Dana 20 Output Housing removal question

NewcScout

Member
What am I missing? I'm trying to get the output housing off and I can't seem to get the shift rod that connects to the shift lever for the front sliding gear to pull through of the housing.

I can't get the shift fork off because the retaining screw is on the under side.

The housing is loose and the other shift rod is sliding through it's fork. The poppet balls are both still in. I would have though I simply need to overcome the poppet ball place, but it seems to be taking an awful lot of force without moving.

Anyone have an idea?

Thanks guys.
 
It's real pain getting the shift rods out of the front retainer, that's for sure.you will need to pull the front bearing retainer and the loose shift bar out together, keeping the attached shift bar in it's place (probably just what you've been trying to do) both shift bars cannot be pulled through the front bearing retainer at once. It's not the denten balls causing all the issues. It's the interlock pill that resides between the two shift bars that's makes it difficult. It's there to keep the tc from being shifted into an unacceptable scenario. You can overcome it but I've never been able to do so without the use of a dead blow hammer.

Jason
 
Thanks jason.

You're correct, I'm try to pull the free shift rod out with the retainer, while keeping the other one in the case still connected to it's shift fork. You can see in the picture that the one on the right is pulled back in the housing and the whole housing is pulled off the case a bit.

Are you suggesting that I can "overcome" it with a dead blow? It seems like you could tweak the slotted section of the rod pretty easy by hammerin' it too hard.

Is there a way other that that to pull this off? Can I get to the pill thing?

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Yep, that's a really good guide to follow. Same one I used. Unfortunately he is very unclear on this step. If I recall correctly he talks about twisting the shaft 1/4 turn and pulling.

*edit* I just found this info that looks like it will help us both in the future. It looks like you can twist but it has to be in a certain scenario for it to happen.


12. Shift both rails into neutral. Use a brass hammer to knock the rails backward or forwards until they are both in the center position.
13. Turn the shaft closes to the middle of the case a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. This prevents the poppets from locking the rail into the case.
14. Knock the shift rail forward with a drift to free the shaft from the case
15. Catch the spring and poppet ball when the shaft comes free.
16. Finish removing the front housing from the second shift rail. May require some force or tapping from a rubber mallet.

Jason
 
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I tore my d20 apart a couple of weeks ago to put new bearings in it. Seems the solution was to drive out the intermediate shaft and gear and get that out of the way (then you get access to that underdrive shift fork set screw), then drive out the front output shaft and bearings and get all that stuff out of the way, then unbolt the front bearing retainer and twist/turn things to where you can access the set screw on the other fork, and remove. Then the trick is moving those shift rods forward/back into whatever combination it is that allows one of them to slide out. But that all came last.
Oh, when you do get to that step, do put a rag over the holes where the poppets are. They do jump out and are easily lost.

Right now I'm returning crappy im shaft spacers I got from xxx 4x4 in florida. Bearings are standard (and cheaper than I've seen on line), and I recommend getting any other needed parts from xxx outside of san diego.

Hey, I see you are in newcastle. I'm up in foresthill.

Ooops. Rereading this Jeff, you're right - my bad. But a little follow up on this. Those washers were pretty crappy and it seems that to go outside our IH vendor system (can I say that much?) is now very risky indeed. Prediction: those with jeeps, well, good luck until they figure out that for interchangeable tranny parts (with scouts), they'll eventually need to come to IH vendors to get quality parts.
 
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Well, it took taking it apart to see how the pills worked. Yes, 1/4" turn of the shaft frees it.

And wow, the bearing removal on the front shaft was a doozy too. I guess it was another great opportunity to make some new tools.

Anyhow, here it is, all twin sticked up and everything. Thanks for all the help.

Cheers,
drew


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