Data Logging -BScoutII
- Thread starter BScoutII
- Start date
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
Did you save the blm table.
The only thing I see is that the blm are really Rich in areas.
Have you checked the fuel pressure?
Have you done any work lately. Maybe mounts or gone wheeling and the return line got pinched?
Hows the timing?
The only thing I see is that the blm are really Rich in areas.
Have you checked the fuel pressure?
Have you done any work lately. Maybe mounts or gone wheeling and the return line got pinched?
Hows the timing?
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
You saved the knock tabe but not the blm table.
Just go to the blm tab and at the bottom click save table.
Just go to the blm tab and at the bottom click save table.
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
It's a short run but it looks on the Rich side.
Verify your inlet and your return pressures.
Any pressure on the return will add to the inlet pressure.
Verify your inlet and your return pressures.
Any pressure on the return will add to the inlet pressure.
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
A simple t in the lines right at the throttle body connections.
I used the cheap hf fuel inj pressure tester for a long time. It has a t and the gauge and several fittings.
About $14
even being Rich it seems odd that it would kill the engine.
Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak or exhaust leak on the o2 side.
When it dies, does it restart right away?
If you hold the gas pedal down when cranking does it start faster?
I used the cheap hf fuel inj pressure tester for a long time. It has a t and the gauge and several fittings.
About $14
even being Rich it seems odd that it would kill the engine.
Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak or exhaust leak on the o2 side.
When it dies, does it restart right away?
If you hold the gas pedal down when cranking does it start faster?
BScoutII
Member
It doesn't start without assistance. I hold the throttle at about 1/2 way and crank it till it starts. It won't hold idle but will run.
I haven't checked anything yet so I don't know if I have any leaks. Would I check this the same as a carburated engine? Spray around with wd40 or starter fluid and see if the engine revs?
I'll see if I can round up a fuel injector pressure tester in the next couple of days.
Did you get a chance to check out that second set of files I uploaded? That was about a 20 - 25 minute run.
I haven't checked anything yet so I don't know if I have any leaks. Would I check this the same as a carburated engine? Spray around with wd40 or starter fluid and see if the engine revs?
I'll see if I can round up a fuel injector pressure tester in the next couple of days.
Did you get a chance to check out that second set of files I uploaded? That was about a 20 - 25 minute run.
BScoutII
Member
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
Works as good as any.
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
As mentioned earlier, I have 2 of those kits.
That's why I suggested it.
There is no where to really install in a factory GM system but since we install these we normally have a rubber fuel line connection to allow the t to be installed. If you used all an fittings then you will have to work out the adapters.
The last run you logged showed a lot of bad data logged. I seriously doubt you run your engine at 6400rpm.
Did you review the data?
Are you maintaining a steady blinking green 20 at the top of winaldl when logging?
Perhaps you still have a wiring/interference issue.
Try twisting the 2 wires from the distr to the ignition module.
Make sure none of the plug/coil wires runs near the ignition module wiring.
That's why I suggested it.
There is no where to really install in a factory GM system but since we install these we normally have a rubber fuel line connection to allow the t to be installed. If you used all an fittings then you will have to work out the adapters.
The last run you logged showed a lot of bad data logged. I seriously doubt you run your engine at 6400rpm.
Did you review the data?
Are you maintaining a steady blinking green 20 at the top of winaldl when logging?
Perhaps you still have a wiring/interference issue.
Try twisting the 2 wires from the distr to the ignition module.
Make sure none of the plug/coil wires runs near the ignition module wiring.
BScoutII
Member
I'll be checking the wiring for sure before I tap into the fuel system. I did review the data briefly, it might as be written in a different language. I don't understand what I'm looking at.
I can watch the tach jumping all over the place as it struggles to run.
I'll do what your last post suggested and report back.
Thanks
ps: I'll review that data closer and see if I can make sense of it.
I can watch the tach jumping all over the place as it struggles to run.
I'll do what your last post suggested and report back.
Thanks
ps: I'll review that data closer and see if I can make sense of it.
BScoutII
Member
Tried moving the wires around and re-routing the coil wire. Didn't seem to make difference.
Does this sound like wiring/interference problem?
When cold, it starts up fine. After running for awhile, warms up, the tach starts to spike but the engine rpm is not jumping around, just the tach. Then it dies.
You stated "it still has a wiring/interference issue". I was unaware it ever had this problem before.
For what it's worth, here's a couple pictures:
Does this sound like wiring/interference problem?
When cold, it starts up fine. After running for awhile, warms up, the tach starts to spike but the engine rpm is not jumping around, just the tach. Then it dies.
You stated "it still has a wiring/interference issue". I was unaware it ever had this problem before.
For what it's worth, here's a couple pictures:
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
Have you had a timing light hooked up and watched the timing as it started to mess up?
The red connector on the ign module goes to the distr. If you pull the loom off the wires should have continueous twist in the wires.
It's possible the ignition module itself could be heating up and failing. That's pretty common with electronics.
The red connector on the ign module goes to the distr. If you pull the loom off the wires should have continueous twist in the wires.
It's possible the ignition module itself could be heating up and failing. That's pretty common with electronics.
Bill USN-1
F.I. Moderator
I normally don't replace a module unless it test bad at the store.
Best to run them several times and if they fail any of the test then they are bad.
But at least now you have a spare.
Did you check the spark/fuel when it died?
Another check is to measure the resistance of the distr pick up after it dies to make sure it's in spec.
You can read it cold and then run till it dies and read it again.
Have you measured the primary and scondary of the coil?
Check it when warm also.
Best to run them several times and if they fail any of the test then they are bad.
But at least now you have a spare.
Did you check the spark/fuel when it died?
Another check is to measure the resistance of the distr pick up after it dies to make sure it's in spec.
You can read it cold and then run till it dies and read it again.
Have you measured the primary and scondary of the coil?
Check it when warm also.
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