D.U.I Day 5

T

towem

New member
Yeah I'm at the end of day 5 of this. I have gotten some good advice from eric vanburen on the bb.
I have tried every combination I can come up with as far as lining up the reluctor and pick-up and having the room to set base time.
I have moved plug wires around a position either way every attempt.
I do have some po wiring problems (takes about a week to drain the battery) but the truck ran good with the points. I got talked into going back to electronic so studied up on the dui and here I am. It had a pertronix in it when I bought it and didn't run that great. Got talked in to the points.
I have played with moving teeth 1,2,even 4 but always seem to wind up between posts as far as where I wind up setting #8.
I have set it up at 5 btdc to 10 btdc and all point in between.
Hopefully you can see the picks and see where I'm at now.
 
Before going forward with assistance regarding this dui install, I need to know if it was ordered and purchased through ihon. We have a specific setup done on the davis dui when ordered from us that makes a major difference in the ease of installation. This special setup is not performed on the dui product purchased through other sources.

There should never be any reason to have to screw with the indexing of the mag trigger at all, those are set by davis for specific applications and is part of the conversion they perform.

By the way, simply swapping distributors/ignition systems around will do nothing for fixing a broke electrical system! In fact, the dui setup puts more load on the ignition "start/run" circuit due to it's exceptionally high current draw/requirement. And a pertronix conversion is far superior to any breaker point setup in any distributor if it's correctly installed and the system wired appropriately.

The proper way to verify tdc on the compression stroke of the #8 cylinder is to simply remove the valve cover on the passenger bank and look at the position of both rockers arms while aligning the timing Mark on the crank hub. They both should be "loose" when felt with very light pre-load on the pushrods.
 
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No Mike I didn't order it from you guys. At the time I was overseas and didn't much about you guys.
I have an hei wiring kit that I talked with Mark hamilton over at madelectrical about. I had planned to install it when I did the rewire and changed out the alternator.
 
towem said:
no Mike I didn't order it from you guys. At the time I was overseas and didn't much about you guys.
I have an hei wiring kit that I talked with Mark hamilton over at madelectrical about. I had planned to install it when I did the rewire and changed out the alternator.
Click to expand...

Contact the source for that distributor conversion directly and describe exactly the issues you are having. It should also have included the modified water neck if it was part of an ihc sv engine application kit. And...not all water necks are the same, the use of the dui distributor with the water neck they provide as part of the kit is specific for only the Scout II and will also work on fullsize IH vehicles equipped with a crossflow radiator.

The dui distributors built for sale through ihon have a specific clocking of the cap assembly that allows the electrical connector and the vacuum advance to be located in the proper position to allow for just enough rotation to set the base ignition timing and access to the wiring connector. That in turn means the distributor has to be properly assembled by davis with attention paid to the phasing of the mag trigger and rotor components.

I don't understand a need for an "hei wiring kit". All that is required is a single point terminal to connect a suitable ignition-switched b+ feed to the distributor-mounted connector. The replacement hei connectors are readily available as aftermarket repair items in most auto parts outlets. I wire these with 12 gauge, though 14 gauge is more than sufficient for carrying up to 10 amps continuously. One single wire is used from the switch feed.

My suggestion is that at this point, this distributor was not correctly assembled after the modifications to the drive were made to allow it's installation in an IH sv engine app. In fact, I also have one of these units on the shelf here now that is simply impossible to use in the intended sv application because it was not correctly modded. It can be installed if the water neck is eliminated! Not very practical for cooling an engine is it??
 
The modified water neck was included from perf. Dist. And is installed. I'll give them a call they still owe me my livewire's. The "hei kit" was just a universal relay kit with the batt and tach terminals added as well as a fusable link. He said I May or May not need it.
 
A fusible link in distributor wiring? That is total bullshit, what the hell is gonna be "fused" and why??? There is never a reason to "fuse" an ignition system. Aftermarket capacitive discharge boxes utilize internal circuit protection, those are never wired through any fused or protected wire run.

No ignition system is ever fused, just as no headlight system is ever fused (headlight systems always use an auto-reset circuit breaker).
 
I'm sorry. I love reading through all this. Mike you are the man. The apology is for half a$$ hijacking this thread to say this
 
I ran a single 12 gauge wire from ignition switch to batt. Per mm and the guys at performance dist. They were lost when I asked about the "clocking of the cap" and the phasing. They did however assure me that this is the same set-up that is built and sold to ihon and the "boys in Colorado". I now have the Scout running but haven't found the room to set base timing. And it wont shut down with the key.
 
Just talked with the tech. At performance distributor again and he said to try bringing it up on #1 tdc. I reminded him that we time off #8. He said he had heard that but try it anyway. I think I'll hold off on that. He also told me to find a round water neck.
 
Scruu the "tech" at davis with a big forked stick!!!!! He don't know shit from shinola about these motors and what it takes to make 'em go. Typical kid who dines on jegs catalogs. Why would this one engine be that "special" one that stabs off cylinder #1 when the other 1.27 million produced stab off #8 because that is where the timing Mark is!!!!?????

The only way to set tdc on #1 and know where it is means to use a dial indicator on the rockers or piston top as a reference for "tdc". There is no timing Mark on the damper ring or crank hub to indicate tdc on #1 on any IH sv engine!

The dam water neck interference is exactly why these distributors are problematic to install. But again, ihon has sold many of these units over the years with no installation issues other than it's tedious. The early style water neck also involves the use of a particular top radiator hose that can be difficult to obtain. Pic attached.

My opinion, this particular distributor was assembled incorrectly if it was done "just like we do for ihon".
 

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I agree. I talked to Jeff and verified that I have the same set-up that is built and sold by ihon. I'm gonna try a relay type wiring set-up that Jeff suggested (similar to an e-fuel pump set-up) if that doesn't work I have already told p.d. That I"ll be sending their dist. Back.and ordering from you guys. If not for a dui but something thats not a pia to stabb.
 
I am up and running but I have a intermittent starting problem. Can the dui cause a hot-start problem? I did run the wiring through a 30 amp relay.
 
If the dui is "good" and it has an adequate switched b+ feed from the ignition switch, it won't create any cold or hot start issues.

Review all the information in our "electrical" sub-forum regarding the bulkhead connector syndrome. Also verify that all wiring installed on the oem starter relay/solenoid is in excellent condition. Then..., install an auxiliary starter relay in the engine bay as described in this thread:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...pgrade-remote-starter-relay-installation.html
 
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