clutch issues

62international

New member
Hey guys, I seem to be having a big problem with my clutch.. It wount disengage. Im about 90% sure I need a longer slave cylinder actuator pin. I was really hoping that maybe you guys had a longer one for less than the $60 that "other" places want.
Fyi its a 62 Scout with the 152 and 3 speed transmission.
 
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I just built my own out of an IH head bolt. Ground the head side down on 2 sides so it was as thick as the original push rod (1/4"?) and flat, drilled a hole in the center of my newly flattened area, cut to a longer length, rounded the end, and bam, there it was. Cost $0, time approx 30 mins, satisfaction of a working clutch, priceless!:dita: hope this helps.
 
The oem clutch push rod worked just fine when new, though the weirdass angle that the girling slave was mounted could have definitely been improved upon. I'm working onna prototype bracket for that now that we May end up offering as a service part along with a set of wilwood master and slave assembly for s80 and four cylinder s800.

But your clutch release problem is not related to the push rod unless your push rod is bent, that is very common.

The problem is...your throwout collar and throwout fork are worn way beyond limits.

The "throw" of the s80 clutch release is very poorly engineered, the travel of the girling slave does not match the travel of the girling master, and the leverage of the throwout fork doesn't match anything! Those parts didn't work worth crap on any british vehicle back in the day either!

But we can make this work properly, just like when it was new.

I "recondition" the clutch throwout fork where the tips are worn down. And those tips have caused two badly worn "divots" in the throwout collar. And most likely the oilite bushing in the throwout fork is worn out along with the pivot bolt. None of these parts are available new. But we do offer reconditioned parts that will work as new.

In order to service this assembly, the transmission and bell housing must be removed. Ya wanna replace the clutch disc (at least), and the pilot bearing and throwout bearing at the same time. And rebuild the master and slave cylinders unless they show no sign of any fluid leakage.

Call Jeff at ihon and tell him ya need a reconditioned clutch throwout set for a Scout 80. Then he'll generate an order to me for the stuff and I'll drop ship directly to you. There will be a core charge for your used parts which must be returned if ya want a credit for the cores! I have cores right now that are ready for reconditioning, just place the order!

The set will include a reconditioned throwout fork, collar, and revised pivot bolt.

Here's a pic of one tip (there are two) of a badly damaged fork, yours will look like this one (or worse). The throw out bearing collar will likewise have two divots worn in the slot that match the worn fork tips. Between the two worn parts, all your clutch slave travel is now gone.

If...ya extend the push rod, you will most likely get a few more miles...but then the clutch fingers and cover are going to eat completely though your throwout fork and it will break into pieces, possible get caught in the flywheel and trash everything inside the bell housing. Extending the push rod is just a juryrig that will fail!
 

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That sucks. I really dont wanna have to drop that transmission again. I just put an engine in the truck but like a dork I didnt even look at the transmission much. How much do you think this is gonna cost me?
Also, I dont know if it makes a big diff. Or not but I just bought the clutch master cyl (willwood from summit) and a slave cyl from forklift suply company. I know they dont leak.
 
that sucks. I really dont wanna have to drop that transmission again. I just put an engine in the truck but like a dork I didnt even look at the transmission much. How much do you think this is gonna cost me?
Also, I dont know if it makes a big diff. Or not but I just bought the clutch master cyl (willwood from summit) and a slave cyl from forklift suply company. I know they dont leak.

Call Jeff at ihon for parts costs and shipping.

If you juryrig a longer push rod, the throw out fork will be consumed by the clutch cover. Then ya got nothing but a pile of scrap and no core parts.

It'll start off making an intermittent scraping sound in the bell housing like the throwout bearing is going bad. Then the whirring sound will get louder and more constant. Then it'll grenade. At that point you May be looking at a used bell housing, having the flywheel surfaced and a replacement ring gear installed, a new clutch set, a used replacement dust cover (if ya can find one) and a reconditioned clutch throwout set.
 
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