Distributer Cap for Gold Box System

H

howlemup

Member
I'm new to the International scene and I'm no good with this ignition/electrical stuff either. My question is does anybody have a part # for the cap or just tell me what I need? I have a 76 Scout 2 with a 304, it's the gold box ignition. Also could use suggestions with what plug wires to buy. Thanks for your help.
 
Welcome to ihon dude! Thanks for hooking up with us!

The distributor cap for a Holley "gold box" ignition system is exactly the same as the cap used on on the Holley/IH "1510" series distributors we discuss around here quite often. Nothing "special" at all about 'em.

Call ihon for a cap selection, those are not in the online store as there are many variations.

For my personal use, I prefer a wells f934g "gold" cap...it's red in color for bling and has all copper contacts. But any other quality cap will work just fine. Stay away from the caps with the aluminum terminals as those are susceptible to corrosion of the terminations over time.

The proper cap will have "female" terminations, so any replacement pug cables need to be for that type system.

There are many choices for plug cable sets, from "custom" terminated that are pre-cut and terminated in correct lengths, to diy termination kits that you can customize for your own cable routing. Modern cables are gonna all be silicone jacket in either 7mm or 8mm od, nearly everything sold today (even the cheep crap!) is a "spiral wound" conductor system that provides rfi suppression without incorporating high resistance conductors like in earlier times. Msd, accel, taylor, Ford racing, etc. Are all of the same type construction so it comes down to how much do ya wanna spend and color! One is no better than the other!
 
I use napa auto parts.

Rotor #fa85
cap #fa98

wire set #700166 - all wires fit perfectly, run the #7 (longest one) down the passenger side & around the back of the carb then over to the spark plug to keep it away from #5. Wires #1, #3 & #5 have straight terminals at the cap, wires #2, #4, #6, #8 & #7 have 90 degree terminals at the cap.

Gold box #tp85 - comes with a 5 year warranty. (I always carry a spare with me)

brass terminals & high quality parts.
 
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Hey thanks guys for the great info. I was outside messin around with it today after reading the sticky on distributer identification I believe it was and there was a post about someone being able to suck air through the vacume advance? Anyway my vacume hose wasn't even hooked up and I tried sucking air through it and then blowing, long story short I can suck and blow air through it. From what I understand this means it's bad and they dont make these anymore, is that correct? And what are my options ignition wise from here. Thanks
 
The "suk and blow" test sure ain't definitive for a vacuum can!

One of the best tools you can have in your arsenal for working on old iron is a "mityvac" hand held vacuum pump, scroll through this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/tool-talk/1570-mityvac-thread.html

Apply vacuum to the port on the vacuum advance can. It should begin to actuate at approximate 5"hg and be fully retracted at approximate 12"hg and hold vacuum indefinitely. When vacuum is released, the arm should extend immediately...no lag whatsoever such as found on some vacuum choke pulloff cans.

If you are sukkin'/blowin' on the hose when it's connected to the carb fitting, then ya can back and forth that all day long. The carb "port" provides a vacuum signal to the distributor can, not the other way around!

New vacuum cans for these Holley 1510 distributors have not been available for several years, though some parts houses May actually have one on the shelf. There was a point in time when they retailed for around $8, now the going rate for new is $100.

Since you are in gaston, you can have your existing can "rebuilt" by philbin electric in portland (28 n. Russell just off mlk), one of the very few operations in the u.s. That are still doing this. We use 'em fairly often, I have a half dozen or so that need to go to philbin now for service.
 
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1975ih200 said:
I use napa auto parts.

Rotor #fa85
cap #fa98

wire set #700166 - all wires fit perfectly, run the #7 (longest one) down the passenger side & around the back of the carb then over to the spark plug to keep it away from #5. Wires #1, #3 & #5 have straight terminals at the cap, wires #2, #4, #6, #8 & #7 have 90 degree terminals at the cap.

Gold box #tp85 - comes with a 5 year warranty. (I always carry a spare with me)

brass terminals & high quality parts.
Click to expand...

