Early Scout
Member
So I realize the swap I did here was on a 67 powerwagon, but I think it applies to any closed knuckle set up when one is scratching their head about how to mount the backing plate to mount the caliper, and could be useful info on anything 8 lug closed knuckle with an oddball spindle/hub combo...
My dilemma was that the Chevy suburban backing plates that I fetched for 10 bucks each at kilroy's were a good 9/16" shy of adequate backspacing. In other words my calipers needed to move inboard at least 9/16 in order to be able to mount.
Since I had a few different rear disc backing plates on the shelf, I found the one with the cutouts that looked like it would fit up the best and modified it by means of the sharpie and the band saw till it fit just right, then welded it directly onto the knuckle itself. Since the old pw had left hand threaded wheel studs on the left side there was no way I was putting it back together that way. I went with 9/16 hardware when pressing it all back together, new drop down hoses, bled the system (actually just the front, and took her out for a drive...... Unbelievable difference!!!!! Supple, smooth and powerful!
Stock master, stock proportioning valve, stock plumbing altogether, except for the drop downs and the calipers themselves.
The power wagon is a 5500lb vehicle that is made to haul another 3/4 + ton. It was terrifying when I had a load of wood in the back, or was towing any kind of trailer the way this thing took forever to come to a stop. But now thats all changed. The next $250 I can set aside for the pw im changing out the rear axle to disc.
And the first thing im doing after I fix the windshield in my girlfriends 63 Scout is changing it out to disc all the way around because there is no way one should be without this sort of braking, especially when its so simple and inexpensive to do.
Hope yall find the attached pics useful and explanatory, and I hope this helps get a few of you off the fence.
My dilemma was that the Chevy suburban backing plates that I fetched for 10 bucks each at kilroy's were a good 9/16" shy of adequate backspacing. In other words my calipers needed to move inboard at least 9/16 in order to be able to mount.
Since I had a few different rear disc backing plates on the shelf, I found the one with the cutouts that looked like it would fit up the best and modified it by means of the sharpie and the band saw till it fit just right, then welded it directly onto the knuckle itself. Since the old pw had left hand threaded wheel studs on the left side there was no way I was putting it back together that way. I went with 9/16 hardware when pressing it all back together, new drop down hoses, bled the system (actually just the front, and took her out for a drive...... Unbelievable difference!!!!! Supple, smooth and powerful!
Stock master, stock proportioning valve, stock plumbing altogether, except for the drop downs and the calipers themselves.
The power wagon is a 5500lb vehicle that is made to haul another 3/4 + ton. It was terrifying when I had a load of wood in the back, or was towing any kind of trailer the way this thing took forever to come to a stop. But now thats all changed. The next $250 I can set aside for the pw im changing out the rear axle to disc.
And the first thing im doing after I fix the windshield in my girlfriends 63 Scout is changing it out to disc all the way around because there is no way one should be without this sort of braking, especially when its so simple and inexpensive to do.
Hope yall find the attached pics useful and explanatory, and I hope this helps get a few of you off the fence.
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