Distributor Q&A's

[Richard]

Hey folks, I have a question.

What is the most common distributor used in Scout's? I have a 1977 SSII that came wiith a Holley and gold box. I switched to a 1979 prestolite and installed a pertronix unit. Runs fine. However, I want to put together a "spare" distributor for off roading. In the event the pertronix goes out, I have the spare. I have heard that some guys use the old "points" distributor because they are a "no-brainer". Another question, what distributor is the most used with a pertronix unit, an original points distributor or an electronic distributor?

Last question, knowing that the pertronix burns out with the key in the "on position" without the engine running, is there another wiring solution that would get around this issue? I heard that if the positive wire of the pertronix is wired into the oil sending unit, it would work.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Michael Mayben]

In my opinion a delco cast iron (very hard to come by nowadays) with a pertronix conversion) is the "best" dd distributor. Next in line would be a reconditioned Holley 1510 (points model) with a pertronix conversion. Third choice would be a Holley gold box distributor converted to a pertronix which eliminates the box, that is the problematic component if allowed to overheat.

But any replacement distributor must be in first class condition mechanically, just like the dd unit! Vacuum advance works, mechanical advance is within spec and lubricated, side play is within spec along with end play.

That "wire the pertronix to an oil pressure sender" deal is total bogus bullshit. I see several issues with that. Why not just not leave the switch on in the first place??


Again...if ya leave the ignition switch on without the engine running with any common ignition system delco, Holley, prestolite, mallory, etc.) you will cook the breaker point if present, will fry the module if an electronic system, and most likely create an "open" primary winding in the ignition coil also due to "burn out".

If one has concern about the "switch on" issue, then the pertronix II module supposedly has a design feature that will "turn off" the module after a period of inactivity. Then a switch cycle must be performed to bring it back to life.

All the above choices involve using the same spec ignition coil. The problem with going "backwards" and swapping in a breaker point distributor of any model is that a "resistive" ignition primary side feed must be provided (either a ballast resistor or a resistor circuit of 1.5>1.8ohms) for the "run" switch position. Otherwise, the breaker points will last a very short time and most likely the coil primary side will be cooked also.

 

[Eric VanBuren]

The prestolite electronic ignition module, at least the oe ones, will not fry just because the ignition is left in the on position w/o the engine running.

 

[Michael Mayben]

the prestolite electronic ignition module, at least the oe ones, will not fry just because the ignition is left in the on position w/o the engine running.

Will you stand behind that statement with a guarantee for replacement eric?

I wonder why I've replaced two of 'em in the last eight years because of the "key on " sitch?

And why even try and find out if that is a true statement??

 

[Eric VanBuren]

will you stand behind that statement with a guarantee for replacement eric?

I wonder why I've replaced two of 'em in the last eight years because of the "key on " sitch?

And why even try and find out if that is a true statement??

No I won't guarantee someone's module, there are just to many variables in play like the presence of an aftermarket module, incorrect coil ect. Will you guarantee that a pertronix will last 30 years?

Probably because they were aftermarket units, would be my guess or there were other issues that caused the problem.

I did switch to the prestolite because many others have reported that they had accidentally left the key on and it didn't fry. Also it has proven to be the longest lasting system out there, that is a drop in for the sv, with many reporting their original module still doing it's job 30 years and 100's of thousands of miles later. I did do a major test myself on accident however.

The wife came home with a car full of groceries and of course I had to help carry them in. I was in the process of making some changes to the msii that powers that rig so the key had to be on to power up the computer. When I was done carrying in the groceries she had other honey do's, and I got sidetracked. Later I did go out and grab the lap top, but since it was dark out then I didn't notice that the keys were still in the ign and the ign was on. 2 days passed and I went to take the t-all and couldn't find my main set of keys for it, after looking everywhere in the house I dug out the spares and went to the truck and found them hanging in the ign, the key on and the battery dead. Hooked up the charger on low, and went to work. While I had left the ign on w/o the engine running dozens of times for up to 4-5 minutes at a time while configuring and tuning the system, I fully expected the module, the coil or both to be dead, leaving it on so long that it drained a good battery completely. I put the charger on low and took another rig, when I got home I figured I'd give it a try and lo and behold it fired right up as usual.

There was a reason that IH switched to the prestolite, because they got tired of paying the warranty claims on the gb, and I'm pretty sure that one of the first questions they asked prestolite is "will it fail if the key is left in the on position w/o the engine running.

 

[RobertC]

I have a real problem with this (ongoing) discussion (many posts / many forums).

If you cannot remember to turn the key to the off postion, it is not the fault of the installed ignition system in the vehicle -- it is your fault.....

 

[Michael Mayben]

I have a real problem with this (ongoing) discussion (many posts / many forums).

If you cannot remember to turn the key to the off postion, it is not the fault of the installed ignition system in the vehicle -- it is your fault.....

Thank you for saying what most all of us around here think Robert.

