackpot on a penny slot machine.

Back to the carb, I just wanted to get something on here to reference the edelbrock/carter setup. Fwiw I am very glad you told me about the internal filter, I had no clue.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Another marelli-weber/carter afb/edelbrock deetale I overlooked regarding the "filter" deal monte (and everyone else)...and this will certainly lead to the "starvation" deal I think ya got going on.

Not only "might" there be a "sintered bronze" fuel filter between the inlet fitting and the cavity in which the inlet fitting mounts...but there is a tiny stainless mesh "sock" attached to each fuel needle seat, kinda just "stuffed" into the hole gently before the inlet needle seat is screwed into place. Each side has one. When ya remove the top from the carb, the float assemblies and the gasket will be dangling. Turn that over on the bench, remove the floats, then gently/carefully remove the seats with the proper screwdriver tip to avoid damage. The little filter socks will be under each seat unless someone in the past did not install those.