Cold Start Problem

[grahamjohnson54]

I have a 1973 scoutt II with a 304. I recently installed a start em up kit with a remote solenoid in an attempt to fix hot start issues. I have an msd blaster coil. If I go out and the engine is cold and try to start it will crank over and run and then die. This will happen two or three times. I have my choke wired open waiting for part. If it takes three or more times to get it running it will sometime act like the battery is dead clicking noise, but then start or if I let it sit for a minute or two will start. Once it is warm it will start fine but sometimes gives 1 or two clicks before firing off. I can then drive it all day with no issues. Any ideas. Thanks

 

[Dealbreaker74]

You have two problems here:

first is your (lack of a functional) choke. No engine is going to start properly without one. Depending on the ambient temperature, a functional choke can kick in even when you restart a fully warmed up engine. Once that's solved, you'll be a happier guy.

The other problem is the starter. The remote solenoid does not sound like it solved your problem. Look closer at the main battery cables. The long positive cable is barely adequate from the factory. If its corroded at all, or frayed, replace it. Check the ground cable too. It should be attached to the block (or a bracket bolted to the block). If there is any corrosion there, clean it with a wire brush and rebolt things. 12 volts doesn't bridge gaps or power through wasted connections. You need a clean, thick gauge (I like 1 or 0 ga) path to the starter. If you still get a click, then look at the battery. But the fact is, a clicking solenoid caused by a bad battery is not going to get better as you try to start. Look at the cables and see what you find.

 

[Scoutboy74]

The inoperable choke is the main reason why you need multiple start attempts to keep the engine running. A cold engine needs temporary choke influence.
The other issue is electrical in nature. Since you added a new gizmo to the equation, I'd double check all your wiring junctions and terminals to ensure that everything is clean and tight in a methodical fashion from the battery...to the remote solenoid...to the starter solenoid...to both sides of the bulk head connector...to the amp gauge...to the fuse block...and to the ignition switch. You might consider having your battery surface charge and load tested if it has been in service for awhile. Also consider having your alternator output tested to make sure that your battery is being fully charged when the engine is running.

 

[Chip Nimmons]

There is a wire that feeds 12v to the coil on a points system. It connects to the starter usually. You might have missed it during the change. It's designed to supply extra current only while the starter is engaged.