Keeping any ignition system powered while the engine is not operating is a plain old dumshit stunt for which there are consequences. Looking back...I got no idea how many sets of points and ignition coils I've personally fucked over the years. But no one else did that to my stuff...I did!

Any idea how many of the original kawasaki 500cc three hole 2strokers went up in flames by doing the same when the brain for the cd ignition system got "kinda hot"??

Leave the switch on, pay the piper...bottom line. Some will last longer than others, some won't last a few seconds, some aren't affected at all.

Want a nannystate analogy??? I spent most of last Saturday helping my young neighbor gal with a recently acquired 2003 pontiac aztek throwaway ride.

Her problem? Most of time once the pos was started, it couldn't be shut down! Between the fuckin' brake interlock, the shifter interlock, the steering lock, and who knows what all else that the fookin' gmbastards designed into this stoopid sumbitch, ya could not turn the ignition lock to the off or lock position. I spent an hour figgerin' a workaround that involved turning the key switch to the off position (only could do that of the shift lever was in d or r with the engine running), then slamming the shifter back into 1 and slamming into park while stomping the brake. Then 90% of the time the key switch would "lock" and the key could be removed. 10% of the time this did not work and it had to be repeated over and over until it did work.

My purpose was to try and come up with something so she did not have to leave the rig running when parked and she was in class at oregon state! I trained her on the procedure until she could make it work every time.

I also warned her about a "dealer visit" to correct the issue.

Guess what...the estimate for repair is well over $600! Just to be able to kill the motor and make the nannystate feel good about saving the earth from non-rotation.

She knows I won't touch this throwaway pos...she's finally decided that she wants me to find a Scout to drive , something that she can start and stop when needed.

 

[RobertC]

Re -- nannystate --

yes, that is a problem -- not sure if she will "get away"
with only $600.

I sometimes have the same problem when I get a rental car -- if you do not "do things" in the correct order , you cannot get the key to the off / lock position and get it out of the ignition switch.

I sometimes almost cannot figure how to get them to work anymore.... Lol

and, since you love kalifornia -- I read this a while ago.

Someone got a ticket for no front license plate. The car saturn???) did not have a bracket for a front license plate. The guy went to the dealer and the dealer wanted $150. For the "front license plate kit" and to install it....

 

[Michael Mayben]

I was a field engineer for the hvac system for saturn during vehicle development/prototype in 1989>1992). I had several saturn "test cars" I ran during that period trying to simply rack miles for durability testing and many other areas of concern. All the test cars had manufacturers plates on 'em (yes I was living in long beach and huntington beach at the time!).

Can't tell ya how many times I was stopped for that "no front tag" deal. My out...it was a "test car" with manufacturers tags, but the fookin' chp just had to have a reason to stop me over and over! When they saw the massive amount of test gear duktaped into the rear seat they always thought I was cookin' meth on the go. Dumfucks.

When the production saturns hit the streets, same deal...no front tag holder. At that point I got a saturn sw2 "company car" for making my dealer calls. Same shit, constant harrasment from chp, but they could never actually write a tikee since it had the "special" tags.

Ya wanna know why there was no front tag placement??? That was an "air flow management" deal! Those fuckin' saturns are highly technical in the airflow dept. Since they are bottom breathers!!! And a front tag just really scruus with engine cooling!

In fact, if ya notice all of 'em have a chin spoiler that is spring loaded. Two reasons...,it can fold back with minimal damage when a parking bumper is tapped, and above 40mph, ram air causes it to change it's angle of attack which really helps the hvac system operation! If ya remove it or break it off, the engine will overheat. If ya put a front tag on it (the "dealer" kit), then the hvac don't work worth a shit at low ground speed at high ambients like crawlin' the hellvegas strip at 2pm in early August!!

 

[cbmind]

Can't tell ya how many times I was stopped for that "no front tag" deal. My out...it was a "test car" with manufacturers tags, but the fookin' chp just had to have a reason to stop me over and over! When they saw the massive amount of test gear duktaped into the rear seat they always thought I was cookin' meth on the go. Dumfucks

That's some good s$#% got to love California and the chp. One good thing about it, 12yrs ago I was on spring break form sul ross in alpine, tx, decided to go for a ride. Wound up passing thru los banos, CA on I-5 Saturday before palm Sunday, stop to get gas, station no open, try to get back on the interstate, Scout decides to drive like s%^&. Back to gas station. 4 out of the five wheel studs had sheered off. Incredible. I had one wheel stud holding my wheel on at 80mph. Awesome. Packed it in for the night, erik estrada form chp showed up and asked me "exactly what the f*() I was doing" with a sleeping bag an the back of that truck. I was packing it in for the night. After a long story, a background check, he gave me an 8 mile (would have been a walk otherwise) ride in to town to a hotel, showed me where napa was, and informed me I ought to sell "that piece of s&^% and buy a Jeep, their wheels don't fall off." retard, thanks for the ride. Paunch.