Regarding plug cable runs for #5 and #7 on the IH sv engine apps...that was a valid issue back in the 60's and 70's due to the type secondary cable being used, that "phenomena" is known as "inductive crossfire". Suppression cable at that time used carbon-impregnated synthetic filament conductor material which had a nominal resistance of 1,000 ohms per foot of length. Stuff was fairly fragile and was a "tune-up" item back then with a service life of around 15,000miles.

Modern helical wound (or spiral wound if you prefer) secondary cable negates the need to separate the secondary cables, one of the benefits of that type cable is the "choke effect" it has regarding secondary inductive crossfire and rfi suppression...that's how the stuff works!! While a resistive material is still used in modern helical-wound cable conductors, it's fairly low in resistance value per foot and very durable!!

Some racing ignition systems still use an actual metallic core cable for secondary connections but not only does it need to be shielded in order to suppress emi/rfi which can raise hell with computer-based race ignition systems, it should never be used with any ignition system used on street-driven rigs that use common aftermarket capacitive discharge ignition boxes.

Modern secondary cable materials are vastly superior to what we used 15 years ago, no comparison.
 
Maybe I don't know what the vacume advance is, is it the can on the carb or the can on the distributer? I was blowing to the can on the distributer. Maybe you could post a pic for me. Like I said im new at this. Thanks again.
 
The vacuum advance can is attached to the distributor...go to that link in the last post I made and you will see one (actually three) being tested. The cans in that pic are all for Holley 1510 distributors like yours.

And..to begin your education in the ignition system arena, study this thread which is a sticky at the top of this sub-forum:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ignition-tech/642-ihc-vehicle-distributor-identification.html

That thread describes nearly all distributor variations that were used in the sv engine. The only ones I haven't described yet are a prestolite electronic trigger unit which was also used in many Scout II apps along with the gold box system in later years. Also missing is the earlier version of the Holley 1510, the one we refer to as the "straight point" version which uses it's own dedicated vacuum can also.

The vacuum cans for all these distributor variations do not interchange.
 
Just heard through the jungle telegraph that howlemup "might" make an appearance at the IHSTO meeting this coming Thursday. Sumthin' to do witha potluck "free food and beer"?????

If so...howl needs to git aholt of me in advance...I might be able to fix him up with "stuff" inna swap-out mode or "loaner" mode. But if so, I need to make sure I bring the right stuff with me...I don't normally carry my whole shop and the ihon inventory to club meetings!
 
Ok, I'm coming to the meeting. Monte talked me into it. Even better than that though, after three weeks of scrounging every penny, nickle, dime and the occasional quarter I was able to buy a cap and rotor and new plug wires. It's officially "alive" the old 76 roared to life as the dual exhaust shot two enormous clouds of rust and mouse nests into my garage. Oh it was a beautiful site, I wish you could all have been there to witness it in all it's glory. It brought tears to my eyes. I am so excited! The only thing that I am in need of right now is a good working carb. It has a Holley 2245 on it and it didn't take long for it to literally fill up and start overflowing out the top. Unfortunately I am at a stand still until I can do something about the carb.:icon_sad:
 
We'll talk over some "options" for a carb for ya at the meeting! Including a rebuild of your existing unit which is perfectly doable.

I'm bringing five carbs to the meeting for delivery to various folks (monte gets two), and have some more to pick up.

Once ya git to know everyone, you will find we all work together to make stuff happen for noobs and folks that wanna help themselves with a little guidance!

Welcome to the krew!
 
Great. Do I need to bring anything to the meeting? Food, beer or parts? Also can somebody pm a address and time for the meeting? Thanks
 
Here's the link to the IHSTO forum...the calendar, and a notice regarding the August meeting can be found there:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/I-h-s-t-o/2464-IHSTO-August-meeting-location.html

I am bringing you a nice vacuum advance can for your gold box distributor to borrow! That way ya can work on makin' the ride a runner. But...it's a loaner, not a gift! Big difference!

We'll discuss your carb options also, I know it's all about the budget, it's the same for all of us!
 
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